Mark Maras

I'm not familiar with the 12 turn down method but assuming the float levels are OK, the problem appears to be heat soak and or vapor lock. Common in warm climates and a problem that Nissan tried many things to resolve. If your carbs are 3 screw round tops you may have engine coolant circulating thru the carbs. Many have eliminated that feature to try to improve the fuel overheating. @siteunseen Other attempts have been an FI fan that came on later models, 280 Z style hood vents and in extreme heat , pulling the hood release to allow hot air to escape from the engine compartment. I wish I had a definitive answer for you hopefully others in hot climates will chime in. We don't get a lot of these problems living in the rainy NW.

I think you're on the right track. Is the stock heat shield in place under the carbs? I'm curious about your float levels. A higher than normal float level could exacerbate the flooding. How many turns down are the mixture screws, what color are the plugs and how well does it run when it's not flooding?

My guess is low voltage to the horns. Check the voltage at the horns and the horn circuit in the fuse block. There's probably a poor electrical connection in between those two components.

TDC is halfway between when the piston stops rising and starts dropping. There's a few degrees of crankshaft rotation while the piston isn't moving.

Could be worse. We could be using the Cubit.

The folks on the RX7 forums will be interested in the headlight bushings. I bought a set in New Zealand a few years back. They're not easy to find and are very much in demand.

4 screw carbs set at 2 1/2 turns at sea level, I found that leaning them out 1/4 - 1/2 turn at elevation worked perfectly.

I like it.

How much horsepower does it have?

It's their own narcissism that drives them to "obtain" positions of power over others. It is a PERSONALITY DISORDER!

I think the defroster change occurred in mid 71. My early 71 has vertical lines, and I just sold a late 71 with horizontal lines. I believe they were both original.

Narcissistic Personality Disorder. A brief look at those that rule the world. We all have some of it. Some more than others. An exaggerated sense of self importance A sense of entitlement and require constant and excessive admiration Expect to be recognized as superior even without achievements that warrant it Exaggerate achievements and talents Preoccupied with fantasies about success, power, brilliance, beauty or the perfect mate Believe they are superior and can only associate with equally special people Monopolize conversations and belittle or look down on other people they perceive as inferior Expect special favors and unquestioning compliance with their expectations Take advantage of others to get what they want Have an inability or unwillingness to recognize the needs and feelings of others, lack of compassion Be envious of others and believe others envy them Behave in a arrogant or haughty manner, coming across as conceited, boastful and pretentious Insist on having the best of everything Become impatient or angry when they don't receive special treatment Have significant interpersonal problems and easily feel slighted React with rage or contempt and try to belittle the other person to make themselves appear superior Experience major problems dealing with stress and adapting to change Feel moody and depressed because they fall short of perfection Have secret feelings of insecurity, shame, vulnerability and humiliation

Very nice. My spacer would have been an 1/8" of duct tape.

The weak idle may be caused by the float chambers being topped up with gas. It will run rich until the fuel level drops below the tops of the jets.

My experiences with SUs is limited to Hitachi 4 screw, round tops and MGB SUs. Neither used unequal length float pivot arms. I've heard the theories (G forces affecting the fuel level in the float bowls) behind the "improvement" but in over twenty years of very spirited driving I never encountered a problem. If I couldn't source another short eared cap, I'd redrill the long one and use it. The RAF in WWII solved a similar problem with a simple device they named Miss Tilly's Orifice in honor? of the inventor.

The visible rust is about 10% of what's really there. 90% is hidden. There may be a reason behind the dealer not having enough time to put it on a lift. I wouldn't consider it until I could look it from all angles.

They have a website too. Phone # 503 505 6200

Confirmed by the gentleman who made WD1 - WD39

Use a torch tip file to clean the small holes in the tube. The crankshaft will have to be turned as you slide the pan back and down. Pull the spark plugs to allow the engine to turn over easier.

The lumpy idle and surging is a sure sign it was running lean as something in the EFI was failing.

Are the two mating flanges parallel to each other before bolting them together?

Wait a minute, the earth can't be flat and hollow unless we're living on a bagel.

@wheee! Have you considered fabricating a couple of pieces to extend the drip rails (rain gutters on both sides of the hatch) that stop a few inches short of the rear of the car? Easy to do and they would stop water from collecting on the hatch latch panel.

Ah, memories of a Z in the snow. Four wheel drifts were a lot of fun until the snow got too deep.

Looking much better. Are any of the hoses touching the bodywork? I can't tell looking at the pics. If you've inspected the fuel pump wire insulation, it looks undamaged and there's no green patina on the wire ends, I'd leave it alone. It's always a good idea to keep the wire connections clean.