Zed Head

Make sure the triggering mechanisms are in the same place before and after the swap. In this case you'd have to know how the electronic trigger works compared to the points trigger. It's a bit more than plug and play, more like like plug, fiddle around, examine and adjust, then play.

One more thing - the Nissan injectors just spray a thin stream, no cloud of vapor. So, your injectors might not be stock Nissan anyway. Have you checked resistance on them? Maybe somebody installed 16 ohm injectors. I looked back at your first page and I see voltage but not resistance. p.s. I have a set of OReilly Auto BWD injectors that I bought and ran for about a year. I also have the set of 78 Nissan injectors, old and rusty. I actually like them better. I could ship them out to you for not much. They're just sitting in my garage. I ran them on the engine and tested them, but switched to a different system when I was fighting hot-start issues.

The work is well done. Bummer though that nothing dramatic is showing up. Could be that the injector functions aren't right, that they aren't opening rapidly, maybe sticking at low frequency/RPM. That would be the benefit of a dynamic test. I showed my results from a set of injectors that actually worked well on the engine and they were much more unbalanced than those. So even though the volumes aren't balanced for yours the engine still shouldn't have the problems it does if it's just a clogging problem. Seems like a new set of injectors would be in order since those aren't flowing evenly. But, considering all, it might not fix the problem. But, it might. Or it might not. Who knows. For the record, the fuel pressure on the gauge is still too high, which partially explains why most of the injectors flowed over 94 cc. I have another set of injectors from a 1978 280Z that are old and rusty and sat on a non-running engine for 10 years. They flowed perfectly even at full flow, for all 6. Sorry you're not finding that smoking gun. If I had been there when you did that test drive in the video I would have cranked the potentiometer to high resistance to make sure that it wasn't a lean problem. Sometimes you just have to try stuff. Anyway, I don't think I'd put those injectors back on for a permanent fix. They're not right. Maybe for more testing though.

You still want to clean up the terminals to make sure that they have good contact. Nissan put them in a bad spot.

Should have posted a picture of what you're calling "jumped together" on your car, not someone else's fusible link covers. The fusible links look like jumper wires. Yours might be fine. Stole this from an eBay ad...

If you like it, buy it. Every car that any forum member owns here probably has 50 other members who wouldn't have bought it. Some members have never even driven their cars. Something for everybody here. Take a pocketful of cash over there and take it for a test drive.

I ended up using a fan wired in to the defrost circuit. It's a 20 amp circuit. A cheap Oreilly Auto fan got me by the first few years until I got all of my leaks fixed and things finally dried out completely.

The CL ad does have some of the typical buyer beware stuff in it. He wants a Z, just not this one. " I'm just testing the water's so to speak here, seeing if someone out there might be looking for a toy like this. I'm looking for a more Stock 240z to have and drive, is the only reason this is up for sale."

He made nice use of an older heating oil filter. I've not seen that before.

Build some low profile ramps, wide, out of wood and use them to get that 2" you need to get your bigger jack under there. Four fairly thin blocks of wood that you can stack in a corner. Throw them down, drive up on them, jack the car up and put them back in the corner. You don't need them when you drop the jack down. Just a thought. I bought a full size truck recently and it wasn't long before I built a wide platform from wood to stand on for engine work. It's the "down" side of trucks. I changed the oil yesterday with no jacks and no problems 'cause it's high. Then needed the wooden platform I built to stand on so I could refill it. And it's not one of those high risers, it's actually on the low side. Anyway, when you have extra wood laying around ideas come to mind.

Hope you're not like Carlos. Don't get in a rush. Texas has year round driving weather right?

That body has been fairly heavily modified. If he cut the fender wells for big tires the flares might be essentially permanent. The tail light panel looks like it's from a different brand of car, the round lights aren't ZX at all. Looks Toyotay. The parts list just looks like general tune-up stuff. Weird that the gas cap is missing in one of the pictures though. Makes you think it's not a daily driver. You'll spend a lot of time saying "I bought it this way"...

Which one of these are you in... https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=Salem+Township&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Without more history it's hard to say. If the car sat for 10 years then worked for a week after you got it running, is different than it's been a daily driver for 10 years that just got a new clutch. You can peel the dust boot off of the slave cylinder by hand. If it's full of fluid you'll know it's bad. Br careful it might have some pressure behind and squirt.

Here's a possibility, related to heat. That third pin on the ignition module is actuated by a thermal switch somewhere, I think. So it might actually be the ignition module. I think that you can test that by short-circuiting the switch or the module. You could explore that by examining the FSM chapter to see how, exactly, it works, in the meantime.

and post #9. No offense intended. Many of us have found that it's most effective to really dig in to examining and testing the parts first. Just saves time, money and effort in the long run. You can test resistance on the coil and the pickup coil in the distributor while it's in a "no-start" state. You have one of the unique opportunities where the part, whatever it is, stays "bad" for an extended period of time. So, start-die-test-test-test, until it starts again. Then repeat until you find the broken part. It's probably electrical so a multimeter and some time should do it.

About a week or two ago I noticed that he was logged in. I remember that he said he was having back problems about a year or more ago. Those can really mess you up. He's up in Seattle. @rossiz

I bought a ZX motor that had bolts on all of the manifold holes. No studs. I think that it's personal preference. It's much easier to get a nut on the stud from underneath the intake manifold than trying to insert a bolt in to a hole. One argument for studs is that when you put the final torque to it you're spinning steel threads on steel threads. With a bolt it's steel on aluminum. The same when you're removing them. Studs probably help avoid damaged threads. The four big bolts for the intake would probably make life difficult if you replaced them with studs. Never seen big studs used there.

Does it have a catalytic converter? They got rid of ZDDP to save the catalytic converters, along with lead in the gas. Might rethink the zinc in the oil. https://www.catalyticconverters.com/damage/

There's not much reason to take the pans off and clean them. Extra time and effort and could lead to unexpected problems and leakage. Do you know why it has been sitting? They all "ran when parked" but there must be a reason. Some simple things that you can do are to open the fuel line between the fuel filter and the rail and see if there's liquid fuel in it. See if it smells like gasoline or sweet kerosene. Or Pine Sol. If it's dry or the fuel is orange-red and smells funny the injectors could be gummed up. If it smells like gasoline they'll probably be okay. After you check the fuel tank for rust and old fuel, refill it with fresh gasoline then run the fuel pump to push the old fuel out of the rail and injectors and get it diluted with good new fuel. Or break the return line back by the tank and push the old fuel out. Check that the breaker plate in the distributor isn't rusted. If it is the bearing cage will probably break when vacuum is applied on the first engine start. Lube it up before starting. Pop the valve cover and see how much rust is under there. Condensation can produce a lot of moisture over time. If there's rust then one of the oils with zinc additive might be a good idea. Many people don't use it after break-in but better to be safe. Valvoline VR-1 is popular. I think that NAPA carries it. Check the air filter housing and intake tubing for mice nests. It's one of their favorite spots, besides the air vents in the cabin. Squirt some oil in the cylinders through the plug holes and let it coat the rings before spinning the engine. Some of the valves are always open when the engine is stopped so there will be at least two cylinders with some surface rust on the bores.

The Nissan studs are still available. You can even get them from Amazon. #18 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Axle/Front-Axle

I think it's mostly the volume. There was a thread very recently showing the inside of one of the water c ocks and you can see that it's a very small orifice, compared to the size of the water hose. The volume through the heater core is small. Connecting the hoses lets a large volume of coolant pass through the block then right back to the pump inlet. Big hoses. It would be like running a smaller water pump. Plus the coolant is hot from absorbing block heat but doesn't pass through the radiator or the heater core. So you end up with a large portion of the pump volume absorbing heat but not releasing it to the radiator. Somebody actually did some dyno runs with temperature measurements to show the effect. The infamous Tony D. The engine got much hotter with the hoses connected, than with them blocked.

If you're going to replace the shoes you might as well spray some WD-40 or squirt some oil inside and spin the wheel to get things lubed up. Even after you get them started they'll be hard to keep coming.

Yes, low amps = low heat. If yours are still on the factory harness don't forget about the dropping resistors. They're 6 ohm, so 8.4 ohms per injector, in use on the car. 1.4 A. Or, considering alternator voltage...14/8.4 = 1.7 A.

The NILES part might be a good part. It's a Japanese company, so not your typical aftermarket supplier. https://www.autopartsway.com/brand.cfm?brandname=niles