Patcon

That's quick. Should be lots of fun...

Is that a cometics head gasket? Does that first cam journal look rough or that just my eyes?

Good eye ZH!!!

The E88 also looks like it might have been cut. The casting numbers are pretty close to the edge. Some measurements would be in order there too. Also are the cam towers shimmed on that head?

Solve??? You mean start don't you...

I was gonna get a set of "Float Sync" tools but they're sold out. What is the thread size on the float bowls? I am planning on cobbling something up...

That's a pretty well executed convertible

I bet that makes a Miata really fast!

What numbers are you picking? So I can play along...

I thought you might be running pretty aggressive rates based on the other aspects of the build. I also considered increased camber to get inside but I really don't like that solution for a number of reasons. Having the roller around definitely helps...

It's gonna have to be awful stiff not to rub the tire. Doesn't look like they would be easy to roll either because of the way the fender is made. Might look sharp if some all metal flairs could be made that basically shift the wide flat wheel arch out an 1" or so. Some one good with an english wheel could probably roll them out...

Cliff! That's bad...

I have found that the fuel pump valves in the pump can stick and prevent the pump from pumping

Some paint stripper and some carb cleaner and it might clean up. Carb cleaner will take off most un-catalysed paints. Bead blast after that, if you can, and pretend it never happened...

So I do have the manifolds heating but I have the port coming out from under the thermostat blocked off

That's on the underside of the carb. I will have to look again. I expected it to be on top like the 46mm carbs

Yeah I have noticed ramflo's aren't as common but I like the look. I just don't know which style is correct for the 38mm carbs. One of the problems with looping the hose is the hard line was too long to connect to manifold, so I cut it back before I replated it. So that tee is now gone. I guess the real question is do I need that flow out from under the thermostat into this line?

Sounds fabulous!

I ran some plating last weekend and I ran it at a lower temp. Got pretty good results. Not conclusive... This is a run coming out of the plating tank. Really nice chrome-like results. Might be hard to see in the pics I also tried a little experiment. Sometimes tubes have some corrosion on them that makes them rough and thin. So I broke out the torch and some silver solder This is built up. The end was not wanting to take solder Zinced Overall a good weekend in the shop...

anybody have anything on this???? Also I ended up going with the Triumph choke cables. They work great, but I had to shorten the jacket on the front cable. About half the cost of a set of roadster cables

One of the needles is new from Ztherapy. The other is unknown... might should have bought two... I have another question, there is no port for the vacuum advance. Can I use another port off the manifold? In other words, is there anything special about where that port exits the front carb. The is no booster on Cody's car so I could use that port for vacuum advance and still use the center port for the PCV valve... Also there were a number of water ports near the carbs. Best I could tell water flow was from the head into the manifold then towards the front. The port out of the thermostat housing and the 90 degree tee out of the straight line were tied together with a hose and the other went to the old carb. For now I plugged the thermostat hole and connected the su manifolds to the line that runs around the front of the head. Should I do it differently?

Ok, so I worked on one of the other tanks I have. This is a 240z tank. there is an amazing difference in weight between the 240z and the 280z tank. The 240z tank is maybe half the weight and noticeably thinner. A little aircraft stripper... Great stuff but don't get it on you!! Several large dents on the bottom A few studs going on This tool is really cool. It was $100-120 but when trying to pull larger dents works well. When you pull too hard on a single stud you can get a raised dimple or even tear the stud off. When you get 4 or 5 studs on you can really pull on them with out the raised areas We were banging on this with a 16# or 20# slide hammer. Had to stand over it on the table to do it. I took a piece of rebar and tried to make an extended dolly. It helps some but was hard to position and keep pressure on. If the holes into the tank were only slightly larger I could get my hand in there. This is sort of where I stopped. Not perfect but I will probably skim a few of these areas to satisfy my OCD then shoot some black on it This is a 100+ studs later...

They have floats like this Section through like this I used the dimensions off of pg 5 in the pdf you linked to, but we are still rich with about a 3/4 turn down on the mixture nuts. Starting to run out of room...

These floats are detached and fit pretty snug in the bowl bores. Not really any way for them to pivot...curious...

Another question. I don't know that I have ever heard the answer, why are the front and back set differently?