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FS5W71B 280zx transmisson rebuild


Dave WM

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decided to start a clean thread.

easy stuff

  1. remove bell housing and rear tail shaft housing
  2. removed shift forks, detent balls and springs
  3. snap rings and speedo drive gear and ball that retains it.
  4. reverse idler gear.
  5. rear counter shaft nut/gear
  6. OD gear, needle bearings balk ring.

what is giving me problems is the OD sync hub, OD gear bushing. the bushing is not going anywhere. the manual says use a "suitable plate" behind the retainer and press out the main shaft.

I am going to have to try and some steel that has a u shape cut out to clear the retainer, I can tap it and us some all rod to attach to the puller on the end of the tail shaft.

I may try some brass or alum as I don't want to have steel bear on the syncro slots. they would be the 1st thing the plate sees unless I could fab up a spacer that fits INSIDE The synro hub and the plate could bear on that. maybe even just some washers placed around the hub would work.

anyway at a stopping point until I can figure this out.

maybe time to buy a plasma cutter and welder to star making jigs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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here is the beginning of the series. YT has stopped the free use of the video editor, so I can't combine videos, resulting in a lot of short clips.

the 1st one is pretty long, the rest are very short since I am holding the camera and working, not a very fast way to work, I end up getting starting and ending shots.

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I have a vague memory of somebody describing a "puller" they devised using a long length of pipe, longer than the shaft.  You stick the shaft down the pipe then drop the whole assembly on to a concrete floor, pipe end first.  The inertia of the shaft pulls it free.

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well if my OTC puller is no joy, I will take a trip to the surplus store and see what I can devise. If that goes nowhere I will throw in the towel and try a transmission shop.

If I can find a U shaped plate about 3/8" thick I would drill and tap it and use some all rod and a regular puller. Not sure how the pipe method you described would work.

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another idea on the puller, maybe I can just get some 1/2 plate (checked it will fit) and borrow a buddies cutting torch to fashion the opening U. No need for the accuracy of a plasm cutter. I can just clean up the edges, drill and tap the rod holes. Just thinking about my options.

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I wasn't clear on what you were trying to remove.  Looks like the adapter plate is in the way for my suggestion.

How about a cheap Harbor Freight bearing splitter?  Designed in two pieces to fit around the shaft. Doesn't have to do any splitting but would give you the "suitable plate" shape to pull on.

Here's an example.  I think that they make cheaper versions.  Maybe you can borrow one at OReilly Auto.  Might give you ideas on some sort of collar that can do the same job, also.  

https://www.harborfreight.com/large-bearing-separator-3979.html

 

 

 

 

OD Bush.PNG

bearing splitter.PNG

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1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

And don't forget to add some heat to the parts as you're pulling them.  Typically has a huge effect.

roger that.

I have the HF set that came with to, a large and small neither worked (to fat or due to slope  put a lot of stress right on the edge of the syncro teeth. I would like to put it on backwards so the flat of the puller would be against the flat of the syncro, I will take my calipers out there and see if any of them would work. If I could file the small one I have thinner it would prob work backwards.

scratch that cant file it down, already just fat enough for the clamp bolts. so has to be installed the right direction.

Edited by Dave WM
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the problem is the reverses idler shaft is in the way preventing me from positioning the 3" splitter (and I assume the larger one in your post as well). It looks like the bearing retainer plate is part of what holds the reverse idler shaft in place. I maybe able to unbolt that plate and move it aside so that shaft would not be trapped, If I can get it out of there the larger bearing puller I have may work. The next problem it the counter shaft gets in the way of the bearing splitters. I will plat with that some later, see if I can get that plate out of the way (not off, as I need the gear off to completely remove it. what I would like to do is make sure I can get the clamping bolts on the split puller very tight without any contract with the shaft of the retainer I am trying to pull. That way the flat part of the puller will be what come into contact (the puller has a slope and then a flat, that's what I want to come into contact with the back side of that grooved syncro hub). I may need some spacer washers to allow for that. Tighten the splitter together yet no contact with the shaft it circles.

Edited by Dave WM
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More progress, heeding ZH advise I went back and took another crack at the bearing splitter puller. I had to remove the loosen the bearing retainer plate to free up the reverse idler, with that out of the way I have a clean shot with the split puller, thank to ZH for getting me back on track :)

Not all was smooth sailing, I near nearly ruined one of the torx screws by trying to remove it with a hand held torx set that I had. sort of like a Swiss army knife of torx. well it started to deform the torx head so I went out to the local hardware store and picked up a torx bit  with a 3/8 sqr drive.

not trusting doing more damage I used my hand held impact driver, gave it a few solid whacks with a 4 lb BFH, and volia all is good again. I am going to have to go back and get some washers now, (forgot them) as I want to take up the space between the split puller to get it really tight together before I  start in on the removal, but at this point things are looking up.

 

Edited by Dave WM
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yea! back cluster is completely off, only casualty was I seem to have lost one of the 3 little springs in the hub assy, I don't know how as I was very careful and thought I had accounted for them all. No big deal, seems like an easy cheap spring to get OE.

taking a break now to get re organized removing the main shaft looks like it may be fiddly.

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I may have found the smoking gun. the input shaft main bearing. I thought I checked this when it was out, prob did not clean it up enough, or test it long enough.

all the bearings are out most seem pretty good, I will have to compare side by side to the new ones, but the input will catch and hang up when turned slowly after I have thoroughly cleaned and dried it.

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looking to replace the 5th gear NLA inner race of the needle bearing. think its 27x32X30

can't find anything like that, but did find this

https://www.123bearing.com/accessory-bearing-inner-race-IR28-32-30.php

Was wondering if I could use some shim stock .5mm and wrap the main shaft with that where the bearing IR goes. the whole setup is a light press fit to start with, I was planning to heat expand the bush and cool the shaft anyway as to not impart it with any force to fit.

 

 

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Or if this ID OD matches a machine shop to mill off to correct length. it listed a 1.490 which looks to be about 8mm too long.

https://cobratransmission.com/nissan-fs5w71c-4-cylinder-5th-gear-sleeve-50042094-1

I looks like they share the same needle bearing, so if the ID is correct all that needs to be done is to grind down the length (if that can be done).

 

 

Edited by Dave WM
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got the omega machines bush for the tail shaft. Seems like a lot better build quality, and the same length as what was in there (40mm vs the 35 for the cheapo one). the old one looked horrible. I don't know if it was due to the oil gutter that was knocked off when I got it, perhaps it had been run with out it for some time, so very little gear lube would make it to the bushing. More good news, I was able to find a new OD gear bush that will not need to be modified (I still have the over size one, just in case the one that comes in is not right). Its being shipped from overseas so may take a while. Got some new needle bears too since the bush is new.

The springs came in for the syncro hubs, so I put the rev/5th one back together. that is the one I lost a spring on. It was a little intimidating at 1st until I figure out how to hold the engagement dogs in place while sliding the ring over the hub. I have to say that working on the transmission has been one of the most enjoyable parts of the car.

 

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100_1106.JPG

100_1107.JPG

Edited by Dave WM
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That is the same bush I installed in mine. It took all the up and down movement out of the propeller shaft/drive shaft. I had a couple for an Opal Omega transmission, right size for the yoke, but too big for the extension housing hole. The omega worked well.

When you install it, leave it in the freezer overnight and warm the rear extension with a hot air gun until it's hot to touch. The bush will tap in easily.

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32 minutes ago, EuroDat said:

That is the same bush I installed in mine. It took all the up and down movement out of the propeller shaft/drive shaft. I had a couple for an Opal Omega transmission, right size for the yoke, but too big for the extension housing hole. The omega worked well.

When you install it, leave it in the freezer overnight and warm the rear extension with a hot air gun until it's hot to touch. The bush will tap in easily.

that is close to what I did, use a 100watt light bulb set on directly on the housing for a couple hours, then freezer followed up with some dust off from an inverted can. As you say, it tapped right in with a plastic hammer. I followed it up with an oversized socket to make sure it was flush with the alum housing, only light taps needed to set it perfectly flush. I was careful to align the oil hole with the oil trough.

Edited by Dave WM
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will get a press tomorrow, 20t from HF. Think I can make up the required tooling to support the bearings for pressing in the shafts. Or will stick with plan and try do the same as village land. Been wanting a press anyway, figure would be nice to have it around. I thing with some creative thinking I can make the jigs from steel plumbing pipes and mounts. Driving me crazy to have to wait for parts now that I have it all apart. I think just about have the assembly sequence memorize. there was one thing that I could not see in the FSM. The thrust washer on 1st gear has two divots on opposite sides. I think they go against the gear and not the adapter plate, at least that's how I have it on my dowel the other thrust washers are just flat so does not matter.

I measured the balk rings again the gaps are nearly the same between the old and new, within the margin of measurement error using my stacked up feeler gages (will look for some that are wider so I don't have to stack so much). just have to go at there and stare at it for now. 
 

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9 minutes ago, JSM said:

I see Datsun Daves Transmissions in the future!

I would be so all over that. We were looking a property up in NE Alabama, oh my there was a 40*60 climate controlled shop with what looked like at least 12ft ceilings.

Get this there was a body shop and alignment shop down the street. I told her I can retire and go get an apprentice job a the body shop, rest of the time I will be in my shop. she can have the house to herself!

Edited by Dave WM
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11 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

I would be so all over that. We were looking a property up in NE Alabama, oh my there was a 40*60 climate controlled shop with what looked like at least 12ft ceilings.

Get this there was a body shop and alignment shop down the street. I told her I can retire and go get an apprentice job a the body shop, rest of the time I will be in my shop. she can have the house to herself!

LOL! Alabama? What is there?  Orlando was ranked number 3 best places to retire recently. Alabama has 5% state income tax but no SS tax or pension tax past 65.  

Then again, we are going to become the new PR so things may change. 

Edited by JSM
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