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70 240z parked 15 years, brakes stuck

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My brakes are stuck.  I’ve pulled the rear tires off, and I’m trying to get the wheels off to look at the brakes.  I’m using a rubber mallet and a block of wood, along with spraying wd40 and carb cleaner where I can to try to break things loose.  Any ideas on a better way to do this.  I’m thinking that ATF might be a better product to break things loose. ??? 

 

 

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As @Patcon suggested work on the adjusters and try to make sure they are retracted.

Keep it up with the block of hardwood and big f'in hammer. They can be a bear to remove, but should eventually break free. I hope you don't damage the fins--the finned cast aluminum drums are another neat aspect of our Z's.

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If the drums have lots of wear, that produces a ridge of metal that makes it very difficult to remove them. It gets much easier if you get the adjusters to move.

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Once you get the drums off if you decide you need to replace the wheel cylinders you might find this thread of help. The wheel cylinders for that car are very expensive, but can be replaced with the much cheaper ones on the slightly later cars.

 

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2 hours ago, Patcon said:

If the drums have lots of wear, that produces a ridge of metal that makes it very difficult to remove them. It gets much easier if you get the adjusters to move.

Usually it's a two part problem.  This is the second part.  If you can get them to spin then spinning and pulling at the same time can get you started over the ridge.  It's tedious and difficult.  Pull, spin, wobble, pound....

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8 hours ago, Zup said:

I hope you don't damage the fins--the finned cast aluminum drums are another neat aspect of our Z's.

Yes!  Very expensive too, if you can find them.

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Heat the brake drum between the wheel studs to brake the rust that forms there, you need to get it pretty hot,  penetrating oil will help also.   Backing off the brake shoes will greatly help if possible.  The fins are delicate use a block of wood between the hammer and drum.  Lastly keep at it, it took several cycles of heat and banging on them in my case.

Edited by jwtaylor

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Depending on how bad they are, it might require drastic measures.  I had one rusty old 280Z parts car that had been stored for about a decade and the drums were so seized on that I had to cut the drums in two.  Even then, they were a bear to pry off.

Hopefully it doesn't come to this!  Good luck.

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Edited by Jeff G 78

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That was after at least an hour of heating, soaking, and hammering. In one of the pics you can see a pipe under the car. I was using a sledge hammer on the opposite side of the car to hit the pipe which was against the fins on the drum. Cutting the drum off was the only way I could get the car to move. There was no way I was going to be defeated!

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In the past I’ve been able to drill / tap a couple m8x1.25 holes 180* from each other, then use the bolts to push against the hub while forcing the drum back. Just alternate slowly between the two bolts, and some hammering in between to help break it free. It may not work in all cases but I would definitely try that before cutting. 

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14 hours ago, Patcon said:

Can you get to and turn the adjusters?

You might be out there beating, burning, and torturing things but make sure you do what Patcon suggested first,

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 I had one that had bonded the shoes to the drum. After a lot of frustration and no success, I screwed the lugnuts on flush with the stud ends and with the help of a 4 lb. hammer and several blocks of wood the studs came out. That allowed me to tip the drum back and forth and finally break it free from the shoes.

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14 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

Depending on how bad they are, it might require drastic measures.  I had one rusty old 280Z parts car that had been stored for about a decade and the drums were so seized on that I had to cut the drums in two.  Even then, they were a bear to pry off.

Hopefully it doesn't come to this!  Good luck.

DSC_1150.JPG
DSC_1155.JPGDSC_1156.JPGDSC_1158.JPGDSC_1157.JPG
DSC_1160.JPG

 

DSC_1152.JPG

How long was that Z at the bottom of the ocean Jeff?      I think I would “jack up the radiator cap and put a new car under it!”   

 

Edited by Diseazd

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On 2/7/2019 at 4:59 AM, Zup said:

As @Patcon suggested work on the adjusters and try to make sure they are retracted.

Keep it up with the block of hardwood and big f'in hammer. They can be a bear to remove, but should eventually break free. I hope you don't damage the fins--the finned cast aluminum drums are another neat aspect of our Z's.

I got one off. Now the other side.  Do you access the adjuster through the hole in the front of the wheel? 

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18 minutes ago, Diseazd said:

How long was that Z at the bottom of the ocean Jeff?      I think I would “jack up the radiator cap and put a new car under it!”   

 

LOL.  I bought the car in 1992 for $500 as a beater/parts car and drove it for about six months before parking it in my dad's garage.  Over the years, the garage roof rotted and leaked near where the car was parked so the garage was really damp all the time.  He built a nice new pole barn in about 2001 and the car was dragged (due to the locked rear brakes) into the new garage at that time.  I decided to retrieve the car in 2009 as a donor car for my race car build.  We stripped the good parts and cut the car up for scrap metal a few weeks after these pics were taken.  When we cut the car up, the RH side of the firewall was so rotten that we didn't even have to cut it.  The car literally had no good metal from the windshield to behind the seat on the RH side.  

Here's how bad the rot actually was in the car.  From the outside, it didn't look all that bad, but the underside looked like it had been on the Titanic.

DSC_1161.JPGDSC_1123.JPGDSC_1169.JPG

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Just now, Patcon said:

Now that's rusty!!!

It's amazing how many parts were still good though.  I am using the mustache bar, aftermarket swaybars and the front crossmember on my race car after I modified the pivot points.  I'm sure there are many others as well that I can't think of at the moment.  😎

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