Zed Head
Community Member
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Zed Head
-
I didn't read back through all of the posts but this one and the following kind of suggests either an ignition module going bad, too many sparks causes too much fuel, or an ECU going bad. Tthey tend to go rich first then just die. You mentioned what what the tachometer needle was doing when it was starting to die. You talk about "roaming" and that's a sign of an ignition module dying. Mine showed a jumpy needle, reading high, as it was kicking the bucket. A $25 GM HEI module is a simple quick test, and always good to have around anyway.
-
Thanks GN. It was a fun project. I realized afterward that a person could probably bend a single piece of steel to fit the bolt positions on the side of the tunnel, then drill holes for mounting and the the GM mount. No welding, just good bending and 5-6 holes drilled. That Technoversion mount is a pretty nice piece of work. Hard to do it yourself for the same value.
-
I bought a 280ZX engine and it had bolts instead of studs. They looked factory. Seems like the basic question hasn't been defined. What are you trying to accomplish by changing from the factory setup? If you don't care about the studs getting pulled out why not just use thread locker?
-
If you want to get more "forensic" you can consider what happens when the engine runs and/or the car is driven. Road debris will hit the inside of the fender wells, PCV vapors will coat the inside of the manifold, the distributor cap and rotor electrodes will darken and pit, carbon will deposit on the spark plug threads and insulator. There's a bunch of small stuff that should look like new after just 350 miles. You might even find a 43 year old piece of gravel in a tire tread, or, the clincher, a pop-top from a soda or beer can.
-
If you look closely at the yokes, and the contact points, and its shape you can see that the design is kind of self-correcting, or self-leveling. Easiest to see on used parts. There are two sharp contact points with the manifolds and the surface under the nut is round, You probably want to maintain the sharp contact points to avoid putting a bending load on the stud. Polish up the rounded surface and make sure that the stud doesn't contact the inside of the hole. It's a very loose fit, so it can move, I assume. A crude looking thing with some serious ingenuity in it.
-
It won't stress the u-joint but it might lead to vibration due to u-joint misalignment. The transmission output shaft and the diff input shaft are supposed to be parallel within a few degrees. Most people don't have problems with it though, apparently it's "close enough".
-
If you use self-locking nuts they'll probably pull the studs out on the next removal. Nissan did not even use lock washers. Actually, they didn't even use flat washers, where the yoke was used. Stud, yoke, nut was all of it. The mismatched flange thickness is the standard problem with headers. John Coffey suggested cutting flat washers in half and tacking the pieces on to the header flange as a fix. Requires a welder of course, but it was a simple and effective solution. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Engine-280Z/Manifold-Egr/From-Aug-76
-
Blowing the loose dirt off with light air pressure should be okay, or brushing.
-
-
The old way of telling if an odometer had turned over was to see if the 0's were on the same line. Yours look pretty good. Seems like the more fundamental question might be "were all of the 280Z's delivered from Nissan perfect on arrival". That seems to be the assumption for people critiquing yours. Who knows.
-
Can anybody read this? Good data right there. Engine serial number, etc. Build date is on the door jamb tag. Lots of highly suspicious people out here. Nissan made mistakes on these cars, but it looks like it what the guy says it is, to me. Why are the intake manifold bolts orange? OMG, it's been molested...
-
It might help your thought process to realize that the head "gasket" is actually three gaskets in one. The metal cylinder sealing rings, the copper oil passage sealing rings, and the composite water passage sealing material, that also positions and holds the other two seals together. Consider each one separately.
-
I just noticed that it also has the diagonal "Datsun" emblem on the hatch over 280Z. My 1/76 build has the horizontal "Datsun" over the 280Z. The paint code looks like an ink stamp put on either before or after painting. Maybe it's an error and adds value, like a miscoined coin.
-
It will still have the usual problems of surface rust in the engine bores and corrosion in the hydraulic system. Both are open to the atmosphere through open valves and vents. Don't try to start it without getting it ready to start, and even if the brakes and clutch work they'll probably fail quickly. Good luck, nice find. You could probably flip it to a museum or collector and use the money to buy a drive-ready car.
-
If he hasn't put a wrench on at least one to try and remove it, it's all conjecture. There are many grades of SS. Just don't know enough to say either way. Has anyone broken a stud when it's free and clear like these? They break when they're under tension, clamping, but I've never broken one when it was exposed like that. Good luck CO. I can't imagine that you'll leave those monstrosities in there after the work you put in to that valve cover bolt hole. Doing one but not the other doesn't fit inside the same brain. The manifold clamping is much more important than clamping a valve cover down. Hence my zip ties joke. It's been 8 hours, they're probably all out by now...
-
On the other hand, if they are so weak that they can't take a little torque then they'll probably break in use. The only bolts I've broken are the thermostat housing bolts. I've has studs that were difficult to remove but I was more worried about pulling the aluminum threads out of the head than breaking the stud. Beside that, aren't they too tall to clamp? They don't look fully threaded. Unless they're made from cut pieces of all-thread. Did the PO have a stack of washers under the nut?
-
There are only two oil passages and they have their own copper seal. The copper probably contacted the surfaces before the sealant started squeezing too much since they have some crush to them. The sealant won't cause any deterioration once it sets up. The non-hardening ones use ethanol as a thinning agent and that's gone almost before you assemble. Probably not a concern, although "it couldn't hurt" is concerning all by itself. That's where many problems start...
-
What brand? Most have instructions on the old internet.
-
A couple of threads about the green stuff. http://www.fidanza.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/NEW-GREEN-COATING-ADDS-STYLE-PROTECTION-.pdf Not sure where this guy ended up -
-
I'll bet he did it so that he could replace the intake/exhaust gasket without removing the exhaust manifold, or just to make it easier to install. Or he got those from the hardware store and that's all they had, and he didn't have a hacksaw handy. If you decide to replace them beware the odd nut sizes from some of the kits out there. Some use a 12mm and some use a 13.
-
You might have more than one problem. The Fidanza flywheels are known to stick the disc to the flywheel, that green coating doesn't always wear off like it's supposed.to. So it might be that one problem is the sleeve height and the other is the flywheel coating. If you take it apart again, we can show you what to measure and what to check, like Eurodat suggests. Here's a few threads about the 92 mm meausrement - https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=oswsXdywKfGCk-4Pnuid8As&q=site"classiczcars.com+92+mm&oq=site"classiczcars.com+92+mm&gs_l=psy-ab.3...1010.9742..10494...0.0..0.83.1539.27....3..0....1..gws-wiz.....0..0i131j0j0i22i30j0i13j0i13i30j0i13i5i30j0i8i13i30j0i8i13i10i30j33i160j33i299.qjmk9MsnnnM
-
Sleeve/collar, not bearing. The sleeves are different. Sometimes called collars. Look at Post #9 here - https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58235-trans-id-help/ Don't pay any attention to the years and models of the cars described, it's the pressure plate and sleeve that matter.
-
You do know that you can daisy chain zip ties, right?
-
We've produced several threads describing the measurements you should take to be sure your parts will work correctly, before installing them. 92 mm. Not clear what you mean by the fork is "hitting" the bell housing. Also not clear which throwout bearing sleeve/collar you're using. You put the old pressure plate in but did you use the old sleeve? There are a bunch of bad combinations of sleeve and pressure plate out there. Clutch problems are common with the Z's. You're doing a lot of stuff but not providing much info to work with. Numbers. Good luck.
-
So it's the US government then... You're saying that the US government should control the behavior of US companies. Like in China.
