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Patcon

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Everything posted by Patcon

  1. I responded in the duplicate thread
  2. I would use seam sealer on the joint from the floor pan to the rocker panel. If it already has weld thru primer on it, it'll be fine.
  3. I would want to tie them together with a bar or two, front to back. I would be afraid of tweaking the body mounts if one frame doesn't roll for some reason
  4. The one Ferg posted is rusty 😞
  5. My last floor I did DIY it was about $0.30 a foot. Today the same material is about $2.00 a foot
  6. On left hand drive cars, the tank is mounted off center towards the passenger side and the spare tire is off center towards the drivers side
  7. I was just shopping for floor epoxy last night. Man, has it gotten expensive!!
  8. If you have MIg & TIG welders then you should be well off. I would try KF vintage for what I would call the upper "frame rail" or the "fresh air channel". See if they can supply it. If not I would talk to a local metal shop about fabricating it. Lastly I would make it myself
  9. I am glad you posted that. I was not thinking of that at all when you said "apron". That level or corrosion there would be a problem for me. That's a really structural piece. It's important for it to be solid and strong at least up to and past the shock tower. If it were me I would replace all that metal, but many people don't have the tools or the experience to do that. Can you weld?
  10. Yes, photos of the pitting would be helpful
  11. I thought the cadillacs had a draw down trunk mechanism? Construction is crazy right now! Go ahead and find the wire, blue boxes and panels or meter base that you need. They can be very difficult to source and may take a month or two to find it all. If you're going to need any interior paint start now trying to find it too. I wanted some concrete this week and one of the plants I use told me I could have some after Christmas!!!
  12. Pretty much finished with 400 dry will wet sand at 600 over the weekend The biggest problem now, is my back is pissed!!! I'm hoping to wet sand this weekend, retape the car and clean up and be ready to spray by Monday. Might spray the car this coming Thursday. We'll see..
  13. I noticed some of the sets were backordered
  14. When I wet sand, I have a wet sanding block I use. It a two sided hard foam. Probably not ideal but its what I currently have
  15. Tabco would be my last choice! I would contact kf vintage https://kfvintagejdm.com/ Many times if they don't have it, they will make it for you
  16. I would buy the panel if it was from one of the reputable panel makers. That panel is not flat! It curves in both directions and is very thin. The seamed edge is also curved, which make it hard to reproduce. It is one of the few areas on the car where I think panel bond would be a great idea. If you're a very accomplished welder, you might be able to stitch in that patch without ruining the hatch, but why risk it?
  17. The guy in the sanding board video made an interesting statement. He says that they start cutting their filler when its soft. They don't let it harden first. I have a cheese grater for that but I find its easy to over cut with the cheese grater. They may even be using 80 grit to do that? I agree, I do so many things now by watching you tubes. Air bags, bmw suspension, etc. Amazing what's out there
  18. That was my thought, that it's possible it slipped through or was somebody connected to a dealership and didn't have it removed...
  19. Blocked some more tonight The little flaws on the roof after they're spot filled I use blue tape to help crispen the body lines. You sand up to the tape. Then move it to the other side of the line and do it again Below the body lines tomorrow hopefully. I probably won't color this weekend because it's supposed to rain and I don't want to fight the moisture. So I will get set up and ready for color. Might color over the Christmas holiday with my new Xmas present paint gun 😉
  20. Weren't they removed at the dealers on import to the US?
  21. So I did watch some videos today. There are evidently a lot of Acrylic boards on the market today. Who knew??? Also he doesn't like hook and loop paper. How about that... Super cool paint job
  22. I agree on the overspray on the data plate. However, they have lots of documentation. The mileage might be able to be established that way. The master and radiator hose, may be recent additions to get it running Unfortunately, it has a sunroof. It does have a hand throttle. If it's original, it would be pretty rare. Dash may be uncracked. Left fender is pretty wavy. Still $21k is pretty healthy for a car like that
  23. I have not. They're very interesting. I am using the 3m set of hook and loop blocks. They have been pretty good but are super hard and the velcro is peeling off of a number of them It appears those come in stikit and hookit versions. I like my purple 3m hookit paper, even though it's expensive. I need to watch their videos. The guy who painted Cody's car taught me to use a paint stirrer wrapped in sandpaper. Which is a similar idea. Really firm and flat. I can't wait to hear a review on these
  24. I suspect there is rust under the coating, bubbling it up. I also suspect muriatic would strip it off one it started getting under it. Put some bolts or rock or something in the tank and gently shake for some extra cleaning action
  25. I block sanded the top of the car to the belt line. Done with 400 on top... A couple of little flaws. One on the right side of the hatch Two small ones on the roof The plan is to do down to the body line and the tail light panel tomorrow
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