Patcon

Yes!

I think he prefers the look of electric fans. No electronic control pf the fans. With the fans on all the time it over cools and warms up too slowly. Without the fans it warms up properly but would overheat with out the fans. Looking for a practical way for control. Most of the time a temperature probe is strapped to the radiator some where. Have you looked for fan switch setups at Summit Racing or Jeg's? I like the idea of using an unused port in the thermostat housing but finding the right device to mount there might be an issue. I believe the threading is BSPT but 1/2" NPT can be made to work

Yes, the three on each side. As I recall there is a little movement in each hole but more in some than others. I also recall the hinge sort of rotates when you push the hood down. Then ighten them up... The other two, I really use for lining the hood between the fenders and cowl

That car might be a really good deal...It was a fun color

I believe I loosened all three, but it's been several years since I have done this

I think a wide band would be mandatory for the swap

Loosen the bolts in the left hood hinge. Remove the light or turn signal. Push the hood down and then tighten the hinge bolts while holding the hood down. See if that helps

All very common rust areas. I like those railroad jacks! 😉

You might want to get Steve's help with some preventive diagnostics before you plug in you new high dollar fuse box. They really shouldn't melt like that...

The wood works better than calipers because you can make several and use them to hold the panel In place while you tighten it down

http://fedhillusa.com/ Cunifer, copper nickel alloy and they are really nice to deal with. A little scotch brite to clean the lines up nice. A nice brake line flaring tool is expensive but a joy to use. There was a recent thread about a less expensive tool that worked good too

I love the look of triples and I have a set I may run. But Im not sure they add a whole lot over SUs other than lower fuel economy

I suspect the fuel. The newer Fuels are designed to atomize easier to make them burn cleaner. So the bowls are just drying out

I use little Blocks of soft wood for gauging

http://www.zcarparts.com/ They give a discount to classiczcar members

I would use Fedhill material and make my own

Is this what you wanted? 15 5/8" "cut an inch" So 14 5/8" x 25.4 = 371.5mm The level is not "level" but extended along the body line

35 years...😉

View Advert 14" mesh wheels I was originally going to use these on my Datsun, but that plan has changed. I would let them go cheap to find them a good home. Otherwise I will scrap them I was going to polish the rims and shoot a hammered gunmetal looking paint on the mesh centers Make me an offer... Shipping is a possibility at the buyers expense Advertiser Patcon Date 12/27/2021 Price $1,234 Category Parts for Sale

1987 My first car purchase. Saved for 2 1/2 years

I think some of those guys don't have an answer for me. It's a unique problem... I would have to replace the sealer with a new can because I removed too much of the liquid from the original can and not enough of the solids. So the sealer might be compromised at this point and the remainder of the can might be too. I also have the issue of trash still. Which is probably a sealer problem. I have a gallon of white base that Finishmaster's gave me to make up for my trouble, which was nice. I had about decide to run white Southern Poly epoxy over the car after I get it clean. Hopefully nothing will lift. I have found with my sanding the roof and quarters could be flatter. That is why I was asking about the acrylic boards. It is a lot of coats and that was always going to be an issue with a white under coat. I might spot prime my sand throughs but there are already a bunch of them. So that might be impractical

I thought the 18" curved would be nice. I thought about getting a 24" straight but there are almost no straight sections on the whole car. Im not even sure the doors are truly straight. Have you seen my thread at autobody101?

Chris, So I was shopping for some new blocks, since I will have to reblock the whole car. They don't have a complete sets but they do have individual blocks. If you were going to buy one flexible block and one straight block, what lengths would you want and why?

That's a good price. I will resist the need to hoard!

Rear brake bias is one of the potential issues with the rear disc brake swap.