Zed Head

Here's some - http://www.americanmuscle.com/thermaflect-tape-20ft-roll.html?utm_content=Engine - Other|Heatshield&utm_campaign=15%2B No Years&utm_source=Google-pla&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_term={keyword}&AMID=thermaflect-tape-20ft-roll-FPReplacementV1&T5_Var3=blue&GID=384426&T5_Var4=384426 Metal foil tape for ductwork is also good for reflective properties. I've used Nashua on my furnace. Amazing how the adhesive holds up under heat. http://www.nashuatape.com/ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4DS/ref=asc_df_B00004Z4DS5006355/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00004Z4DS&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167116234959&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1910754238379148577&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1024543&hvtargid=pla-313874637779

Would you still use it if it was free? If not, then it's not "worth" it.

Is the gland nut pressing on the KYB shock body, or is it bottomed out on the external strut housing? Sometimes a washer on top of the shock is necessary to get proper clamping.

You could block the hose and see what happens. Even carb'ed cars have a fast idle mechanism on the linkage. Best case you'd have a low idle for a while and the engine would not die while you waited. I've read a few articles that suggest that warming up engines is not really beneficial. Once oil pressure is up the best way to get the engine to operating temperature is to drive it, at light load. Letting it run at cold engine temperatures actually puts more wear on the parts, because the gaps are wider and there's more unburned fuel washing away the lubricating oil.

"Louder than Love"? That's some raw Cornell. Allman and his brothers were on par with Lynyrd Skynyrd easily. It is a shame, 69 is not that many years. I was not at a bar last night. Feel like I'm slacking...

Oscar used to have quite a bit on his web site aout the various types of valves and options, but it's being "upgraded", apparently, and is useless for the time being, except for the phone number and address. http://www.zspecialties.com/

Air regulator maybe? Can't find any mention of "idle air control valve" for the 1980 cars. http://www.zcarsource.com/air-regulator-280z-280zx-300zx_8_55227.html

I remember finding some edges where the head hangs over the block and using a piece of 2x4 against the edge and a big hammer to knock the head up and break it free. Easier with the engine out of the car.

Use several, maybe made of wood or larger in diameter, to spread the load. One small prybar focused on small contact point is what will cause damage. Wrap a rag around the blade of the bar if you don't have any old shovel handles or water pipes. You should be worried. Has it separated at all? Any gaps?

Did you get the two small ones in front, to the front cover? The bolt that spins probably has a ring of rust and/or sealant that won't let the wide threads past (edit - actually it's probably stuck on the hole in the head gasket).. You can clean it off later but if the bolt just spins then the threads aren't holding the head down. Probably not the problem. The head gasket can be sticky. I hope that screwdriver or prybar isn't stuck between the head and block. That would be bad.

The sloping design might be to drive the tail of the transmission downward under braking or impact. Maybe. Hate to be my usual contrary self but I think the second picture might be the way. If I read the illustration correctly.

Thanks. I've wondered where those shaved heads end up. That's a hair under an N42 or N47. 44.6. But with the heart shaped combustion chamber, instead of round.

Clean, clean, clean. Use contact cleaner or CAIG Deoxit. The wires tend to be okay but the connections get corroded. There are replacements for the things like the injector connectors. The connections under the seat are probably the brake warning lamp check relay. At least one is. BE-36 and -43 in the factory manual.

Welcome. Doesn't look too bad. You're in the "Help Me!!" forum but didn't really ask for any, or specify a problem. Bring 'em on...

What numbers did he get on the CC'ing? Curious.

I mean well. Frankly, it still seems like you're missing some things. If you have an R200 flange just use thr procedure in the 240Z FSM. Sorry.

I'll stop. U-joints are easy, I assumed if you didn't know how to do a u-joint you might not know about the pattern. Good luck.

R180 and R200 have the same bolt pattern except 1975 and 300ZX.

Definitely looks smaller than my L28 plug, in the same position, so the head elbow's not going to fit. I just went out and looked at mine and it takes up much more of the boss than yours. Interesting. I'd bet good money that it's the same size as one of the coolant passage fittings in the thermostat housing. Or maybe a carburetor/manifold fitting. Were it mine, I'd remove a few coolant fittings and/or senders or sensors, and try them.

Fusible links are like "slow blow" fuses. Fuses are specified mainly to the gauge of the wire that they're protecting. In the development world there's probably lots of testing to failure before the final specification. It's an interesting topic. You can go with a lower fuse rating if you add heat removal. It's really all about the heat. I've solved fuse blowing problems in the old house I live in by opening the fuse panel door in the summertime. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html http://aemcomponents.com/applications/faq/

I meant the direction the blades spin didn't matter as long as the air was moving in the correct direction. That's why you reverse the power and ground wires, to reverse the rotation direction of the fan. Making it spin the right direction instead of wrong. Man, this site is slow....

You can isolate corners by sticking a piece of rubber under the fitting at the end of a line, as a plug. Something like a BB might work also. You can also isolate at the MC to see if the problem is in the front or back. The material inside the lines might not be as flexible as the exterior. Clamping the lines will damage a thermoplastic, like Teflon. You definitely don't want to clamp a stainless steel line.

I've had a few Yuenglings n Pottstown. The fish in the river are these weird orange and gray hybrid Koi-Carp. My Irish buddy though they were fantastic trophy sport fish.

Any "old engine" shop that saw those numbers would think bent or stuck valve first. Not engine rebuild. The shop didn't try to sell him anything though. They didn't want to work on it. Overall, you have to wonder if they really put much effort in to the pressure checks. A simple inspection, and a couple of measurements of your own and you'll be way better off, knowledge-wise, than you are now. You might be able to borrow a pressure tester at a parts store. Get the screw-in type.

Who measured the cylinder pressures that you referred to in Post #1?