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I followed this write up from @240260280 to install a ZX dizzy on my '72 and keep the tach working. You might find something useful for the '77 dizzy to work the tach? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html Getting your early Z tach to work with the upgrade (Thanks to www.zhome.com)

I've seen one of those. Seems like it uses an air compressor but I don't remember. A mechanic friend had one at his shop. Reverse fluid filling. Here's one I found on the www.com. https://www.autoanything.com/brakes/77A5485A3714372.aspx?kc=GOOGADW&DZID=PLA_g_1776970776_66506501262_5485-3714372_c&utm_source=g&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=1776970776&utm_content=66506501262&utm_product=5485-3714372&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_Lya1eqE7AIVF47ICh3xxAzOEAQYBSABEgKa_vD_BwE

I was going to suggest a ZX e12-80 like I put on my '77 and '72 from Cardone but like you say Bob, NLA.

These cheapo one man bleeders work remarkably well for me. My $.03

I agree Mike. The high end sports car do center and I like it.

At least they didn't do what Honda and Toyota is doing on their sports editions. Centered exhaust! I got a good laugh from what @AK260 said about the electric Z roe. There'd be no exhaust pipes.

My '72 has a deep V for zero at the bottom and each mark after that is 5 degrees coming up as in rotating clockwise looking at it from the front of the car. So I will say the 3rd notch would be 10 degrees coming up if that makes sense. I found the thread that got me straight. It was hard for me to understand but with the help of the forum members I finally got it. Good luck!

Are you asking me to watch this vidya? You know I've got the patience of a rattlesnake right? Which one wins? I'm gonna guess Seafoam... Thank you Greg, Cliff.

New batteries aren't always fully charged. Try an overnight 2 amp charge. Can't hurt...

Good info... https://datsunzgarage.us/borg/ https://datsunzgarage.us

On second thought maybe set the valves to spec first. You won't be running the moror during that process so the carbs are irrelevant. Take the plugs out and write out a "go by" board. Some come up together or damn close and you can do them out of sequence just X them off as you go.

But they cost more.

I guess I would get the carbs balanced first off then if it idles steady set the valves. Then do the carbs again and the timing.

There's an easy way to check part numbers you're overlooking. Amazon.com, rockauto.com, oreillys.com, advanceauto.com, autozone.com all have the option to enter your car. Year, make, model. Once you take 1 minute to do that they will tell you if it fits or doesn't fit. Like adjusting the valves, the feeler gauge fits or it doesn't fit. You have to do some reading wich should only take a minute or two. Good luck with your starter. If you don't want to pay your mechanic and want to save money do the research and install it yourself. Personally I think the Datsun Z is the easiest starter I've ever installed. You install it coming down, most others you must lay under the car and hold them up. It's a real bitch.

I like the speed bleeders too. From what I remember do the fronts then driver's side rear and finish with passenger's rear. That's where you definitely want a speed bleeder.

Here's a spare I have with #16203 on it. https://www.amazon.com/Quality-Built-16203-Premium-Starter-Remanufactured/dp/B000ES9W0M

Yes I did use the cheap walmart oven cleaner then went to hot water spray car wash. You can buy these rubber caps in the plumbing section at Lowe's for just a few dollars. Worked out good for me.

That is period correct. Just tacky. Great looking car though. I'd leave it if it was mine. There's some interior colors in there somewhere. http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html https://zhome.com/History/colors.html Looks like butterscotch with cloth inserts. I've read that was popular in the hot/sunny states.

You can use needle nosed pliers to push in and turn the retaining pins. Then pull both shoes towards you and they'll collapse together and the springs will fall off.

The warranty card and book if they're not tied to a specific car is is pretty much useless. The owners manual if it's from '72 might be worth $20? The reproduction books have brought the price way down.

Thank you all. This is exactly what I needed to read. Now to get started during my driving season.

I have a complete MSA weather seal kit I'm about to start applying to my 240. What, if any adhesive do you guys reccomend? I'll start with the hatch then the doors. Thank you for any advice on this. I've read NONE is needed but hesitant to do that because of other threads I've read that reccomend something black in the channels. Not sure of the product though. Thanks for any advice from experienced applications.

The best stripper I've ever used was made by a local chemical company. It was their "floor stripper" for basketball/gym court floors. When you opened it it had built up pressure and would "poof" out. Super strong stuff that worked on everything. Some things we hit with a pressure washer to get down to the bare. You need gloves and a respirator for the good stuff. I hope you find what works but you won't at a chain store. Call your local chemical company.

I made my on and used the '78 fpr. It has a single inlet and outlet, the return and vacuum. Up until '78 they had two inlets wich wouldn't work with a solid length rail. After I think about it there's just the "in" coming out the windshield end of my rail. I "T" off that to the cold start valve then a hose to the return. It's in this thread below and some comments on the aftermarket fprs. Cliff

@carcrazyken If he will sale it and you're still looking.