• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Pochie45566

  • Rank
    Active Member


  • Map Location

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hello! When I test my AFM air temp sensor, it comes back at 170 ohms, which is way too low. I looked through my spare parts and I found an old AFM with part number A31-622 420 Would this AFM work in my 78?
  2. problem solved! I guess my spark just wasn't strong enough. I did test for spark and it was there but it mustve been weak. I pulled the distributer cap to find a small amount of moisture and the points had been corroded. Cleaned em off with a file and she started right up.
  3. well bad news friends. I drained some of the gas from the fuel lines and let it settle. No water in the gas. What next? Efi diagnostic?
  4. Smart! There is a drain plug on bottom of gas tank I think? I will maybe drain 1/2 of the tank and fill back up. How would I get the existing gas out of the fuel lines? Maybe pull the line going to the injectors then crank it over?
  5. I tested the spark by pulling spark plug boots and holding screwdriver 1/8th inch from the block and it had spark there. Im not sure if that means a whole lot, but spark is present. that ignition module is under passenger size dash correct? I will try squirting fluid in through vac hose tomorrow. Im confused on why the car was running fine when it was cold.
  6. It is pretty high humidity here in Oregon. I got like 1900 Ohms which was pretty close to what the EFI manual wanted. I tried unplugging it and starting the car but that didn't work either. I did try squirting some carb cleaner into the intake manifold through the line connecting the cold start air valve into the manifold but it didn't start doing that either.
  7. I filled up the tank before I left it and I put a fuel stabilizer in it. How could I go about testing? I pulled the efi harness and tested the coolant temp sensor according to the manual and it checked out. I was thinking water in the lines too. How do I go about getting it out lol
  8. Hi, I didn't drive my z for three months, so I put a car cover and tarp on it and let her set for a bit. I came back to a very moldy Z car. Lesson learned, she's going in the garage next time 😭. I cleaned up the mold and started her up, started like I never left as was running great. I let her run for about 10 minutes, and then the idle started to get lumpy and it was surging. I went on a drive around the block and it had very little power and consistently wanted to die. I parked it and tried to start it back up and now she won't start at all. I have gone through the EFI bible a good bit, tested all the injector circuits, tested the water temp sensor, cold start system. I checked for spark by putting a screwdriver in the boot and holding it near the block. I have 36 PSI of fuel pressure. I checked some of my relays, I think they are working. I wasn't sure which one was responsible for what but most of them seemed to be clicking. When I hold a screwdriver on the injector I do not hear it click, so I presume they aren't firing? I also pulled the plugs and they did look like they had a good bit of carbon on them, but my z has always run a bit rich. I'm not sure what to look for next. Any ideas?
  9. I followed every component check in the efi manual and used their charts to determine if the component was functional or not. Heres a screenshot of the test i used to check idle functionality of the TVS i have no backfiring, misfire, or hesitation that is common with late timing. but I will grab a light and check it.
  10. The injectors? When pulled they have no buildup. They have a green ring around the outside. Not sure that you are looking for there. What is TVS? I have checked the TPS. I checked every component check in the EFI bible related to running rich. They all appear fine. I get 11-15 MPG and am running NGK r plugs
  11. Previous owner did new fuel lines and new injectors, and I don’t have any reason to believe there are any leaks. But I do always keep a fire extinguisher in the back haha. The black spots are just behind the exhaust pipe tips. I am using ngk r plugs. Also on WOT sometimes black smoke comes out the exhaust. I appreciate your help, I’m just a bit confused on what steps to take next.
  12. It had always smelled like gas, got bad mileage, and leaves black spots on my driveway. I did put fresh plugs in then go drive and they were black. Im just simply more motivated to fix this issue now that the nice weather is out and my garage isn’t freezing😁 This is not a sudden problem, I’m sorry I described it to be that way. Zedhead, I’m getting around 11-15 MPG
  13. It runs well now, just smells like gas and gets horrible mileage but I will try unplugging the sensor and seeing what happens. Should I set my AFM back to stock? Yes the filter is in good shape. Pretty sure is Nissan factory. Could be from a different car though. I have no idea. Any way to check?
  14. yes i compared them to the chart and they are all within spec, the CSV does not leak. i pulled it out and started the car and let it run, no gas came out. I have a working afm with the factory setting mark and when I set it to that it just runs even more rich. What steps should i take to check to determine why my plugs are getting carbon fouled if it may not be the mix? I should add that I leaned out the AFM a lot. It does not idle correctly now so I set it back. And this was not an all of a sudden issue, it’s always run pretty rich.