Zed Head
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Everything posted by Zed Head
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They're not there for their beauty. You will be compromising. But not much.
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Bend it to where it needs to be. If it breaks loose, fix it. If it's solid with no loose joints then it's not failing. It's just bent.
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Doesn't look you've run the tests described in the FSM or the Fuel Injection book. You need to do those tests, at the ECU connection. Even new parts can be bad. It's the first thing mentioned in hundreds of threads, so many times that we often forget to say it again. Get a meter and do the tests. The ECU could be bad also, but without testing the other parts, it's an expensive guess.
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One trick I've used to verify maximum travel of the master cylinder piston is to adjust the rod so that the clevis pin slides in to the pedal bushing with no effort. If you have to pull the pedal down or push the rod in or pull the rod out to get the clevis pin in then it's not right. While you're there you can eyeball the pin and the hole for wear. I've also used a thread to pull the clevis pin up to the hole so that I can finagle it in the rest of the way with a screwdriver. I can't get my hands up there.
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I think that number is in the "Rebuild" book. Mine is boxed up right now otherwise I'd find the page. The MSA page says 7 thousandths, but they don't give a reference for the number.
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Your instincts seem on target. Fuel pressure should climb rapidly to the FPR limit. Back (front) firing out of the intake manifold is the "lean mixture" sign. Fuel pressure leak-down means that either your FPR or your pump check valve are bad, or leaky injectors. A good system should hold pressure, at least 20-30 psi for weeks or months. Are you using starting fluid just to be sure that timing is right, in between your fuel system troubleshooting?
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Get a friend and have them push the pedal while you watch the fork move. Use 1/4, 1/2, and all the way to see if pedal = fork movement. Don't assume that new aftermarket parts are good. Many of us have had reman parts fail right out of the box. Examine the clutch fork and the way it sits on the pivot carefully. You might have some other odd problem at the fork. People often get the fork seated incorrectly but usually figure it out right away. Diseazd, please stop chewing your toe nails. You might get appendicitis.
- 27 replies
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- 240
- advice
- clutch
- drivetrain
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Core plugs. My thought on the coolant passage flushing is that you're just blowing out stuff that settled in a dead zone. No flow. You should get the "How to Rebuild.." book. Lots of good stuff in it. Also, ponder what, exactly, happens when a head is milled. Bottom alone, or top and bottom. What about cam tower alignment if the head is warped? Aren't they out of alignment also? https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-1151
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Sounds like a sticky thermostat. Mine used to fluctuate, even though it tested okay in hot water. A new Nissan unit gave a steady temperature reading.
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The collar needs to match the height (thickness) of the pressure plate. With aftermarket parts you can't really define by 240Z, 280Z, Zx, 2+2, etc. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,transmission-manual,clutch+pressure+plate,1988
- 27 replies
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- 240
- advice
- clutch
- drivetrain
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I'm going to guess it's a 280Z? The other reason for cold air is a loss of vacuum at the AC control bottle. Pretty common. Split hoses. The vacuum woter cack (water ****) is normally closed.
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Die glass filter, die! Burn in hell!!!
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I would start one thread and stay on it. You covered your fuel pump problems in a different thread but that's not mentioned here. Try starting fluid. And remember that "turn over" and "crank" mean the same thing, it's what the starter does, and that "fire" means the engine is trying to run on its own.
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I agree. I had actually written something about how his 8 to 10 minutes might actually be 3 -4 in real time. On the other hand though, there are other possible causes for that. A ballooned fuel supply line maybe. Once it expands and the pump check valve closes, it's a small reservoir of fuel. So it might be true but it's a sign of a bigger problem, a line about to explode. He should really examine his fuel lines, front to back.
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I've seen people report the engine running with the pump off before. If you have elastic rubber lines they can hold some pressure. Idle doesn't use much fuel. If it's running rich, then it will slowly go from rich to lean as fuel pressure drops. There's an assumption that fuel pressure will be zero if the pump's not running (no offense Dave), but that might not be the case. A gauge reading would tell more. The pump not running results suggest that the FPR is not the reason for the rich running. Could be a bad ECU or a stuck AFM. The other part of your first post, above, is kind of typical of either of those.
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Your problem is pretty common and probably easy to solve. But you'll have to give more details if you want more specific ideas. On the other hand, it is fun to test all of the many possible causes. Fuel pump, fuel filter, gas quality, injectors, ECU signal wire from coil, vacuum leaks, EGR system, relays, etc. A lot of high quality garage time there. Good luck.
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What's on the rag? Gasoline? "Aerosol" means it's in the air. Weird that somebody chose "soaked rag" to mean aerosol. You're describing some sort of procedure but the words don't fit. No offense. There's no "ignition pack" on a ZX. Did it run for 10 minutes after you took the rag off or did it run for ten minutes with the rag on, then died when you took the rag off? Still no details on how long you've had the car, and if it ran before you got it. Might just be that there's very old gasoline in the tank. Old gas causes problems.
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Try turning the engine off then pulling the hose. Just to see if it's wetter, the engine vacuum won't pull through the hose with the engine off so any leakage should still be there. The fact that it runs better when you turn the pump off is a sign that it wants a leaner mixture though. Seems like you need a new FPR. Edit - if the FPR is leaking you might see some drops at the hose nipple for the vacuum source, on the FPR itself. Run the fuel pump with the vacuum hose off.
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What does "take the rag off" mean? What happened when you tried to start it again after it ran for 10 minutes? Does it restart with "aerosol"? Seems like you almost have the problem solved already. You need to supply a lot more details, like if the car was supposed to run when you got it, or if it sat for a long time.
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It wouldn't be a vacuum leak, but you'd be sucking fuel straight through the FPR. Vacuum on one side of the diaphragm, fuel on the other. It's a flexible fabric that gets old and cracks. A small crack can let a lot of unmetered fuel into the intake manifold. Not uncommon.
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Check the vacuum hose to the FPR for raw fuel. Could be a hole in the diaphragm.
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Are you sure it's not a grinding wheel bearing? Chunks of bearing. How does it sound if you get the wheel off the ground, put the trans in neutral and spin the wheel?
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I think that the EFI system engines always sound like they have a miss at idle. Because all 6 injectors open at the same time and each cylinder is at a different point in it's 4 cycles. They don't all get the same type of fuel-air charge. I think that it leads to incomplete combustion in some cylinders and that's why the manufacturers developed sequential injection for idle and low RPM. You'll know more when the engine is under load. Good luck.
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Does the engine stumble or lag when it backfires? Some people call it "frontfire". Sounds a bit like the "lean" problem that many of us have fixed by adding a potentiometer in to the coolant temperature sensor circuit. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html
