Patcon

I posted this in the other thread: Did you check the head and block for flatness? What caused the head gasket failure?

Did you check the head and block for flatness? What caused the head gasket failure?

Are these quarter windows the correct ones for a 240Z???

So I switched gears today. Wasn't really motivated to do anything but finally did (I had Covid a week ago). So I started working on the differential and differential brace to accommodate an LSD diff I drew the transverse assembly member in AutoCAD Then I plotted it out on my big plotter and mounted it to cardboard I also got the bolts for the musache bar back in the chassis. I had asked a year or to ago for torque values but never got an answer so I Googled generic torque values. They're 18mm thread and I assume they're 8.8 so I torqued them at 130#'s with a little blue lock tight. I could have gone all the way up to 200#s supposedly but that seemed like enough. I got the mustache bar hung. It's interesting you can't install it with all the other suspension in the way. I was able to thread the chassis bolts up and down so I didn't have to disassemble the suspension

I wouldn't think it would matter on in/out

I believe those are where the tank vent lines go down through the floor from the vent tank

Alright, points made! Back on topic... Steve do you have an answer off hand? I would have to do some research. Is it at atlanticz?

Looks really good

I believe the bar has some thick sealant stuff between it and the outer skin. I was trying to figure out where your bar could be without the door having been "reskined". Doooh 😉

Is it the same color as before or different ?

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/exhaust-tube-muffler/california I found this diagram hard to read. I couldn't tell what was directly clamped to the cat and what was mounted to the car. I searched for part #66 but it looks NLA

I dont recall ever seeing that shielding. Maybe somebody can post up a picture. You could possibly fabricate a replacement if you knew what the original looked like

So does the cat you bought have shielding on it? Are you looking for the shielding that was above the cat, between the cat and the tunnel ?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,exhaust+&+emission,catalytic+converter,5808

His comment about "if installed on the passenger side, I have been told, you can't see out of it..." is interesting

Not totally. I know it was mis-mixed but I dont know where the grit came from, chemical reaction or dirt...

I bought bullet mirrors years ago which haven't been used yet. The passenger side is a wide view mirror like most passenger mirrors are

So here is where I'm currently at Most of the sealer is off the big surfaces. Still a lot of detail work to do! I just don't think I can get my shop up to temp and keep it there for painting. My shop is concrete filled block walls and floor. Totally uninsulated. There is an incredible amount of thermal mass to try to heat up and hold at temperature when it's 40dF outside. So I think for now I will switch gears and try to work on some other aspects of the car since it's too cold for me to paint. Possibly brakes, differential, drive train or other systems that I can bag up and keep clean while painting. This isn't my preferred method but it would allow some progress while it's cold outside... When I do get back to paint, I have some new blocks to try and some Mirka PSA paper

Yes a spacer looks like a good idea

I used really heavy oils in motors that were noisy or had excessive bearing clearances. I'm unsure sure whether 20wXX oils are the right choice or not. I wouldn't run a 50 weight oil unless I had an engine issue that convinced me otherwise. You oil pressure sounds very normal. so I would run the 10w40 probably. It's more flowable when cold but still on the heavier side. Running a 20w oil when its really cold can cause other issues

Are your oil pressures good? Do you have any excessive engine noise?

I doubt the engineers reversed the reservoir locations for no reason. Not totally sure what it was, but it costs money to retool and redesign parts. It doesn't really happen for no reason

It's probably a brass radiator. Just drain it good and let it air dry. Then cap the open ports once it's dry

The seals on modern electrical connectors are much more robust and water tight

I would think it should function either way but should be corrected at some point. Probably not the source of you brake dragging though. My guess is the front circuit being moved closer to the pedal has something to do with a rear brake circuit failure, but just a guess