Zed Head

Not sure what washers are shown in that diagram. Here's the TSB's summarized from Humble's book, and the 1972 diagram showing no washers at the distance piece, but a thin washer at the bearing. Between the companion flange and the inner bearing race. The 1970 diagram doesn't show any washers, last picture.

Naysayers and potential buyers aren't the same thing. Kind of pointless to respond to the naysays. Just saying...

Shorter answer - somebody either swapped the high tooth number sleeve in to your 280Z transmission, or they swapped the high tooth cog in to your 280Z sleeve. Either way, the 280Z sleeves are very common so you should be able to make the 18T cog work. But your question can't be answered until you know which of the two possibilities you're dealing with. A picture might help.

For some reason clicking on your link only opens the same post again. I managed to trick it though. Looks like the 4.11 to 4.875 diff ratios use those cogs, probably why nobody sees the sleeves. Weird that you would find one in your transmission. You should have the correct sleeve in that transmission. You could insert the sleeve and cog while turning the propeller shaft, in neutral. It might be that somebody put the wrong cog in the right sleeve. Odds are that the sleeve you have is correct for the 18T cog, since the other sleeves are like unicorns.

I was going to say what zKars said. Nissan has a TSB about their discontinuation. It's shown in the back of Humble's Restore book. Best to mic the hub and the spacers anyway to be sure they aren't worn or haven't been switched in the past. Kind of like "blueprinting" your hubs.

You should post the details of this "failure". It's not clear what failed. "Shaft" can mean the diff stub axle, the u-joint half-shaft, the CV axle, or even the hub axle depending on who's talking. Axle and shaft get used pretty much willy-nilly. http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/drivetrain-17/lsd-r180-sti-out-output-flange-conversion-stub-axels https://zcardepot.com/r180-subaru-axle-set-to-930cv-joint-new.html

One reason not to do the wheel hub flanges is because they see much higher flexing loads. Side to side. And the lever arm of a wheel is much longer than the half-shaft flange. The half-shaft flanges only see rotational forces, for the most part, the side loads are just pulling or pushing the shaft longer or shorter. Tiny compared to the wheel loads. This topic came up a week or two ago and somebody told a story about their trailer wheel falling off because the painted flange let the lug nuts loosen up. I wouldn't paint mine. If you've ever had a wheel fall off once, you'll avoid a future occurrence at all costs.

Just went and checked one. The paint is soluble in MEK. But it's very thin.

I think that it depends on the type of coating. If you've looked at the factory half-shaft flanges you'll see that they're painted by Nissan, on the mating surface. I've scraped a few clean when chunks started coming off, to be sure the surface was flat and consistent. The Nissan paint might be a two part thermosetting type of paint (I've never tested it for solubility - something to do), which won't melt and flow when hot, or creep under pressure. Paint from a spray can would be a solvent-based paint, which will melt and flow under heat and flow slowly (creep) under load. Be aware that there are thermoset and thermoplastic powder coatings. Two different types. The key is knowing what the properties of your powder coat are after curing. Epoxies will be thermoset and probably fine, nylons will be thermoplastic and maybe not so good.

The fuel pump only gets power when the engine is running, when the key is at Start, and, if it's working correctly, a 5 second stretch of power when the key is turned on. It does not just keep running when the key is at On/Run. You didn't hot-wire the car you just moved the ignition switch. There are two fuel pump relays, one's called the fuel pump control relay and the other is called the fuel pump relay. My impression has been that they're both metal but who knows. There's a diagram and chart in the FSM, EFEC chapter. Theft prevention devices have been around for a long-time. I assume that colored blob picture is the back plastic-isch thing? Can't really see any of it. From your knowledge level it would probably be best to go back to trying to start it with starting fluid. That will define a good starting point for your other troubleshooting. You've changed some things since it last ran and you might have lost spark or timing conditions that would let it run when it does get fuel. If I was in your shoes, I'd confirm that it will run with fluid, make some best guess changes, and if they don't work reset everything and make sure it runs with Starting fluid. If you don't really know the basics you need a good baseline to go back to, to reset. Try some things, reset to "runs with fluid", try some more things.

Will do! We need more "do" jimmyb. Dave F could do some browsing too. There's no CPS on the NA models.

The ECU is very sensitive the its signal from the coil negative post to the pin on the harness at the ECU. You need to confirm that that path is clean and useful, as was said several times above. Could be that engine started on CSV fuel, which turns off when the engine is started, or when the valve gets hot from its internal heater. I've found also, that spark can be visible outside the cylinder, during a test, but too weak to start the engine. In my case, starting fluid would start it but it wouldn't light up on gasoline. You might also have a giant vacuum leak. "Nothing" doesn't tell much. No spark, no change in timing, no engine start....? The answer often lies in the tiny details. The FSM Electrical chapter probably shows where all of the relays and fuses are.

I was going to refer to this thread to give the "what's it worth" thread some real and recent numbers. It's "gone" but did it sell or was there a reserve? BAT doesn't show sale prices apparently. Couldn't find one.

The clamps that fasten to the ledge on the bottom of some batteries are pretty nice. Less clutter, and the design is used by many OEM's. You'd have to some small fabricating to make it work on the stock try.

I think it depends on how rich or lean the mixture is. If it's rich the extra air raises idle speed. If it's lean or close to "right", it would drop it. Also depends on how much air leaks in. But the change alone, with brake application, is the clue.

I built a filler tube insert using three drilled holes and set screws, to clamp it to the inside of the original tube. Yours is pretty messed up though and you'd need to find a cap that would seal on the old tube's top. A rubber plumbing pipe cap and a hose clamp might get you by, with a small hole poked in it for a vent. Or a rubber hose coupler to clamp a new tube to the old one. You won't be able to close the outer cap though. Kind of joking. Dropping the tank is the way to go. Shouldn't have got angry...

I like this one since it leaked without the engine running. The oil just sits below the edge of the pan when the engine's not running. The only seal it can get by is the drain plug's. If you ran the engine then turned it off and let it sit, the filter gasket is a potential leak area,, since it's tilted and is supposed to stay filled.

Attribution... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/

I noticed some people on BAT commenting about the sill plates not having "Datsun" in the middle. My 1/76 build car does not have Datsun on the sill plates. It's been painted once, poorly, but everything else about the car says it's original. Maybe they don't know what they're talking about.

So, what I implied was normal is probably actually a sign of a clogged/low flow radiator. I saw this on my old radiator, which didn't cause overheating but had problems keeping temperature down on the hotter days. It was marginal. Interesting too that the suddenness is most likely the T-stat opening, like you thought. More clues for future cooling problems.

The locating dot/divot looks kinda like a pin, but it's just a shallow depression in one side of the gear body. Nothing on the other side.

The USPS is pretty fast. Fedex and UPS seem overpriced now..

I'm tempted to go drop the pump on my seemingly all original 76 short block. It's just sitting there wasting space anyway.

Just regurgitating stuff I've read, from people who seem to know. Maybe they all pinned theirs before you saw them. Here's another. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106792-slop-in-the-distributor-drive/

Hope your fingers don't get tired or cramped... I didn't post it earlier but the gear on the oil pump is apparently a press-fit. They've been known to slip. There are stories about the gear slipping upward, causing the distributor drive slot to lose contact with the drive tang, or just spinning a bit and screwing up the ignition timing. Something to consider if it changes again. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115353-l28et-issues-oil-pump-shaft-gear-spun/