Zed Head

Here's a good thread with lots of information. You might need to grind a small notch in the base of the shift lever. Beside that, it should work fine. Install new bushings.

Are you sure? There is a ton on the site about using the 280Z shifters on the ZX 5 speeds with no problems. And a lot about how the ZX shifter doesn't work well in the Z's. Can't remember what car you're putting the trans in though.

You can see the attempts to spin the topic in to a battle (post above this one), with personal attacks disguised in well-versed dissemblement. Talking around the main topic, but close enough to appear on-topic. This thread should really be titled "Shell with two VINs", not "no VIN". 87mj made an attempt to get things straight but even local law enforcement seems to give bad advice. Which could be what happened to the person he bought it from. Sometimes people at the DMV are just too helpful, and will skirt the rules thinking that they're doing a favor. Or maybe just don't have the training or documents to know about the firewall VIN. In 87mj's case, the firewall VIN wasn't covered, it, apparently, just wasn't considered.

There's some neat stuff on that site. Gives you ideas. Magnets, maybe, but for rail reinforcers. http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/LiftLytes

Here's a reference, #15. Funny though, I don't know how to get to gnosez's business web site. Edit - found it - http://baddogparts.com/

Somebody out there, maybe gnosez, used to sell a weld-on plate for that purpose. @gnosez I've thought about making a sort-of clip-on rail protector for use in the garage. Of course, it would be just a simple load distributor, but I'll bet you could work one up that might even fit in the tool boxes behind the seats. Pop them out whenever needed. 3/16" steel or aluminum would probably be sufficient. You could also just hand the guy at the shop four pieces of wood and ask him to put them on the lift pad.

Two things - please quote or copy the statement from any individual that has expressed "condoning" falsifying a VIN. HS30 implied that that was happening but I don't think that there are any actual words written in this thread that show that. You seem to be following HS30's lead. The bulk of this thread is about how it could happen and what to do about it. Nobody is suggesting that it's right or legal. Second - if you do find a kernel of support in this thread for falsifying a VIN, please call out the individual. Not this "place". Don't use a broad brush to paint everyone on the site as a potential thief. It's lazy. If you start at the beginning of the thread and work through it you'll probably find the single post that started everything spinning madly, with unfounded insinuations of thievery, dishonesty and/or immorality. There's a lot of good discussion in here but the basic message is the one that's been taught to all of us as soon as we got some money to spend - caveat emptor. Mistakes happen, thievery does happen, ignorance happens. It's okay, and good, to talk about it, without condoning it. 87mj didn't do his due diligence and now has a problem on his hands. Who knows what it will do to his soul. He hasn't committed any crimes, yet.

Did you check inside the booster? The Master-Vac? That's where fluid often goes when it leaves the MC. Probably means you need a new MC, or to rebuild it, and want to check the booster well and clean it up. The brake fluid will damage it.

Back on topic - there are basically two basic sides to this discussion. One is what you "feel" defines a car, and the other is what legally defines a car. They're not the same thing, and several of the posts in this thread are really just railing against the law that allows people to remove the provenance of the original VIN. Maybe invalidating that original stamping or etching in the firewall of the unibody Z car. Depending on which state you're in.

Asking somebody to define their argument is a sign of defeat? Man, you are really out there, swinging at anything that moves. That's a sign of defeat. You don't even care what you hit as you long as you hit something. I don't think that you're even sure what you're arguing for anymore. Can you say, in a few words, what your point is? The position that you think you're defending?

tzag hasn't really even defined his argument. He's windmilling. In the fighting sense, not the other one that shows up on Google (where does that stuff come from?). We should just let it rest.

But thanks for letting me exercise some words...

Here's some paleontology - https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=tIcbWv-yI86cjwOH35vQCA&q=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+cast+impeller+water+pumps&oq=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+cast+impeller+water+pumps&gs_l=psy-ab.3...2920.17724.0.18756.49.48.1.0.0.0.101.1911.47j1.48.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.5.303...0j0i131k1j0i10k1.0.72j6gdoQaMg

You're bloviating. You're not even on-topic, you're just picking things out of thin air and dissembling about your misstatements. The topic that I was posting on is "swapping bodies of a Z car". The straight answer is it's not possible. It just isn't. There are no laws involved.

tzag, you're getting sucked in to the vortex. You talked about "swapping a body in our case" in your post above. There is no swapping bodies in any Z car case. It's not physically possible. Nothing to do with arguing or legality or morals or religion. Just material stuff. Edit, rephrase - There is no frame to swap a body on to.

It's not years, it's miles, or even more specifically, RPM, that matters. But I was just condensing the years of wisdom that have been poured in to forums like this one. People don't like the cast steel impellers. The philosophical discussions have been well-worn and are now petrified, out there on the interwebs. You'll probably be fine. Just saying...most club members would not have bought that pump.

Sorry tzag, but he's right - these are unibody cars, with reinforcing frame-like pieces in certain areas. The "body" is, essentially, the whole car, there is no frame.

The GMB design with the stamped steel impeller is not the desirable one. Generally, people feel that the cast impeller design works better. There are several of those on the site.

My 1976 switch and light worked fine, many times, as I tried to bleed my front brakes in the days after I got my car. Turned out the calipers were on the wrong sides, upside down, and there were big bubbles in both. If I recall correctly, pumping the pedal would cause the light to go out and the front brakes to work. The workout probably added many miles and years to its life.

I left two of the same image in the post as an act of rebellion against the wonky post editing software. But, yes, those are the springs I thought I saw. Maybe the switch tended to get stuck and that's why redesigned it. There's not much to it, no reason to redesign unless there was a problem. Functions are identical.

GMB pumps are available on Rockauto right now. Looks the same as yours.

I see the logic now. They might have added a self-centering mechanism that didn't require a pressure differential in the later revision. Maybe the ramped portion of the valve plunger. Still unclear to me though that the original 72 switch, in good shape, required a reset. Just haven't seen the firm example. Even your anecdote is about broken switches but nothing about resetting a stuck one. If I had one, I'd test it and see what happens. If you can reset it with a small screwdriver you should be able to get it stuck with one. Not really arguing just looking for some solid evidence. Here's the 72 and 76 switches, you can see the ramped area in the 76. It looks like the 72 has a spring to reposition the valve, but it's not clear. The 76 switch might even work in a 72 but then you'd have to wonder about the VIN. Just kidding.

Take some better pictures of the spot. Looks like one of the stamped steel impeller pumps. Nobody really likes them.

Laws are determined by the state, sometimes the county. By people. That's how laws work, they're just written rules, written by people, in this case, for the purpose of assigning ownership. As already mentioned, there are many different laws in the USA. We are not homogeneous. Morality is determined by intent. Intent has not been determined here yet. If the "law" says that you can leave an old VIN ID on a part used on a separate car with its own VIN, then both of your cases are incorrect. The law will have been followed and whoever did it had no apparent intent to "steal" from another person. All they need to do is follow the law. The OP has moved on, apparently, and may or may not be hiding the car for ten years. If he is hiding it then maybe he is committing an amoral act. But, he probably hasn't really though about it, so god might give him a pass. Really though, you're kind of going over the top here. It's still just a car with some numbers attached, and no documents showing which are correct. Bringing the concept of a supreme power in to the discussion is a bit much, and nobody has advocated breaking the law. We're just describing how things are over here in the wild west. This is not England. But, since it's a topic, are the laws in all fo the territories of the UK identical, or are there differences? Might be a good point of reference for you. The OP bought an undefined legal problem and may or may not try to resolve it. Found my example on Wikipedia. We're not so different. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Law_of_the_United_Kingdom

We need to know more about this "bolt buster" induction heater. Is it 120 or 240 volt? Where can you get them?