Zed Head

I thought that he mixed his bar description with his bushing description. Either way, "yes, cutting the flange off and pressing the bushing out is how the the two flange style bushings are changed" is the answer, I think.

I think that he's referring to post #42 which shows a design that only has one flange, or folded over edge. They probably worked their way out of the bar so Nissan added a post insertion flange later.

Seems like #69 would be the same part. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension

Somebody just asked about this, calling them "rubbers". I thought he meant bushings but apparently he meant the seals. Might be that Jalex doesn't really need the bushings. Actually, Patcon, you were there in that thread. I've not seen those inner "rubbers" but who knows.

I used shrink tubing with adhesive for some over the engine wires and the hot melt melted out of the tubes and dripped on to the heat shield under the intake manifold. Maybe do some testing before going crazy. Choose the usage environment carefully. Does look interesting.

You can tell by the shape of the rear cover, and the bolts on the side flange that holds the axle bearings in. R200's have the same gear ratios. You need to know what the ratio of your R180 is. The ratio is how many times the propeller shaft turns for how many times the wheels turn. A 3.9 ratio will turn the propeller shaft 3.9 times for one rotation of both wheels. Mark the tires and the propeller shaft and turn the propeller shaft. Make sure that both wheels turn. Cont how many times the propeller shaft runs to get one full rotation. Or you can remove the rear cover and the ratio will be marked on the ring gear.

That is an R180.

That is good to know. $50 for a new ignition module is a great price. The two pickup model (seven external terminals) is more expensive though. One for $100, one for $140. https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=spark-surplus&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=280z+module&_sacat=0

Looks like a 2 man bidding war. The guy was talking about a reserve when it was at $2000. So his reserve was above that number. Local availability, no shipping costs, and rust-free might be the key. 20 hours will tell. https://www.ebay.com/bfl/viewbids/163174309767?item=163174309767&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2565

That's the California model, for single pickup distributors. It might work but you'll lose one pickup. But I've never heard of IGM-4. It might not be a Nissan part. Looks like a risky bet. Their eBay store sells a lot of parts though and their ratings aren't too bad. https://www.ebay.com/usr/spark-surplus https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OUT-OF-BOX-OEM-For-1975-76-Datsun-280z-Electronic-Ignition-Module-IGM-04-/182015405068?oid=182824115436

In Oregon it's so dry and hot that the wheat fields are burning. The whole west side of the country is in bad shape. https://www.oregonlive.com/expo/news/erry-2018/08/6b8fa147951565/major-wildfires-in-oregon-blaz.html

What do you mean by "electronic parts"? The ignition system? And do you mean the stalling issue or the power drain issue? Sorry, you kind of ran a bunch of things together. What is the current status of the car? Does it run and drive? Maybe restate the problem as it is today.

Only from the forum. @sweatybetty and @tzagi1 are down south. They probably have space.

I got no space. There's 10 of us in the Portland metro area, and another five in driving range.

so that there will be room on the dip stick for the stop-leak seal conditioner.

That looks like shipping charges for the gauges. Small stuff. Still very low though. I just saw a show about how the postal service has contracts with various countries that limit shipping charges. The guy on the show was owner of an American company and said that it would be cheaper for him to ship all of his inventory in one shipment to China in a container or two, then have it shipped to individual customers from there as they placed orders, because of the much cheaper individual order shipping costs. He wrote a book about it, along the lines of why Chinese companies were killing his business. Anyway, good luck.

I was going to make a joke before about how the car seemed fuzzy. The pictures, of course. Now I see why the seller went with fuzzy pictures. You really wore your camera out. The engine's internal parts might be worth a few dollars if the oil protected them. Rocker arms, cam shaft. Spray bar. Tail light lenses. "Series I" back glass.

Pretty sure I've read about trucks, chains, and trees. Maybe a story about a come-along (hand held cable winch) and two trees. You didn't say much about what "pulled on 'em like crazy" means. Maybe just get crazier.

Dubai, UAE. Shipping might be much. Looks interesting.

Anybody remember Bob Vila...the original guy... https://www.bobvila.com/articles/muriatic-acid/

It's the same electrical plug though right? You just have two extra wires. The plugs are all the same I believe. It should plug right in and the two wires are extra.

If you try that be aware that the byproduct of the reaction is hydrogen gas, and heat will be produced. In the small gap around the strut insert and tube there could be enough pressure to start spewing acid from the tube. And muriatic acid is a strong one it will burn you quickly. Don't do this work in a closed space and have a hose handy to dilute any that gets on you. Wear goggles. Not saying it's a bad idea, but apple cider vinegar will have a similar effect, just much slower and safer. Also, since you're using inserts you could drill a hole in the bottom of the tube to get more penetrant or rust eater in.

That sounds very much like mine when the ignition module was dying. After it did what you describe you could let it sit for a few seconds and it would restart. It would run fine if you kept it below about 3000 RPM. But if you revved it, it would do the same thing. The tach needle action is a big clue.

The last tag is 98. So 20 years. Why was it parked? It ran when parked, of course. Do you have the front end pieces? Good luck.