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Needing a 77 Throttle body complete.


rcb280z

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Looking for a throttle body and bcdd complete. A working bcdd. Long story short. I developed a vacuum leak at the bcdd that caused a 2500 rpm idle. After many attempts to repair, what I thought was wrong, I ended up installing a block off plate. Can't leave it that way, won't pass emissions. It has to be either a 77 or 78. These have 2 vacuum ports on the throttle body where 75-76 has one vacuum port. One port is for advance timing and the other is for the egr system. Hopefully someone has one. Here's a couple pics

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2.jpg

Edited by rcb280z
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Hmmm. Other things to consider...

In the later (latest?) years, 78 I think, they stopped putting the altitude correction nubbin at the bottom of the BCDD. Probably except for CA. So I don't know how detailed your visual inspection is, but you might need one from 77 or one from a CA 78 car. The final version still has an adjustment screw underneath, but doesn't have the bellows inside for altitude correction. Seems like the kind of thing that every state except CA would not have let them get rid of.

There's one of those stubbier BCDD throttle bodies sans altitude correction for sale right now in this thread:
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61556-280z-oem-parts-fuel-ignition-door-stuff-grill-etc/

DSC03982.JPG

Other thoughts? Again, not knowing how rigorous your CA inspection is, but the energetic Z owner could be able to disable the BCDD internally and prevent any leaks while still having it appear externally as though it's fully functioning.  Not that I would encourage such behavior, but if it's a trade off of selling the car out of state or driving it...     :ph34r:

 

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50 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

The FSM says you should be fine with just replacing the BCDD.  No need to do the TB too.

image.png

Yes long ago you could just remove the bcdd but due to age the gasket is extremely brittle and almost disintegrates when separating the two. I have tried on 2 others that's why my request. 

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6 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

energetic Z owner could be able to disable the BCDD internally

This will increase Hydro Carbons and you could possibly fail emissions. 

The block off plate does the same thing with one other mod. Really simple. But I did this so I could still drive it. If I were testing emissions right now I would fail visual or HC's or quite possibly both.

Edited by rcb280z
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Looks like I have one coming, already! I thought it was going to be harder to find.

Our good friend Wayne (wal280z) is shipping one out to me for just postage! 

Will post results and may even, time permitted, open up the entire non working bcdd to see what I can find. And just for fun.

There is another thread on it but I want to open mine up to compare.

Edited by rcb280z
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51 minutes ago, rcb280z said:

This will increase Hydro Carbons and you could possibly fail emissions. 

The only time the BCDD does anything to decrease emissions (reduce HC) is when you are coasting and have a high intake manifold vacuum. So unless they measure the HC while they are decelerating driving the car, or blipping the throttle and seeing what the HC's do while the RPM's are coming back down to idle, then the BCDD won't make any difference to your emissions test. Under steady state conditions like idle or 30mph steady cruise, the BCDD doesn't do anything and has absolutely no effect on performance or emissions or anything at all. Under steady state conditions, it's just a closed valve.

However... Don't get me wrong. I'm a tree hugger at heart and am glad to hear that you are proceeding with a plan that keeps your BCDD intact. Just clearing up some of the technicalities about the operation.

Oh, and Wayne is the man.

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Yes CO that is what they do, measure while on the dyno. They spin the drive wheels at 15 mph and at 25 mph in the smog test. And I have a complete understanding of its, the bcdd, operations. Or at least I claim to. I appreciate your expertise for sure.

 

 

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