Zed Head

You might be out there beating, burning, and torturing things but make sure you do what Patcon suggested first,

Here's some good stuff. http://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Technology/Adjustment-Guides/

That's the "take it or leave it" approach. Give a good comparison and you'll get more "take it"s than "leave it"s. Without a comparison, KYB's are a known quantity, the Koni's an unknown quantity. In today's world it's very possible that these "new" Koni's are just rebranded "other" shocks. It's the world we live in. Koni could just be a trademark. Today's world is littered with old well-known brand names on low quality parts. The more info supplied the more likely people will make the jump. Please don't reply with "I can assure you". Just data, it's all that matters. Good luck. They look promising.

Usually it's a two part problem. This is the second part. If you can get them to spin then spinning and pulling at the same time can get you started over the ridge. It's tedious and difficult. Pull, spin, wobble, pound....

Any chance you could post up the dyno plot? No offense, but that's the most interesting part to me. I assume it's a bone stock 280Z engine? That would be nice to know also. The number look about normal for a well-tuned L28.

You should post a link to the instructions so people know what's involved and how they work. Looks like some special bits involved. Also, are you selling the "proper" bump stops, or will people have to figure that part out on their own? I've seen where bump stops come with the Koni strut. They don't do that anymore? Nice to see some new options besides KYB and hard-to-get brands. @James@TheZStore

Here's a much cheaper one - https://injector-rehab.com/shop/Bosch-Denso-Pintle-Cap.html

I think that the tip of the plunger is called the pintle and it's often protected by a pintle cap. You can buy the pintle caps separately. I think that this link below, Z1Motorsports, might be a "Rick-roll" link. The header shows "never gonna give you up" but I have sound muted. Beware. Not sure why they call it a pintle. There's supposed to be a gudgeon involved. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pintle https://www.z1motorsports.com/fuel-rail-and-injectors/z1-motorsports/fuel-injector-cap-early-style-p-3225.html

The early factory injectors just squirt a stream. Pretty crude, disappointing. Volume and balance are the key, I think.

You should still measure resistance back to the battery, at least. I have a flashlight that only works if I unscrew the base slightly. It looks like it should have a nice solid ground but the bulb won't light until I loosen the cap on the bottom. Ironic.

Mass + inertia. Bang the top on the top of your work bench. Then shake it like a tiny shake weight. Here's a note from a guy who did a bunch of work on some Z stuff. He posted a lot back when the internet was just words on a blue screen. https://yarchive.net/car/injectors.html I have problems with the concept right off the bat because I've seen bosch injectors rust literally before my eyes after getting a bit of water in them. I have one here in which, being lazy, I dipped the tip in an aqueous solution in the ultrasonic cleaner. The pintle rusted and stuck literally before I could dry it. JGD]

Suction would act on on a very small area, the pintle seat. Probably not much force generated, atmospheric pressure on that small area. I've tapped some open, with a heavy screwdriver. You could probably just tap them upside down on a board or soft surface also. The spring holds the pintle down, the solenoid pulls it up. You might even just blast them with a full unresisted 12 volts, a tap at a time, maximum magnetic field. I know that people worry about having resistors in place but that's for current, which causes heat. A short full current blast won't overheat them. They still see 12 volts before they're grounded, they just don't see maximum current when the resistors are in place. Pretty sure you know all of that, it's just a reminder.

Is it a pub type brewery? Awesome place to display a Z. Have it behind some glass, a work-in-progress. People could come down just to check it out. Be careful with those tires. They look ready to blow.

Not the same kind of Z but the principles are the same. Hope yours runs better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymb36xGUC8c

Very nice. Somewhere around here there is a good writeup of things you should do before even trying to rotate the engine. Surprising amounts of water can condense in a cold engine and surprising amounts of rust can happen on what should be dry metal. Maybe somebody knows where that list is and will post a link. At least, pull the valve cover and check the camshaft for rust, drain the oil to see if there's water at the bottom of the pan, and squirt a bunch of oil in to each cylinder if you plan to try to turn it over. Plus, drain all of the old fuel out and look for rust. There's a drain plug on the tank. Almost no way that the fuel is good, but you might get lucky on rust. Drain the carbs too, if there's anything in them, they're probably gummed up with dried fuel residue. Probably need to rebuild them. Don't get in a hurry and spin the engine too soon. 25 years is a long time.

Can't remember if we talked about Pin 1 and the blue wire. No blue wire pulse, no injection. The first EFI book, 1975, even talks about pulling the ignition coil power wire several times, with the key on, and listening for the injectors on every third disconnection. I don't know if the later book describes that. It's a simple test of the Pin 1 blue/wire circuit and ECU function. No whirring starter motors to try to hear over.

Pretty sure it's the ground for the ignition module. They even show the little eyelet. From that point the path from the engine to the battery negative and alternator body needs to be good. A resistive ground circuit will cause weak spark. Always a good idea to measure ground circuit resistance when troubleshooting. It's commonly overlooked.

How about the ground wire? Maybe you left it disconnected. Might cause problems. Here's a picture of FastWoman's engine with an arrow.

Your best shot would be to dunk it in boiling for a few minutes to heat it up and to let it absorb water. They're nylon and nylon sucks up a lot of moisture which makes it softer. It will expand and be less likely to break. But if it is molded on there is probably cross-hatching or grooves to keep it in place.

I went out and looked and mine look like they were molded on. I've worked in some molding shops so am familiar. The ends don't look like the MSA unit at all. You can see where the plastic flowed over the end on mine.

Here's an old thread about it - https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/60419-halfshaft-length-and-r200-swap/

John Coffey had a nice writeup about this on his old Beta Motorsports web page. He even transferred it over to the Facebook of his new company when he shut Beta down. They compared a whole bunch of shafts to show that they're all the same length. The only reason for binding then is if there's less space between the hubs of a 240Z versus a 280Z. The 240Z hubs, actually the distance between the flanges, would actually have to thicker since the wheel bases are the same. That's the number that is still unclear. So, comparing the flange to flange distance of a 240Z rear axle to a 280Z rear axle might show something.

That's a good question. Kind of looks like it might be pressed on. Or molded. You might destroy it trying to find out. MSA's picture shows splines on the shaft. I have some old ones in the garage. Maybe I'll dig one out and see. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/21-7183

I just reported your post! Sorry. Should have given a chance to clean it up. At least get rid of the words that got through. @240260280

1978 has the "high energy" ignition system so you should get a strong blue spark. I damaged my GM HEI module by leaving two spark plugs disconnected by accident and starting the engine. Ignition modules are kind of sensitive. Yours is old too. Any chance you've created a big vacuum leak by accident? Damaged the hose from the AFM or knocked off a PCV hose? That would lean things out a lot. All hoses must be intact.