Zed Head

I don't know if you meant it but that's pretty funny. Almost the smallest, least expensive part on the whole car. They did add some red PU bushings in other spots, for whatever reason. And it's actually compression. Sometimes people add the T, for tension,TC. Looks nice. A survivor that has good years behind it.

Thanks. I'd remove the hub and drop the "knuckle arm" myself. Clean it up and give it a good inspection. You only have to lift one corner. It might be fixable now but not after it breaks completely.

The seam between casting and tube can be seen from the side with the wheel at full lock. Take another picture.

A properly spec'ed and functioning fuel pump should have no affect at all on engine power. If it does, something is, or was, way out of whack. Don't try to piece-meal carb work. I think that you have to be even more methodical than working with EFI to get these carbs to work best. You're probably not going to find one big thing that makes things better. Good luck. Progress is good. Carry on.

No offense to Z car fans but the Z was, at the time, the economical, aka "cheap", sports car. The poor man's Maserati. Costs were minimized. There are other known manufacturing defects, like spindle pin bores drilled off-axis, causing excessive rear toe-in. I searched "240z bent strut" on Google and these three were on the first page. It's not common but not unknown either. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/39265-possible-bent-strut-or-spindle/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/108051-strut-bent/ https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754694-bent-front-struts

Did you get your parts from Europe or the states? You're right, EFI was mostly a states thing, for emissions. I think I've read about mysterious no injection notch N42's before. I had forgotten. I put my N42 on top of your E31. They look the same, cooling passage wise. The bores look different though. Might be another clue. The N42 would match an 86 mm bore.

That's too easy!

Or new carpet....

You could measure. Always a good idea. Carbs are supposed to have valves that determine when fuel is allowed into the float bowl. Flooding is usually caused by bad valves or bad floats. Food for thought after you bypass the old electric pump.

It's even hotter in Albuquerque.

Could be. A lot of dust to create that space. Maybe it's the actual head in the atlanticz pictures. After removing all of that material the chamber would be larger. So the head would need shaving to shrink it down. What's the head width, top to bottom? And still, probably 35 mm valves. There's not an extra 1.5 mm between the valves, I think. Post a full length shot of the head and the coolant passages can be compared. There are differences, I think. Causes lots of head gasket confusion. One of the valves is flipping us the bird...

Not so sure of that combustion chamber shape. And the valve measurements are supposed to be of the valve heads themselves, as I understand things, not the seats. It does look like a non-squish or open chamber though. Maybe another E88 or E31. Here's my bona fide N42 head. Look at the area by the plug, and between the valves. Looks like yours has more space between the valves even though you're measuring a bigger exhaust valve value. And the plug area looks different. That would be a lot of aluminum dust. Who knows.

Saw this on the Portland OR Craigslist. Not really a great place to search. https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/wan/d/wanted-my-old-1981-datsun/6664929227.html

You can stare at it for hours and the only reason that really fits well seems to be cosmetic. Just hiding that bolt. Probably bugged the heck out of some Nissan VP, "can't we do something about that ugly bolt head?", so they fabbed them up and stuck them on.

Parts get damaged. Sliding in to a curb, a big pot hole...

The reserve might be close to $4600 by the CL ad. He added some humor.

Thread locker. You could leave out the split lock washer entirely.

I'd be more concerned about the shank bottoming out. Easy to check though. A flat washer under the lock washer might solve both problems. With a dab of thread locker to be sure. Would make it look like the original as far as the functional bits.

The strut is a tube pressed in to a casting. Actually I might be wrong on the welding. They say that the spindle is attached to the "casing" then welded. Might be a translation error. Maybe the tube is just a press fit. Can't be sure. But that's where you want to look closely. The bottom drawing is from 1976 because it's more clear.

The fact that you got a change in that gap, to me, says that the base and tube joint is loose. It's supposed to be rigid, you shouldn't have been able to make it move at all. I'd get the angle right and have it rewelded. Maybe add a gusset like T3 does. Even if it doesn't fall off it's going to move while you're driving. Probably break eventually. I would not "leave it". Grab the top of the wheel and shake it or just shove the front of the car side to side and see if the gap changes. Maybe it will just fall apart and you'll have an easy decision. You should be able to see a clean gap at the intersection of the tube and casting, at the bottom, where the tube is moving in the casting. Use a bright light and take a look.

Congratulations. Maybe the new owner will show up here. Or not, considering.

This is not appropriate for this site. You should chill out.

Maybe I'm not the target. I just saw your other post TimN. Why are you even here? 2 posts and you were in somebody's face from the first one. Why don't you provide links to what you know?

The spindle that the bearings and wheel sit on are welded to the tube. At this point I think that you're looking for the cause of the damage. Here is an interesting picture from T3 showing the structure, but with a reinforcing gusset added. Maybe they know something. The only other possibility, it seems, is deep seated bearings. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/front-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z

Wrong guy.