Patcon
Subscriber
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Patcon
-
129 Km/h -
I believe current plays a major part. I lean towards more current is shinier but I haven't done anything that makes that conclusive. It would be interesting to know how temperature affects shine. My bath is thermostatically controlled about 117F or so
-
That's funny! If I thought I could get predictable results I would try it.
-
-
Will you leave it Km/H?
-
I totally agree. My biggest thing now is sometimes I get a really shiny plate and sometimes I don't. I have used a lot of brightener, but am not sure if that's the secret or not. Part of it is the way the parts are wired, hung and powered. Someone else's experience does help narrow the process substantially. Also I have found that other Caswell platers are better at troubleshooting than the Caswell forum or support unfotunately.
-
So the car had a turbo engine in it when I got it. I don't know if it ran. This is the fuel tank that was in it. The tanks are a lot thicker than they look. I tried the slide hammer to pull the dents, not happening!. I have another tool to try. I may put a 240z tank in it, since I don't need any of the EFI ports, baffles or sizing. What is the stock feed supply size?? this tank has a 1/2" feed port... Stripped with some airplane stripper
-
This is my first batch out of the barrel plater. They look ok, but some of them burnt. They could also be shinier. The barrel is so slick inside, the material doesn't rotate. It just slides. So I worked on modifying it yesterday. I may try another batch on Sunday
-
Please forgive if I have already posted these, I lose track... This is what you want right out of the tank! the shinier the better! I took a shot at the E-brake cable. I blasted them and degreased them. Then immersed the ends and plated. Then I folded it in half and plated the center springs. I also took a shot at some old master cylinder caps. They turned out pretty good. The corroded cap is similar to what I started with
-
I didn't know that. That would have been nice to know before I tore one down...
-
1989......Almost 30 years! How time flies!!!!
-
Thanks, ammonia is a good tip. I have a car that needs stripping...
-
Center line on the rotisserie pivots is 52.5" AFF (Above Finished Floor). Front bumper mounts up front are 49" AFF. Rear bumper mounts are 47" AFF. The cross bar connecting the ends is 11.5" AFF . The car is pretty neutral like this when it's all stripped...
-
I also made some other modifications to my blasting cabinet. I siliconed every seam I could. I built a dust cyclone out of two 5 gallon buckets which are connected to a shop vacuum. So my cabinet never clouds up. The only downside is the vacuum could be quieter. When the media seems low I just empty the cyclone back into the cabinet. The filter sees very little dust because of the cyclone...
-
Guy, What technique did you use?
-
I added some sealed halogen floodlights in the corners of my blasting cabinet. Also I spaced the glass and mylar sheet up about a 1/2" with a double mesh of metal window screen below it. It helps deflect the media and it stays clear much longer. I would love to have a larger cabinet but the cost escalates quickly with size. another trick is to blast with the shop lights off.
-
-
No members on the map showing near Reno
-
-
-
Yes I do! I could pick your brain on plating too, now that I have done some.
-
Did Norm plate it for you?
-
-
@jalexquijano A word of advise. You are down to just a few advisors here. One main one! If you fail to heed his advise in a timely manner, right away and all the way, he may quit trying too!!!!
-
So the valve cover alone was $300-$500 of the car's value. I agree the car is salvageable but it becomes more economically practical if the VIN is lower
