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Pochie45566

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About Pochie45566

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    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    Eugene

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  1. Hey guys, my wiper motor gave out while driving my Z home in the middle of a huge rain storm. Was a terrible time getting her home safe and never want to do that again. So I started the Honda motor swap, but once my center wiper linkage came off, I can’t figure out how it went on in the first place. I feel like I am missing some parts. Anyone know how this thing goes back together? Is there a section of the FSM I am missing?
  2. Pochie45566

    What kind of headers are these?

    Well... Nike seems to think I have trouble at least... hahahah if I see any header for $50 let alone a header + midpipe I’ll snag you it 😏
  3. Pochie45566

    What kind of headers are these?

    That makes much more sense, they were pulled off an e88 head 260z and are in pretty good condition so I am going to throw them on my n42 head 280z. They are square port but it shouldn’t matter that much, I’ll just get a 260z gasket. I don’t see any problems with this fitment do you? Since they sell the same header for the e88 as they do the n42. I stopped looking for them on the MSA site after I saw the collector was a bit further back than all the MSA ones but I can see the design is quite similar
  4. Pochie45566

    What kind of headers are these?

    They also have these tabs above each exhaust port, not sure what they’re for.
  5. Pochie45566

    What kind of headers are these?

    Got these off craigslist for $50 including the midsection of pipe with it. Was just wondering what kind these are and if they look to be any good. I think the midsection is home made, just by finding a newer sticker on the piping. Think they’ll be decent?
  6. Pochie45566

    Not your usual no heat/defrost issue

    Ran through all the connections and they are correct. Ok so I do NOT have vacuum after the first magnet valve. I have 8 volts on that connector (top two in the picture) is 8 volts correct and I need to get a new magnet valve or am I looking at a wiring issue?
  7. Pochie45566

    Not your usual no heat/defrost issue

    I traced it back to where vacuum is lost. At those two little solenoids I think? I’m not sure what they do to be honest but just before them I have vacuum then after then I do not. Do these need to have 12v at them?
  8. Pochie45566

    Not your usual no heat/defrost issue

    The brake booster check valve? Not sure how to test it. Well I gotta start hunting for vacuum leaks in the engine bay it seems. I’ve already done some checking around I can’t see anything obvious. I’ll start looking.
  9. Pochie45566

    Not your usual no heat/defrost issue

    Funny thing is all my vacuum lines were re done in there. I’ll check around in there. How many psi should you have going out of the vacuum tank?
  10. Pochie45566

    Not your usual no heat/defrost issue

    Hey guys, I had an issue with my 78 280 where the defrost didn’t work and I had no heat. I knew my heater core was plugged up. So I took my dash off, ready to do a heater core swap with a 01 escort described here on the fourms. That all went well and the heater core is in. But before re installing the dash I decided to test it, but the problem has changed. There is still cold air coming out of the center vents. But I stick my hand down into the defrost tube and I feel hot air! So I felt the heater core tubes and it’s getting coolant just fine. And according to the attached diagram when the heat is on, only the floor vents and Defog is supposed to work, but air is still flowing from the center. So doesn’t this mean the mode door isn’t working? If so what can I do to start troubleshooting the mode door. I know it’s vac actuated. Is it possible that it is because the dash isn’t installed?
  11. Pochie45566

    Rough idle when cold - Running rich

    I grabbed my old one and twisted it, a little resistance. Now the slider doesn’t really want to turn. There’s only really 180 degrees of motion for that thing to turn without feeling like it’s going to snap. Which makes sense, the bi metal is just flat. But when it is fully turned clockwise, the slider is open say 1/3. Which isn’t much more than it was originally. But ive never adjusted one like this before, tell me your results of adjustment on yours using that method when you have a minute.
  12. Pochie45566

    Rough idle when cold - Running rich

    Maybe a more detailed description of the issue will help. And I do not have a secondary pickup coil if I’m correct Upon cold start it idles at 1k for 1-2 seconds then starts to drift down to around 600, bogs, and surges. Once warmed up the idle sits at 750 and runs perfectly with no problems at all. It has no problem starting in the cold at all, almost always the first crank. I have 12.5 volts at the AAR connector and the AAR does close slowly when voltage is applied. Shouldn’t it just be a matter of adjusting the AAR? But it doesn’t seem to adjust or I just don’t know how to do it. Thanks, silly mistake, this is starting to get at my nerves and I forgot I didn’t have AC for a minute 😂
  13. Pochie45566

    Rough idle when cold - Running rich

    There are these two hoses, one coming from the top of the rad and the other going to the firewall that are not attached to anything, not sure what they’re for. one going into the firewall is on the left (in both photos). Rad one should do anything but also confuses me because it’s not in the FSM diagrams. Then again it is a new rad. The hose on the left I can’t find in any diagrams or photos either. Probably unrelated but just shooting a shot.
  14. Pochie45566

    Rough idle when cold - Running rich

    New known working AAR has been installed. However the same issue remains. I thought it just may be in need of adjustment also? Here is my adjustment process: Open up stone cold engine, remove AAR, hold slider open, loosen adjustment nut, push slider back further than original position, tighten adjustment nut. But the AAR moves back to its original position as if nothing was changed. Adjusting the idle fuel mix screw on the AFM doesn’t seem to do anything and I don’t think a vacuum leak is causing this because would that not be a fast idle? And it runs great and idles about perfect around 700 when warmed up. If I remember right, vac leaks after the throttle blade cause a lumpy low idle and ones before cause a high idle. Here’s a photo of my AAR slider after being stuck in the freezer for a good while. Should I be looking at ignition now? Thanks for all the guidance, I’m enjoying learning about all of this.
  15. Pochie45566

    Rough idle when cold - Running rich

    I followed adjustment instructions from this website, http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm, and put it back on the car, idled much better but idle got too high after a while because it was not closing. I had my idle sitting at about 1000 when cold which is where id like it if not a bit high. But once I was up to temperature, the AAR was still open about half way. Going to apply 12 v I know is good then see if it closes then.
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