Patcon

Not very often...

Nobody's got any spares?

Why?

The door will dry even with plastic in place. The door isn't air tight even with the window up. When the window is down there is even more ventilation. If you expose the door panels to moisture they will warp, mold and generally do bad things. I have multiple sets that exhibit this type of damage.

I believe they are #70 here

I need some help I need a few of these brake line holders. I have the locking pieces but don't have enough brake line holders. I would prefer they are not badly beat up. If they have some rust it's not a problem. I will re-plate them here Also I two different styles of mustache bar washers. Which is correct for a 240z? The upper ones with the crenelated rubbers on the bolts are the ones I suspect are correct. If so what are the other ones for? I also need 2 of these. I dug through my whole shop and I can't find these. I am sure I have 3 pairs here but I can't locate them. I need the 2 little pieces that bolt to the bottom of the bar that crosses behind the differential. They hold the rear side of the rear swing arms in place If you have any of these let me know or PM me and we can work out shipping and cost arrangements...

Did you ever do anything with this? I was on a major clean up in the shop today and think I finally found the rear wiper motor...

@nix240z

@Mike

Is it possible the timing has already jumped a tooth?

You have no idea!!! Steve has plated stuff that will probably never see the light of day again. Reproduced tags for the wiring harnesses. Truly a museum class restoration!

Good find...

Oh, some of us might. His previous cars have been really impressive!

Is it me or do the plugs look oily, especially near the washers?

Did you buy that wide band yet? The one we spoke about months ago?

How about this technique? Bolt the switches to the column and unplug them. Take a meter and check for continuity from each wire back to the column. If one "rings out" then figure out where it is shorting. Does that seem like that works????

I don't believe so. He is paying for a very nice interior that he will probably modify. He is paying for a paint job that he will probably have to redo once he adds the flairs, air dam and splitter. He will probably also do extensive work under the hood or even re-power the car. So half of what he is paying for is getting redone. Now he might have to be selective on what kind of car is the right car for this project but I am sure that can be over come. The car he linked to is heavily modded. Stripped interior, all carbon fiber, carbon fiber rear bumpers, SR20DET drive train. If he goes this route, which is fine, he will use maybe 30% of what he paid for up front. If I wanted to build a restomod I would look for a 72 or 73 or possibly even a 260z with minimal rust. A little under the battery tray would be ok if the frame rail is good. A little in the floor would be acceptable. Maybe a little in a dogleg. Frame rails would have to be good and the rockers. If the wheel arches have some rust, who cares. Cut it out on the flare line and close them up. Add the flares and move on. I am sure I could find this car for way less than $16,000. I could get the repairs done professionally and might could even squeeze the finished paint work in there too. Which would put me money ahead of paying 16k up front then adding body work and paint on top of that I mean, I just found with a quick search, a really clean 260 with no rust and a L28 turbo already installed for $10,500...

Either verify with a mechanical gauge or not! At least 4 people have told you, the gauge is not accurate... The advise is free, but from the sounds of it, it has more value than what you have to pay your mechanic. The people on these forums know these cars many times better than almost any mechanic!

If your dash matches close enough in texture then a stock glove box door could probably be made to work. The interior half of the glove box door would be really nice though because the hinges tend to fail over time

What Zkars said ^^^^ Verify first. the gauge is just a guideline. Also I don't think low oil pressure is gonna affect drive-ability. When it does, you'll know it and the engine will die shortly after!

If you are going to cut the wheel wells to run flairs you might as well start with a rougher car. I totally agree. I like some of the restomods that get done but there are better cars that can be used for this type of setup. Really clean cars are getting rarer and will have more value if they aren't heavily modified. Once you start cutting on the car, it's very hard to go back!

He was making a hypothetical. Doesn't matter how much the oil pan holds. Only the level relative to the crank shaft.

Vin is 31626 5/71

I would replace the radiator if you have a spare laying around. Or the radiator cap... I suspect trash from the block has blocked up the new radiator.

Hopefully that will solve the leaking. Does the pinion you have make it read 5 mph fast? If so I would leave it. Nice cushion to have.