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superlen

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superlen last won the day on March 30 2015

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About superlen

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    Prairie Grove, Arkansas
  • Occupation
    Electrical Design Engineer

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  • Zcars Owned
    260z
    280z
  • About my Cars
    77 280z HellFire(TM) digital ECU Test Vehicle
    77 280z parts car (earmarked for turbo test)

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    http://www.rcalproducts.com

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  1. My first thought on the plugs were that they looked pretty good too, but it's often hard to tell with a picture, and everyone's eye is calibrated a little differently anyway. I could easily be persuaded to slightly rich opinions. They certainly don't look far off. I'll add that the stock ECU does it's best to maintain proper AFR during warmup, but the design lacks great accuracy in this mode & would tend to run slightly rich during this period, purposely. Given that your actual CLT temp may/may not be at 180...the plug readings are a little suspect. +1 on what Captain said...ensure y
  2. Physically follow wire 72 from the FIR to where it is supposed to connect to ground. It should run to a ring terminal that is bolted to the frame someplace. I don't remember off hand exactly where it's at in the car. I seem to recall it coming through the firewall in the harness and terminated on the firewall, but don't hold me to that. It could be under the dash. I'll look at one of my test harnesses when I get home tonight and see if I can figure out more details. I have my car tucked away in a shed and can't get to it easily or I'd go find it and report back. The ring terminal will hav
  3. Great!!...you've found a major problem. W72 isn't grounded to the frame like it is supposed to be. There's no way the FIR can work without W72 making a connection to ground. Len
  4. Good idea, Zed! Moozie, Remember we are testing that the pin/wire W72 right at the relay is properly grounded. There shouldn't be any voltage there ever! When you say "I'm not reading anything off of W72" it sounds like you're looking for voltage there. Maybe I'm interpreting wrong... The multimeter should be in volts mode, the Red lead on +12v battery, and the Black lead on W72. When connected this way, we are using the black lead to test if something is grounded. Anything you touch with the black lead that is ground should make the meter read +12v. Touch black to battery negative,
  5. Well...we aren't making fast forward progress, but any information is good information. ? Q1) When you jumped 12v from the battery to W48 and you read voltage "in the cabin"..are you talking about the wires behind the passenger seat going to the fuel pump , or the wires under the dash near the relay, or someplace else? "In the cabin" doesn't help me any in debugging. If your fuel pump was still connected, 12V direct to W48 and you should hear it run. Q2) Did you confirm the gnd getting to the FIR as outlined in Test 5? If not, that would be my next step. We need to confirm if the rel
  6. Matthew , Buy a 280z and learn how to fix anything on it that breaks! It will be old, it will break a little. No worries, you'll work on it. You will fix it. You will learn stuff. At some point one of your friends "NEW" cars will break too...perhaps a waterpump leaking, or serpentine belt adjuster gets weak. You will know how to fix that too. Working on cars is a very important character building experience, and it hones your critical thinking/debugging skills tremendously. You don't need to know how to rebuild a transmission to get through life. However, experienced in diagnosi
  7. I just noticed this thread and wanted to give you a thumbs up on persevering. I don't have much to add as others have been giving you great advice. You're close now. As Zed said once you start feeding the ECU a real coolant temperature sensor resistance instead of an open connection, the fueling will change, but then you can begin to figure out all the other things that have been modified on the engine in the past to compensate. I will add that the AFM position is rotated but shouldn't make a big difference. There is a weight on the flap that is affected by gravity, but the governing
  8. As others have posted, if the ultimate goal is *A* z, then you will be money and time ahead to start with a better donor. However, if you want to fix *this* Z, then I would recommend buying a welder and learning the bodywork. If you completely screw it up....oh well. It wasn't pristine to begin with & you will have learned some bodywork skills no matter how far you progress. If you are going to pay any professional to restore this particular Z, it's going to be pricey. If it has sentimental value, you're stuck.. ? We've all been there. I'll usually pay double for something rusty that
  9. Ok, so no voltage there with flap open...so the FI relay is NOT routing 12V to this wire. Lets see if the relay is getting power to it.. If it doesn't get 12V fed to it properly, it can't pass it along to the fuel pump. (Note: I'm assuming that crank isn't giving you 12V either - you still should test that). -- snip from above Test 5 - Confirm that the FIR is getting a good ground. It is grounded by W72. Place the black lead of your meter on W72 directly at the relay and the red lead on a known good +12V and make sure you read +12V on the meter. If not, check W72 and find where it ge
  10. W48 would indicate Wire 48. *Most* of the time wire 48 would end up a terminal on a connector and the connector will have '48' stamped in it, but this isn't always the case so it is a bit confusing. However, '48' is printed on the green wire...very small in faint yellow or white. ? It's best to work with the wiring diagram printed out in front of you and follow W48 to where it connects. W48 runs to the Air regulator as well as the fuel pump so do this: 1. Locate the two position plug on the air regulator. Note this is the auxillary air regulator, NOT the Airflow Meter (AFM). 2.
  11. Here is a quick guide to how that FI relay works. First some notes: N1- The FI relay (FIR) actually has two physical relays in it (call them X1,X2). N2- X1 provides power to the fuel pump and the air regulator (both the pump and regulator +12V feed are connected together directly INSIDE the FI) When X1 fires, your pump should spin and your air regulator should have power. (remember this note for later when we debug the circuit) N3 - X2 provides power to the ECU, the Dropping Resistors, and the AFM air flow switch(which incidentally is also one of the items that can fire X1
  12. Ron, I'll have to look at the schematics again and see where else that wire runs to. It sounds like you are on the path though. As for the HellFire, as Steve said it's a drop in replacement for the stock analog ECU. Unplug the stock ECU, plug in the Hellfire, hook up the laptop and you can look at every sensor, configure every table, adjust for any engine modification. Plug and Spray! Len
  13. Another Update and a request for some critique/feedback. I have been working on two fronts lately, the ever time-consuming GUI and my flow bench to test/calibrate the AFMs. First, here are some screenshots of the GUI and I would like some feedback from users on what tools/features they typically like to see while tuning. Realize of course that the system ships as a 100% bone stock L-Jet replacement with ZERO tuning needed. However, the HellFire is highly configurable. You will be able run pretty much any combination of stock and aftermarket sensors. Stock AFM, with aftermarket analog TPS,
  14. Ron, 10-4. As long as it's starting, take the Win! ? As a teaser, here is how I would check the crank signal using the HellFire ECU on my 77-280. (I added the two big red arrows in photoshop) Note: the help screen, too. You can't tell from the screenshot, but as you move the mouse over the ECU pins on the help screen, the description changes and tells you what each pin is. I still need to add into the program to show you the actual real time voltage being reported back from the ECU for each pin as you move around. The actual injector pulse width can be seen in the bottom right
  15. I just pulled my 75 FSM to look at the wiring. The relevant info is on page EF-47. Here is theory of operation (my words not FSM so anyone jump in if I don't make sense) 1 - Power to ignition switch through fusible link. 2 - Start position on ignition switch routes 12V to FI Relay(FIR) pin 86A. The wire leading there will be labeled 76. 3 - INSIDE the FIR pin 86A and 86 are tied together. So 12V will now be on pin 86 of the FIR as well. 4 - Connected to pin86 are two wires. Wire 47 and wire 4. W47 feeds the 12V crank signal to the high side of the Cold Start Valve (CSV).
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