Zed Head

You got jalex'ed...

They are the same size as the wheel lug nuts. You could just use spare lug nuts if you have them.

Yes, apparently. The most common "71C" source is from a 240SX. But the 300ZX is possible also. Somewhere over the years they beefed up the gears in the 71C's, and they also added synchros. The later models have double synchros on 2nd and 3rd and a reverse synchro. I have one in the garage that I did and EuroDat has a 71C swap done also, I believe. The propeller shaft needs to be shorter, but it's been found that the very early 240Z shafts will work. Here's a couple of links showing what needs to be done. I swapped the countershaft bearing on mine, to avoid the cost of boring out the case. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm https://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04293JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-266482

It's all good info for the next guys.

Don't forget that the extensions used on the tester add to compression chamber volume. So you'll get a lower number if you use the big pipe extension on the tester. But, it is a California Datsun motor. Might be a P79 or P90 head on a dished piston short block. Knowing the head number/model would help the puzzle. As far as faster takeoff in first, the rear diff ratio needs to be known. And whether the 5 speed is a 280Z or a 280ZX unit.

I think that 86 uses the 71C transmission. His is the 71B. That's the heart of the topic. Here's a link that covers some of the models and year changes. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=71-series_Transmission

That seems to be what mine are. So with a front case swap it should work. You shouldn't have to do any extra work either, bearing swaps or grinding, since the bearings and clearances should be the same. But the ratios are more like a 280Z, not a 280ZX, apparently. The Haynes manual that I have says the ratios are 3.321, 2.077, 1.308, 1, and 0.833. So a 3.54 diff ratio would be about right.

Why did you post here? Seems random.

It's a 71B. I marked the two critical measurements. One to the mount, and the other for total length. Get those and somebody can provide a comparison. I have a a couple out in the garage.

I found an old 200SX manual that I had that shows the 71B as the 200SX transmission. So if you get a Z car front case/housing it should bolt to the engine. But, as I said, it's been reported the the length might be different. So it might not be "just like" a Z car 5 speed. And, if the tail shaft housing is different the crossmember mounting points might be different, along with the exhaust system hangers. So, you could probably make it work but it might not be worth the effort.

Can you post a picture? I think there is another 5 speed that Nissan used on the lower power engines. My 1978 Datsun B210 had a 5 speed but I'm pretty sure it wasn't a 71B 5 speed. My vague memory is of a much smaller unit.

Don't forget "adjust rod length". That's the part that gets most people, for both brake and clutch.

Probably. Which engine in the 200SX? Some of the transmissions have shorter tail shaft housings though. You might need a custom driveshaft.

Found it -

I was searching for a recent thread and came across this instead. Doesn't seem right.

There's a recent thread about the clutch pedal clevis pin and the holes. Can't find it. You might read up on that before you start. That area is not one you'll want to visit twice.

The breaker plate is easy to get off, it's just two screws and it pulls right off the top, after you pry the reluctor wheel off with a big screwdriver.. You don't even have to remove the pickup coil. then you can look through the gap at the bearings. If they 're not bad some oil and easy working by hand might break them free. 246 Blue atlanticz had a writeup for a ZX that shows some similar parts- http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html If the ball bearings are iffy they can get stuck when they move and your timing will get weird. It could stay advanced. Of course, you could just leave the vac advance hose off.

I often pondered renting a U-Haul to move a Z, when I was shopping for one. They'll fit inside one of the larger box trucks. I would have had to build ramps to roll it up and in and might have had to fashion some tie-down points inside but I think it would have been doable. I don't have a specific company in mind but make sure that they know how to transport old unibody cars. Using wheel straps instead of tow hooks and other details like that are important to avoid damage.

Remove the breaker plate from that distributor and check the ball bearings for rust. They're probably stuck to the rolling surface. If you take it apart and clean it out now you might be able to save the bearing cage that typically breaks when vacuum is applied after sitting and rusting. It's a three-handed job to get the little wire clip on and off but it's doable. Take pictures or make a diagram I've taken a few apart that were reassembled wrongly. It's a puzzle.

I did. Compared to other models though, like a Chevy Nova, there doesn't seem to be much of a market, especially since Tokico was already in there. It was more of a historical thought. In today's world, most of those old solid companies have gone bankrupt or been incorporated in to bigger companies. Federal Mogul seems like the result. Once those brand names get under the big umbrella anything can happen I think. Look at the names here - https://www.fmmotorparts.com/

I have a 1978 blower motor, in good shape, if anyone needs one. Took it from a parts car. Cleaned the mouse nest out, powered it up, and it spins fine, no noise.

I wonder if the Wagner cylinder is a reman, so they covered the "Made in" mark. I'm fairly certain that my rusty piston is original Nissan. So, in 1978, probably made in Japan. Seems odd that Wagner made molds and had a process for casting Nissan replacements, for a fairly limited number of vehicles. Things were different back then, I guess.

So this has no value to you now? I've been saving it. Just curious - where were those parts made. Should be shown on the box.

I agree that it is inherent to the design. That's why Nissan recognized the problem in 1973. I would assume that they had professional engineers work on the solutions that they proposed also. Just saying...they didn't publish that document for amusement. If those proposed solutions don't work then I think it's reasonable to look changes in fuel formulations. The fundamental problem is the same as for the EFI engines. Too much heat for the fuel. Many possible solutions, some not so pretty. A fun problem though.

The problem here is not "vapor lock". It's percolation. It's described in the Nissan document. The solution will come from the fine details, I think. As far as fuel goes, don't overlook winter blend versus summer blend. This has nothing to do with ethanol. It's a formulation change designed to make engines start faster and run better when they are cold, by increasing the volatility of the blend. For emissions purposes.