Mark Maras

A few years back my son's 81 RX7 caught fire while sitting in the driveway. Left side of the dash, electrical. If I'd had a glove next to the extinguisher, I wouldn't have gotten blisters from reaching through flaming dripping plastic to reach the hood latch. I was headed for the battery to disconnect it. I think a glove is a great idea. Not all car fires are gasoline. I've also wished I had a hot glove when doing roadside repairs on a hot engine. BTW, we saved the car. We had to replace the dash and rebuild the wire harness one wire at a time. It's his daily driver now.

A very primitive, but effective, method to source very poor connections and short circuits is temperature. Often you can feel the heat buildup in the connection with your fingers. Be careful though, things can get hot enough to raise blisters in a very short time, especially if there's a short circuit. I usually do this test first to see if there is anything obvious.

What type of plastic did you use? My son just built a 3D printer and I'm nudging him toward recreating some Datsun parts.

That engine is fueled by upsidaisium. The metal munching mice got the rest of the car.

I've got a couple of tanks that have loose nail head connections. Does anyone have a method to tighten the loose nail head connections or is best to just seal it up with some sort of fuel resistant goop?

This one appears to be in exceptionally good shape. Too bad about the color changes inside and out but a solid, numbers matching 70 will bring a tidy sum. If you consider $20,000 plus, a tidy sum.

If it is to be driven often, I'd go with the 918 orange. Everyone loves it, it's easy to repair and I wouldn't have to deal with flake or pearl. If it is to be garaged and shown as Z porn, Aston Martin's Madagascar Orange would be stunning on a Z.

And hopefully a spotter too. Be safe.

Yes, it does make sense. Start looking in the rear for fuel line grommets, weather stripping and tail light gaskets that are leaking. These cars are notorious for sucking exhaust into the car.

If the paint is the original yellow, it probably is a Zap edition. As always, body condition still is the main factor. It looks like one hell of a deal but it could be a high priced parts car too. Referencing the member map, we have at least six members in Eastern Washington.

Looks like a perfect part to reproduce with a 3D printer.

Does it run and drive well? Regardless, if the body is as good as the owner claims, it's worth it. Good luck.

No sleep mask ads on mine. Somewhere, someone thinks I want to buy a new full size pickup or should. I haven't searched for anything remotely close to a new vehicle of any kind. Something tells me you haven't searched sleep aid products. The ads on the right side of the screen seem to be linked to companies that I've done business with. I get a lot of Guitar Center ads on the right. @MikeI have used that G.C. link to purchase an expensive harmonica on line. I don't know if that boosted revenue for the club. (I hope so) I don't know how that whole system works. If the purchase did boost revenue is there a way to expand the quantity of links so we can add to the income?

I agree. But aren't you going to miss the fuel injection?

Beautiful. Soooooo close.

Anyone remember that Datsun stripe package? New to me. Maybe an East coast dealer package. Now I'm curious where and when the Zap stripes were originally installed. Factory? Dealer? Different stripe package in different countries? Pinning down factual info on these cars is like herding cats.

Good eye Cliff. I think you're right. The darker shade of yellow in the engine bay looks original. If decals are available, changing it back to a Zap would add to the value.

Unless you LOVE the Cherokee trade it. Agree with Zed. Around here you could probably pick it up for $6,000 - $7,000 if the body is good. $4,000 - $5,000 if it's only fair. The Z will gain a lot more value over the years than the Cherokee. Now if it was an old Toyota Landcruiser, I might have to give it more thought.

Hadn't thought of it from that perspective. Makes sense.

Thanks @Zup. Don't have my Z on the road yet to try it. You can bet the A/C Delco FM oil is what is going into it tho. I'll use it in the RX7 too.

Thanks, I think I understand now. The ring needs a couple notches on the bottom side so the tabs can move up and down to lock and unlock the cap. Seems straightforward enough if you don't mind altering the orig ring.

I was curious if anyone had modified the cap or ring. I don't have a locking cap to look at but I'm assuming the tab width on the cap is the problem. Looking forward to your mod.

I've been watching that one. He has the front torn down. "See other items", lists the steering column, cross member and the rad. support. If anyone is interested, I live near Happy Valley. I haven't figured out how to contact him.

Jim Was the trans exhibiting any symptoms that might be improved with different oil? I'm still trying to figure out if I needed to change my synchros back in 75 or just change brands of gear oil. I'm leaning more toward the oil as time goes by.

I'm not sure. I got curious about that when I looked at the pics of @RedBird. She's a 76 and has the non-vented hood. I'd take a guess at the year but knowing Z's that would be useless. I think it would take VIN #s to narrow it down.