siteunseen

EDIT: they could be oem Nissan? I was looking around and the colors are close. Those are Fel Pro valve stem seals too. You'll need one but probably have to buy a set. I'll guess $15 from a chain store?

And the lubrication the machinest use isn't made to sit up. I think that's what happened to mine when I replied "sticky". I bought a head that was never picked up by the owner and although it was wrapped with poly and carboard on the valve end it was still tight or "sticky". I ran the oil pump with a drill on LOW speed and thought I had it worked out. Nope, lash pad came off on the first break-in drive. There's no telling what caused that valve to stick but it did. I'll get in trouble for this but if the $100 headbolts just have one torque I'd reuse them. You should find all the pieces if your gonna do it yourself. The valve keepers especially, there are small

Have you thought about going with the nice shiny ready to mount repops? I bought mine from futofab.com. Others have them, they come out of Vietnam. Oh yeah, he does a Black Friday sale too. Or he did when i bought mine. Shipping is cheaper from him if you live closer to the right coast, MSA maybe for the West. They have sales too plus you get 10% off with your Classiczcars.com nember ID

I'd just rebuilt one too and a lash pad fell of. Lots of noise but no damage. From what I remember the valve train is "sticky" after rebuilding and things need to commingle for the first few miles. Don't throw in the towel! Speaking as a grandson nothing would mean more to me than my Grandad giving me his pride and joy. I got a bunch of fly fishing gear and a couple of guns but that's nothing compared to a Z car. Hopefully it's something simple. Cliff

Find some carbs and you're good with a cut cam on these old cars. An aluminum flywheel and port match performance exhaust is the easiest thing to do for the money. I have a 10lb flywheel on mine and it's like riding a motorcycle without all the hospital, funeral bills.

I put Rewind 16x7s on my 280, no problems. But threw them on my 240 one day just to see what they'd look like and they rubbed up front. Turn the wheel sharp and they rub the bottom edge of the front end on the fender.

This might be it? Enjoy your Holiday. Just a few more days for me. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/ "The OE EFI will NOT tolerate larger than stock cams, (large enough to make any difference one would spend money and time to swap out), and there is no “reasonable” way around it. If you desire a cam for EFI L28, do yourself a favor and steup to aftermarket Engine management which will allow you to tune around the new VE curve the cam delivers and also delete the AFM from the air stream. The stock Z car EFI isn’t tunable enough to compensate for an altered VE curve. I’m sure someone could hack the resistors and caps in the ECU, but with Mega Squirt being so inexpensive and readily accessible now… The OE EFI will barely tolerate extreme exhaust mods and minor head work, (those two items with the stock cam and stock EFI intake manifold don’t alter the VE curve too much and what they do alter we are able to compensate for with a variety of methods). The OE EFI will not tolerate freer flowing intake manifolds. Both of those alter the VE curve drastically enough that there is no reasonable way to keep the part throttle cruise AND WOT in balance. You will have to sacrifice one for the other and at that, if you spend too much driving around in the compromised region of the tune, the tune could be far enough out to actually foul plugs, which means that when get back into region that is correct for the engine, it wont run right due to fouled spark plugs. In summation, if you have the stock EFI, keep the stock cam and stock intake manifold. If you desire an intake manifold and/or cam change be sure you also have an alternative engine management system that allows the end user to tune and make use of what the cam and intake manifold brings to the table in performance gains."

It's an EFI car right? If you smell fuel you have a cracked fuel hose somewhere or the cold start valve is fouled up. You shouldn't smell fuel on the EFI, 1975 and up. I would take a plug cap off a plug, stick an appropriate sized Phillips head screwdriver up inside and hold it close to some metal while cranking the key/starter over and look for spark jumping from the screwdriver to the closest metal bolt head you can find. Turn off the lights and you may see it without getting a shock.

I'm going to do a FB Marketplace que for car lifts. I like to be able to stand up the day or 2 after working on mine, ramps and jacks aren't quite enough for me now. Just jacking the front end up helps my back, just doing simple stuff but I want to do the underside too. Now if I could just stop sitting stuff on the fenders.

Is that resting on the tires? It looks like it does. Air compressor lifts it? I like this lift. Thanks for the info and pics. Here's where I think it's on the front and rear tires instead of any metal on the Z.

A potential meeting of the minds? I'd buy a ticket to get in on some.

Sounds like something that would be best to come out of Oregon with a jar of jelly.

They're not a shiny as I remember mine being. How long since the car has been run? Nissan used chrome moly from the factory so it should be slick and more shiny in my opinion. Take your thumbnail and go up down all the holes and see if you find any scractes, gouges. Your fingernails shouldn't get caught on anything. You can get some rags and lacquer thinner and clean those holes of the carbon. Be sure and take the oil pan off or drain it for sure before cleaning. This pic looks odd, the carbon build up on that one side. The scraper ring should keep them clean. I'm guessing that engine hasn't been run lately ?????

Moly faced rings get the smooth hone. Iron gets the cross hatch from what I remember. Agree with the compression test first though but it sounds like you've pulled the head already.

I used to use a Sharpie and write the contents on the Ziploc baggie. That wears off fairly easy so write the contents on a small piece of paper and drop it inside the bag. Made my rebuild easier to put back together when the time came. Nice looking early '72. Glad you're here on the best forum. Cliff

Everything else is just an acquaintance.

I'm a forum princess and should be treated that way.

Or...I could title it in Alabama with a bill of sale written on a Burger King bag, pre 1975 no title required just a bill of sale. There's a lot of stolen Northern cars down here still. My Dad said it was rampant in the '70s thru early '80s. My '72 was tiltled with a hand written bill of sale on back of a packing slip. Carried that to the Courthouse and paid $20? then got an Alabama title in my name in a couple of weeks.

Well that's convenient as hell! I'm only finding Amsoil though, no Red line.

There's a lot of fakes out there too.

@Av8ferg did you grab those at that junkyard you showed us?

It matches pretty close to @five&dime 300ZX build.

Mines a tail of caution as to how bad they can get with just rotten gas after 10 plus years of sitting in a barn. It cleaned up after reading and looking at great phots on Blue's Tech Tips.

Does this look close to safari gold to anybody else? It's the closest I found at the paint store. Going to paint my front door on the house with this in a satin finish. Thanks for any opinions.

I bought my 69,xxx booster from amazon.com and only had to paint it black. Works great on my early '72.