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Hey I just joined here! IV been planning this build for  about 5 years now and finally been actively working on it in my free time here and there for about a year and a half! This is the first engine swap I have ever attempted and it now runs and drives! Next step is an exhaust system and then getting it on a Dyno for the standalone ecu to be fully tuned! Please ask any questions and im very open to suggestions as to what to do next, because it still is a bone stock 280z chassis... And that's not good due to the 400hp minimum I plan to make at the wheels. The engine is a 1jzgte out of a jzx90 the Toyota mark II , cresta , or the mark X as it's also refered to , basically it's the JDM version of  the Toyota Cressida that was sent to the states that I believe used a 5mge engine . Here is a list of all that I can think of that is done to the 1jz that is not stock!

 

Link g4+ monsoon stand alone ECU,Panic Wire harness,10lb flywheel, 264 cam shafts, Head ported (intake side only), Adjustable cam gears,

Eclutchmasters 6 puck unsprung clutch and pressure plate (stage 4)Drift Motion turbo kit Billet 6262 turbo (Garrett internals), manifold, wastegate tial replica, and 3" downpipe, Hks bov replica, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, 440cc injectors,Bosch 044 fuel pump, Arp head studs, rear sump oil pan conversion, Aem wideband
Short throw shifter, a/c and p/s delete (shortened serpentine belt and new ribbed pulley on tensioner),vvti coils wasted spark setup, CX racing intercooler 

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Edited by 1jzs30
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Yes thankyou! That's a really good idea! Never thought of that! This is exactly why I joined glad I did!  thankyou!

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I saw a lsd out of a turbo zx on eBay the other day but didn't have $500, those are rare tho otherwise I have thought of eventually doing the r200 out of the Subaru and obviously custom axles but money eventually though!

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You might want to check out Whitehead Performance. The LSD’s aren’t cheap but you will need it for that engine.

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The transmission is a w55 out of a 04 lexus is300 it was very clean as you can see in the picture only 20 thousand miles on it.  I've read these are good for about 350 hp, although it's the torque in higher gears in my opinion is what will kill a transmission. I feel 400hp would be safeish  keeping in mind stay out of it in higher gears at least and don't be goosing it in 3rd and winding out the whole gear, but  because the z is so much lighter than an is300 probably helps alot I would think

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10 hours ago, 1jzs30 said:

I saw a lsd out of a turbo zx on eBay the other day but didn't have $500, those are rare tho otherwise I have thought of eventually doing the r200 out of the Subaru and obviously custom axles but money eventually though!

$500 is cheap for an LSD and the Subaru route will set you back more than $500.

These cars take a lot of money to handle the kind of power you are talking about. In reality you really can't get it all to the ground with out a lot of work, maybe not at all. When you run that kind of power (approximately 4x's what the car had stock) you are going to break just about everything at some point. Unless you have 30-40k to put into it you should reevaluate your project. You basically have to re-engineer the entire car. My 2 cents

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Pretty much what Patcon said...
I am bulletproof proofing my driveline for 300hp and that puts me at the limit for stock components. Even then, I added an LSD.
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Hey Congrats,  I love a good engine swap and yours looks great, I can see all the work you have done to snug the engine in there and you have done some very good work.  Do you have any pics of the engine mounts?

But sort of like what Patcon said in post #9  you started with the fun, exciting part ( the engine) but really should have started with the hard part of the job, the re engineering of and old rubbery 280z.  Sure there are Z's out there with 800 hp but those cars have had considerable stiffening added or the 800hp is just bragging rights and the car is undriveable.

You might want to dial back the power until you have stiffened the car, wouldn't  want to put a permanent twist in the frame :facepalm:

Over on the Hybridz forum there are hundreds of threads that deal specifically with this topic,  here is a current thread, https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127659-another-datsun-zls3t56-swap-thread/

by Ironhead, he has done amazing work reworking the car to handle the power output of an LS engine. The easiest way to add strength and stiffness to your 280 is to add an internal roll cage that extends into the engine bay and back behind the rear wheels. Have a look through those 9 pages to get some ideas. 

Edited by grannyknot
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Thank you all for the replys and suggestions/ knowledge so far this is exactly what I needed/wanted! Money has and always will be the issue lol with that said I will definitely get that Ron Tyler designed diff mount, and once the car is tuned maybe keep the power around 300 for a while . And then work on suspension and disc brakes, than keep going from there slowly. I love this car, I have had it 11 years with the exception of trading it for a Supra and trading the Supra for another car than trading that car for my z back 6 months to a year later, obviously I can never get rid of it now and twisting the frame would be just awful! Exactly why I joined here I wasn't aware of what the car could or couldn't handle. Thank you!

Edited by 1jzs30
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And yea I almost didnt believe it when I saw that zx diff for 500 on eBay I was thinking that's probably open diff longnose r200 because the legit longnose  is so rare I believe it was legit but would it even hold up to 300hp without being rebuilt?  Definitely gonna check out Whitehead like wheee! Mentioned

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I would love to use the zx diff or whatever I can do to still use the longnose case so I don't need a new drive shaft .. again lol just dropped 500 to get this one made, all new drive shaft, not a mix of stock and new parts! Definitely gonna want better Axel's tho!

 

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This option seems like a good one.  A reputable manufacturer.  It's a carrier swap so a little more involved than a bolt-in Whitehead diff.  It's new, not used, although Nissan diffs seem to last many many miles with no issues.

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127169-mfactory-r200-helical-lsd/

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127169-mfactory-r200-helical-lsd/

Anybody noticing how you can't just paste a link anymore?  You have to use the little link function at the top.  Weird.  Sometimes a paste works sometimes it doesn't.

Edited by Zed Head
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The 1988 300ZX turbo diff was an R200 3.70 CLSD unit. Hard to find but great for up to 400 hp before you needed to rebuild the half-clutch pack to a full clutch pack.

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Add the RT style diff mount and she is good to go.

The factory half shafts will support the same amount of power no problem. But yes, CV’s are in the future!

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Awesome thanks guys! This is helping a lot!  And grannyknot,  here are some  pics of the mounts, pretty ghetto but got the job done, and iv always been intrigued by the use of the hockypucks, they actually feel great too! One stock mount on  passenger side of engine, mount to engine

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Edited by 1jzs30
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Not to be negative, but what stops the engine from moving sideways?  The bolts will have a large lever acting on them and there are no bolsters to keep it in place.  If you crank the bolt down on the puck then you'll have a solid metal path from engine to body.  You might find that you can get some movement just by hand if you grab the top of the engine and shake.

If you examine the stock mounts, from front to back, you'll see that they all have a break in the metal path, and they all have a back stop of metal in case things move.  Everything is floating on rubber.  Something to consider.  The transmission mount is considered the third engine mount by Nissan.

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1 hour ago, 1jzs30 said:

And grannyknot,  here are some  pics of the mounts, pretty ghetto but got the job done, and iv always been intrigued by the use of the hockypucks, they actually feel great too! One stock mount on  passenger side of engine, mount to engine

Thanks for the pics, simple is good.  Many years ago I put a Ford 302 V8 into a Triumph TR6 and just used hockey pucks between the engine and frame, noisy, lots of vibration but it was great fun.

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Nice! That's a pretty cool sounding swap!  Yeah I honestly haven't noticed any vibration  or weird noises from my motormount setup, then again I have only granny driven the car around for maybe 30-50 miles total since it's been running, due to the lack of exhaust and only running on a basemap right now not really tuned at all gets lean when I try to accelerate much or build any boost just needs a good tune on the Dyno, but also the straight 6 I hear are very balanced engines compared to V8 or v6 that probably helps a lot too

Edited by 1jzs30
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Thank you Zed head another thing I didn't consider too much! I wasnt able to move the engine side to side without lifting it with the crane first, and not at all after tightening them down but as far as the engine moving it's self under load while driving, I will definitely have to keep an eye on that !! Thank you for the thought! Although the only things I did not do myself on this whole build is design and Fab the motor and tranny mounts (I did do the square plates and hockypucks as I dropped the engine in) I had a friend shorten the water pump pipe and Grove it in a lathe for an oring for me. (Was made out of a 2jz water pump pipe that is 1/2 inch too long for a 1jz) and he unlocked, programed, and calibrated the ECU for first start up.

Edited by 1jzs30
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