kickstand80

Nissan Stanza FPR has very close specs to the 280zx

If you have popping going on then you have something really out of spec. If everything is working as it should, there will be no lean popping. I have considered removing my cylinder head temp sensor and using a variable potentiometer like this: https://zcardepot.com/products/variable-resistor-for-fuel-injection-mod-280z-280zx That way you go rich to start the car and lean it out as it warms up. If you have a Air/fuel ratio meter you could nail it down perfect while cruzing

You can get a gasket material set at Orilleys. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/fel-pro/oil--chemicals---fluids/adhesives---sealants/gasket-material/33e43ac38f2f/fel-pro-gasket-material/fel0/3060/v/a/6681/automotive-truck-1987-nissan-d21-pickup?q=gasket+material&pos=0 Has everything youn eed

Just wanted to say thankyou to ea6driver for the parts. Very easy to work with and all parts worked. I purchased the Thermo-time switches and all were functional.

#1 is the switch that turns of the "Hair Dryer" aka injector blower. It is mounted in the thermostat housing #3 is the hi engine coolant temp switch. It disconnects the power to the distributor and shuts down the engine due to overheating. It is mounted in the heating plate under the Aux AIr Regulator #5 are coolant temp sensors but not for any Z car. The oval connector was not used until much later #4 is an O2 sensor #2 are thermo-vac valves. Dont know the difference between them. There may be ID numbers that might give a clue. They were used to limit vacuum to the distributor until the engine was warmed up and also to the EGR on some cars.

When you say "gas" do you mean gasoline or exhaust gas?

Do some research on the carbs. Find a jet kit for them and start dropping the jet sizes. You are way too rich. What are the carbs? What year of car?

I do believe you can get a repair sleeve for that. This https://www.ebay.com/itm/385131109922?hash=item59ab9a5e22:g:dNkAAOSwuu9jLVv1&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8Mmzd8Qx%2BQgKiBCruMq60Ch39qBTre9opXhacRBBgAFVTA4WUV8n9h6E1AHSm71h9%2BzzHHKBzOSkpC3OxETALPdXZcXzTBdUNWYoSuaWQdpiJKPY0QpAvLNNHW7Q%2Fs2fe82M6Y76I3PvmnDrSK4Hk87FrDreNeq2vphqHrt87AXOITO7FFQthAEWned0fpKN5omlIQ5nfNIGK%2BVwA%2FXJoy9q4xwZ6uY3L1bks7RjyCUceDxM1KmgWkoKB9kZPA97q%2FK07Ky%2Ba1X%2Bd8GMQWYQ5fwGy%2BERSyij%2Bo4Vpkgzg2tQICwWIjkVeFU9gt5nyfTX%2Bg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMzPLGqIdh I have used these with great results

If you put it on backward, you can't get the oil pump drive shaft to mesh with the crank gear

I have one, it is for sale for 1 billion dollars or trade for a puppy and world peace.🤪

Lift the rear as high as your jack stands allow. Get a rubber cork from Running or any real hardware store that is the same size as the oring. Or use a shop rag to plug the hole when you get the gear out.

you need to make a puller to get that cap off. Thats why there are 2 small bolt holes in the cap

Good video, bad puns and awkward English language lesson. Does not apply to the s130.

How did you replace the seal? Where did you get the parts? More info please

someone had the cam out of that thing. I see 4 dots on the cam support so they could get the towers back in the correct spot.

Photos of the 74 in ND.

Local yard had one as of last week 1974 260z. Its in Mandan North Dakota. I will see what they want for it and let you know, then the evil S word....................shipping.

Cheers !!!!!!!!!!!! ????????????? Texas? Salt Lake? Experience? Where did you say you are located and what is the year of your car?

You don't drive like my grandma, at age 95 she and her sister got picked up for speeding (95 in a 65) and neither had current drives license! Glad you are tracking down the issue(s). Keep it on the road.

Looks like brass/copper and aluminum. Pull the thrust bearing main cap and check it. It should be the 4th main cap counting from the front. I can't think of anything else that has brass or copper inside the engine. You can see the thrust bearing circled in blue in this photo

Try calling Midwest Transmission https://www.midwesttrans.com/product-information/nissan-fs5w71-5-speed-manual-transmissions They specialize in Nissan transmissions. They did my 81 280zx trans and it turned out great. They may have or make the part.

What is the condition of the magnet in your distributor? They often break but some seem to still function where others don't. It may have some impact on the ability of the coil to pick up the induced A/C signal that the Ignition Module needs to fire.

Check out the first response to your post! AFM and CTS. My 83 gave me 7 weeks of the same thing you just went thru. I purchased the car as a non-running car for 3,000.00 after the PO spent 8,000.00 at 2 different shops trying to get it to run. This is the car and all I had to do was wash it. With there not being any way to test the actual ECU's in these cars it can be a difficult and frustrating road. Mine ended up being the ECU.

Oops, Glad you got it figured out! Free/cheep is always a good fix.

A long time ago I owned a 1967 Oldsmobile and the capacitor inside the distributor went bad and man that car ran like S--T. Spark was jumping all over the place except for where it was supposed to go. Dont rule anything out. . Do you have a timing light that you can hookup to each plug wire and watch the light flash to see if things are consistent with each plug?