Zed Head

For what you're planning a set of KYB's would work fine. Many people use them, on lowered cars too. You'll find a ton of comments across the internet about what you have to do to use lowering springs, and what "won't work". But you'll find almost zero stories about anybody who actually had a bad experience. You'll probably find stories too about how you can't use Koni reds on a lowered car because they were specified for stock ride height. JEGS is a cheap source - https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/m20ProductDisplayView?catalogId=10002&langId=-1&productId=331926&storeId=10001 or these guys - https://thmotorsports.com/380079-koni-adjustable-special-d-twin-tube-mcpherson-strut-cartridge?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6IDVlbOE4AIVAhx9Ch1EaAaaEAYYASABEgKIvfD_BwE or you can save some money, put the car together, then see what you really need. You might decide to go with full adjustable "coil over"s. - https://www.amazon.com/KYB-FRONT-REAR-shocks-struts/dp/B002T4HDY6

Check the laws in your state and Kentucky. A call to each DMV should answer your questions. A bill of sale and a release of interest is a very common way to sell a car. Without either though, you'll probably have problems.

Lowering the car will cut down on roll. Here's a good source for part numbers. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/front-suspension

You're not going to find much in that price range that doesn't have a whole lot more work to do than patching 280Z bumper shock holes. Good luck though. Writing more words will get more interest.

See if the little yellow wire to the starter solenoid has voltage when you turn the key to Start. Some of the cars have an inhibitor switch. GL model with automatic transmission. Otherwise it's just a yellow wire from the ignition switch all the way to the starter solenoid, with one connection along the way. The connector would look exactly like the picture, with 21 pins.

What are your plans? Why not a 280Z?

Here's one diagram. It's a pretty simple relay. Looks like you can check at least one side at the fuse panel. I didn't look for the other side but it's probably in the same chapter.

What are you starting with? A completely stock 240Z that was parked in 1994? Or did it already have some mods? Are the Konis 24 years old? Have you been watching the conversations about values? An old stock 1970 car might be worth keeping stock. Got any pictures? Stock rubber busings can often be found. "Poly" is oversold and a bit hypey. The poly guys just made replicas of every rubber part they could find and advertised them as a performance upgrade. And colored them red.

Some of the 88's have a VLSD. The Shiro's. The one in your link looks like one. Don't know if they all had the VLSD or if some had the CLSD. Something to check. The Hemmings article implies that they all do. They have special axles so don't swap easily. "Other bits included a viscous limited-slip diff" https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hsx/2014/05/Superhero-Shiro---1988-Nissan-300ZX-Shiro-Special/3737671.html

Can't you post the link?

Although, it does look toasty down there. https://www.theguardian.com/australia-news/2019/jan/19/australia-swelters-as-relentless-hot-weather-smashes-records

Wrong crowd.

Another clue to a draw is a spark when you attach the battery cables. Only the clock should draw current and it creates a tiny tiny spark. Just offering basic from-the-start troubleshooting ideas. Your story jumps around a lot.

Add $10,000. $50,000 73 Z!

Your voltage numbers are way off, for starters. Could be that there is a drain somewhere. Start with a fully charged battery, over 12.6 volts with nothing connected, and see if voltage drops when you connect the cables. 11.3 volts shouldn't even crank the engine. Something is wrong. You might just have a failing battery. https://ussolarinstitute.com/glossary/battery-state-charge/

Which site would get more money to the seller? Don't know what BaT charges. No reserve is a crock. Just guarantees the auction house a commission.

Describe the actual problem and somebody can probably get you on the right path. CO has a 78, I think, and he knows some specific 78 stuff. He loves looking at those relay diagrams and will explain the fuel pump control scheme in great detail. And SteveJ and others just generally know Z electrics. But you gotta give some clues.

There might be more numbers once you remove it. Yours looks in great condition though. Here's mine.

150 with the adapter is not bad. You'll get higher pressure the shorter the tube to the gauge is.

Can you post the seller info, or is it a one time eBay thing? Looks like about $72 US. Even with shipping it's probably a good deal for a straight replacement part. Is it NOS, or used?

What is the material? I think that the originals are nylon.

On a whim I tried their chat function. They said 2-4 weeks. Don't know if it's real but they didn't say next week. You can't "Watch" it unless you're a member.

You probably won't get your money back on the cost for those small fixes. Those are the kind of things people overlook when buying. People buy the bigger picture. If it has a good smog sticker, sell it now.

Has it been pinned? I haven't followed all of the details. Lots of slop in the factory mounting system. Do you have a borescope? It would be cool to see the path of the runners in to the head. Probably help alignment also.

You might try stretching an o-ring over the existing roller. It won't need gluing and you'll get the advantage of the lubricity of the material. O-rings are interesting things. They're actually designed to take the place of seal "packing", as I understand things, and are supposed to be fit to a precisely machined cavity. Not supposed to be exposed. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O-ring