Zed Head

I'm pretty sure that these sites calculate how many users they lose against how much bandwidth that they can fill with tracking software and ads. A 56K modem used to be super-fast. The internet is not for information communication anymore, it's for commerce.

Well, you're not the first. Fidanza mucked up I'd say. Not looking great for you. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f505/my-clutch-fused-flywheel-208321/ http://www.instazu.com/media/1834535177267711847 But there is hope...

The fact that you got a little bit of green on your rag means that it was starting to dissolve a bit. It's probably meant to cure, like a 2K paint, but maybe it didn't get a full cure. I'd still call Fidanza, their number's on those documents, and tell them what's happening. Who knows, they might have quality control problems, and you need a new one. You did what the instructions said to do. Good luck. Still laughing over STYLE.

If you got it in to reverse with no problem, that wouldn't seem to be the issue. Plus you said that you can see the slave moving. I'll bet this new coating they came up with absorbs certain solvents and gets soft. I'd call them, they'll know. STYLE coating.

Put the car in to high gear and have somebody push the car while you press the clutch pedal. Or vice-versa. That should break the disc free, if it's going to break free. It sees a lot more abuse in normal service.

Alright, it gets weirder. Since it worked once, you might be able to just break it free and break it in as Fidanza suggests in this document. I'd call Fidanza directly and tell them what you did and what's happening. Weird stuff with poor communication on Fidanza's part. Good luck. http://www.fidanza.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/NEW-GREEN-COATING-ADDS-STYLE-PROTECTION-.pdf

Here's a picture, and instructions. I don't know what the green stuff is. Seems like aluminum might be anodized. That green looks pretty thick though. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fiz-186501/media/instructions https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/FIZ-FIDANZA_PERF_Flywheel_Instructions_2013.pdf

I'm not familiar with the green coating but generally, the metal surfaces should be clean metal. No coatings. It sounds like that green coating might have been meant to be removed completely, and that you did glue the flywheel to the clutch disc. You should take it back apart and clean those surfaces and you can probably save the parts.

Here's a good older thread about that. Not much room past 44. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/49057-l28-bigger-valves/

Nissan used some pretty strong thread sealer on the fill plug. The plug in the video has been out before, it's not stock. I had to use heat to get mine out. Not red hot but enough to expand the aluminum cover and soften up the sealer. I could only turn the plug when the cover was warm, when it cooled down it got tight again. Good tips on removing the control arm caps and loosening the cross brace. You can also loosen the mustache bar nuts and let the diff drop slightly. With support under it of course. Here's another tip - never try to refill the diff if it's 40 degrees F in the garage. It will take forever.

Are the injectors the stock "green top" injectors? And have you measured the resistance of the coolant temperature sensor? That test is in the EFI Book. Could be that the PO installed "turbo" injectors. Never know. Or adjusted the AFM. Or that your coolant temp. circuit is open. Try moving the AFM vane by hand and see if it runs better. You can move the weight under the black cover. Close it and the ECU will supply less fuel. Might tell you if the AFM could use adjustment. Your fuel pressure looks pretty good for what you're experiencing. Here's your other thread -

In the video the guy says that it has 4.11 gears. The video is watchable if you turn the speed up to 2X.

Interesting that it still has an R180 diff. Looks like it's seen some speed bumps too. Crinkly sub-frame rails. The trans mount seems a bit off. Even I would have at least rounded the corners. Edit - in the video the guy says that the owner swapped the 6 speed in. Probably when the new trans mount was made. Probably not a Scarab part. Still a nice looking car though.

Thanks. I thought that you meant tail pipe but I see now that it's the headers. A common problem with all cars that have headers. Do you know the brand of the seats, or which car they came from? They look good in there. Does "fixed" mean non-adjustable? I did that in one of my way-back cars. Details on the crate motor might help you. There's a wide range out there.

That's oil. But they might be the same. One funky thread size. Decimal metric? 16,400 microns. 82/127ths of an inch.

A tap should cut some new threads pretty easily. Grease up the tap and you won't have to worry too much about shavings, plus gravity will help. Use a magnetic bolt, like for an oil pan, and you'll pick up any strays plus some rust.

Looks like it's barely been driven. The fuel hose is inches from the header. Did you use a kit or build your own mounts? Surprised that you fit the full HEI system in and still managed to keep the hood latch. Do you have a shot of the bottom of the car? Seems like the oil pan might be low. Good luck. p.s. You could at least change a few words. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129510-1973-240z-w350-swap/

Pretty pretty pretty sure that somebody out there knows the thread pitch and size but here's a link to the Nissan part numbers. They call it a plug and packing. Talk about translation problems. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Engine-280Z/Fuel-Tank/From-Jul-76

For any late-arrivers. This is how the slide starts. Inability to be civil. Can't make an argument without calling names. Calling people stupid before trying to make the point is a sure sign that there's no substance to the words that follow. We're seeing a lot of it these days, by supposed leaders in both England and the US.

You can't make an argument without an insinuation of some sort of sexual fetish? More weakness. And apparently you missed the point of the analogy entirely. You should be making fun of my height or lack of leaping ability. Your large vocabulary is wasted. The last part is the correct part - these rebadged cars are fakes, in my opinion, and devalue the car that gets the fake badge. You can't talk about your car without revealing that it's a fake unless you want to continue the fraud. And I doubt that "everybody else" is in your camp. Why spend your time, if you're honest, constantly explaining that the car just has a badge from a different car, it didn't come that way. Maybe the key issue here is honesty. Just like it was in the VIN thread.

205/70- 14's rubbed on my 280Z, on the harder corners. Apparently the "205" is the width from sidewall to sidewall, not tread width, as I had thought before. Anyway, 215's might rub. You'll probably want to compare offsets also.

A badge is a label used to identify the object it's on. A VIN is a number used to identify the object it's on. What's the point of rebadging if not to suggest that the object it's on is what the badge says it is? I can understand enjoying the thought that you might have what the new label implies, living a mild fantasy, but when it comes down to the "nitty-gritty", if somebody asks "is that a real Fairlady Z?", the honest answer is no. It just has a Fairlady badge on it. So, in essence, it's a fraud. I wonder if HS30-H sold his counterfeit Fairlady Z as a real one. Anyway, the discussion ended up on-point until HS30-H's insecurities kicked in. If he had a Twitter account I assume that he'd be on a rant about peoples' "stupid witterings", whatever a wittering is. (Apparently "wittering" is a Scottish word. Rebadged as English, I assume). Protecting the badge is one thing, but then supporting moving the badge around willy-nilly is another. He's trying to play both sides, and has no leg to stand on.

Explain how DC871's car is special and you might have a case. It really looks like you made a fake in the past so it's okay for others to make fakes. Your moral compass seems to have yourself as North. Everything points inward. Rebadging is no different than re-VIN-ing, except it's legal.

This has to be the weakest effort I've seen from you. Playing both sides. As long as you produce your fake the correct way, it's okay. Desperate. I'm actually disappointed. Nitty-gritty. A vague word, used to imply hidden special knowledge. But there's not really anything there is there? Just go get a Fairlady firewall VIN scrap and patch it in. Voila, it's a Fairlady Z.

That's the other word. M'FairLady Z.