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My car used to take awhile to crank but my floats were way shallow. Now that they're right the filters stay full and it cranks on the 3rd try everytime after sitting for a month or 2. I've got to find out if the mechanical pump allows fuel to pass through when it's not operating. Seems like it would so I need a safety someting or another. I need to figure the cost and effort of the oil sender vs inertia switch. I'm thinking there may be away to have both pumps and only use the electric one when the other one goes out but then why even waste money on another mechanical pump. I've got a couple of block off plates and my car is not stock anyway. OR...go down the road and spend $35 for a new mechanical pump. The one I have now just went out after 6 years.

My only unanswered question that I can't find definitive answer to is run the electric pump out of the tank then through the mechanical like OE with no regulator or safety switches. Seems like if I flipped the car over the mechanical pump would be the dead end but it runs off the cam so no safety switch needed. More reading to do.

I hardly ever drive my 240 but when the weather is so nice I can't stay inside, and "all work and no play makes Jack a dull boy". So I've driven it some but after sitting so long I think the mechanical pump must have dried up and cracked the diaphram or whatever makes it work. Anyhow it died on me yesterday. Lucky me has a good neighbor because he has such a good neighbor. I called him up and told him where and what to bring me so I could get the car off the side of the road. An old low pressure pump I've had for years to transfer gas from here to there and my tool bag. Oh yeah my best testing tool, about 15ft of speaker wire with alligator clips on both ends. Didn't take long to hook it up and get it home. Now I'm researching trying to decide if it's possible to have both mechanical and electric. Pretty sure it is, I'll figure it out. Long story short...my thinking is the mechanical pumps don't like being left alone for very long.

I lost my dash lights and did this to fix them. Flipping those plates over made them like new. https://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf

Sounds like loose or dirty ground somewhere but that would be too simple. My horns did that before and I just filed the grounds up nice and shiny and it scared me when I pushed the horn pad. Never heard them so loud since owning the car. Hopefully it's something easy, good luck.

You are a faster typer than me! But I literally just woke up like 15 minutes ago. It's raining here so long boring day.

You're time was well spent! That looks great. Seems like I read someone using a tire tube cut into a strip around the fuel filter holder thingy.

It's a Daughter selling it for her Mom whose husband apparently passed away from what I read. My youngest sister made similar mistakes selling my Dad's car on B.A.T. Her mother thought the car was worth $25K. After fees they got $13K. I got $0 and knew the car better than anybody except my Dad. But greedy women do stuff like that.

You'll find half the pan bolts are taller too. They go through the 2 pieces.

15x7 on my 240. They look good and fit the wheel well without looking bug eyed.

My Dad got me started using rubber tubes that were yellow and blue. I think they were Good/year but he always said they were what the nascar guys used because of the high heat. My Dad who was no pit crew member said they just tightened them down until the crush washer seated down and was tight. I can't find a pic now... Found something similar.

My 240 original receipt from '72 called it "clasping springs". I assumes that means collapsing to lower the car?

It's not just you Euros! I had no clue either.

Larger valves will require larger seats too. And then you'll need to notch the bores on the 2.4 block to accept the larger 2.8 valves.

Motorsports Auto Sales or MSA has the best selection of headers and exhaust to the rear in my opinion. I have their 6to1 ceramic coated header and 2.5" premium exhaust on both my Zs and couldn't be happier. Anything '77 and above will be diamond shaped exhaust ports. The ceramic headers really bring the under hood temp down compared to the stock cast iron manifold. My 280 needed a 20" resonator for a bad drone sound on the interstate, about 70mph. Cost me $20 at my local muffler shop I believe. That's cut into and welded on too. The 2.4 240 didn't have that annoying sound though. You'll get 10% discount with your classiczcars.com membership number too. Goggle "msa header classiczcars.com " for more info.

My guy put the same size seats which happened to be readily available. I had to lap them in myself and that's no nig deal plus actually what you want to do to get a good seal. Talk to your machinest. Make sure he's 50 or 60 at least and knows the L head. My guy has forgotten he claims but did a great job. Said he'd done 100s back in the day. You should also consider the spray bar on the older heads. I run a newer turbo oil pump on mine and it floods the valve train. That's what you want too. Does your e31 cam have holes in the lobe? It shouldn't but could've been upgraded to an oiler cam. Those e31 need to be researched as best as you can. They are old and many mods have been done since '70. Good luck with it, they're scarce as hens teeth kinda of a holy grail for our Zs.

I sure wish there was! I read for hours before I figured mine out but it was worth it. Maybe the block off plate and gasket? But there's a lot more to it than that if you do the hole $^!# and kaboodle.

My e31 had steel seats installed and my guy said they were common size, the Chrysler Hemi uses the same size. Mallory is the brand. It's not expensive to do so I would say do it while you're at that stage.

I'm in the "if they want..." group. Repo guys can get anyting. So with their knowledge and equipment anybodies stuff is steal-able. To add, my car lives in a garage and is never left alone at car shows, isn't parked as a normal car. My Camry is my DD. The only thing more important is my dog.

http://xenonzcar.com/s30/heads.html

Yeah, look at our millitary, they'll take anybody over 18 and pass a physical. I do beleive in the 10% theory but the other 90% seems to set us up for failure.

Headers and an N42 intake off a '75 or '76. Pre EGR.

I agree with you on the free money for the young folks but I've had about 25% taken out of my pay for over 30 years. I pay for public education but haven't any kids. My next door neighbors home school their kids and get some kind of tax refund. I do not get that refund money even though I have no kids. Life sucks then we die they say. Bring it on!

I just caught that. Thanks!

The grinder and their number should be on the front of the cam where the chain sprocket is.