Zed Head

That tells you that the binding is at the throttle linage on the manifold, not at the cable or the pedal. You can extend the the thought process and push on the linkage with your finger. Open the hood and poke around and you'll probably realize something. Your picture shows that you have quite a bit of slack in your cable. Seems like a good tune of the overall system might help. Lots of adjustable bits there.

If you pull the pedal up with your toe does that solve it? Fast idle means air is getting from somewhere. B;ipping the throttle just lets the blades slam shut instead of sticking on a slow close.

What is torn up about it? Do you think the cap won't fit correctly? If it's solid in the hole, the clip fits the cap on the inside. The outside of the yoke can be pretty ugly with no ill effect. It's the inside surface that really matters. I think that Terrapin Z might have some but he is in Washington state. Pretty sure that the R200 halfshaft parts will work fine also, doesn't need to be from an R180. @Terrapin Z

I have to commend your initiative in just diving in and taking action. Obviously you know a lot about how things work. I've found myself well down a path I wondered about taking before. If it happens again at least you'll know what it's not. Maybe.

Get on to Rockauto and browse. They have lots of pictures, you might see a critical clue. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1990,240sx,2.4l+l4,1208977,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper,1704 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1985,maxima,3.0l+v6,1211252,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper,1704

You're asking people to interpret your memories and compare to their memories.. A picture might be better.

I just noticed that the FSM never really says to have the timing mark at zero when installing the oil pump. It must be assumed that things are done directly after installing the timing chain. No wonder so many people have problems. They left out the most important part, for people doing only the oil pump work.

Your timing mark is the crankshaft position. You installed the oil pump gear in the wrong position. Best to take the oil pump back off and reinstall it and the distributor drive quill correctly.

What was the measured fuel pressure when the problem happened? Does the engine have EGR? It's hard to solve problems with the EFI system unless you're very methodical, or lucky.

How about drilling the other end of the pin, threading it, and using a slide hammer?

Not so sure about your grammar there, wal. You said $5K is just too much for a non-EGR intake, but now you seem to be saying the non-EGR is better. You said "non-EGR" in a negative fashion,. "too much" is a negative, now you're saying "NON EGR " in a positive fashion, "less parts to replace" is a postive. Were you using sarcasm? No big deal, I'm just not understanding what you wrote first, then your reply to your own writing.

Is that a Craigslist find? Looks like it was already out and sitting. Rusty flywheel. Looks complete. Those EGR pipes and parts can be valuable. They tend to get mangled on removal.

What did you get? Just curious. Lots of 11mm options out there.

This is how you end up with extra parts in the garage. Somebody go get these. Sale!

Have you tried sliding the striker back and forth, hard, to loosen it up? You could also double-nut the threads and give it some hard twisting. If I know the shape it's a wedge that should pop free if stressed right.

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62642-removing-280z-thttps://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62642-removing-280z-tail-housing/ail-housing/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62642-removing-280z-tail-housing/

X-acto knife or similar, a metal pick tool maybe, to pull them back out? m One of those 90 degree metal picks would probably grab an edge. Or a broad sharp chisel to lift the edges and just break them apart. Just to be sure, you do know that the small center pin, the one mm wide part, is the part that pushes through? Leaving a loose fastener in the hole.

It could be a 300ZX R200. That' what they look like. Bit so do all of the other R200's. Loosen the locknut and turn the end link. I think that's a custom-made control arm setup. Looks pretty well-made though. Decent welds and stout design.

It looks like an R200 by size, shape, and the lack of the bolt-on plate on the sides. But the internals and the back cover are all interchangeable so you won't really know what type of limited slip, assuming it is, unless you take the cover off and look.

#4 looks like the only oily cylinder in your first picture. from the picture of the head. Odd problem. Your valves don't look like they're getting very hot either. Have you had it out for a good run at temperature or are you babying it because it's new? Could be a stuck oil scraper ring. It happens, from what I've read. The cure for stuck rings is hard usage of the engine. These engines like to be used.

I think that he's had his car for a while and drives it often. Maybe the relief valve in the pump did get jammed. Who knows. But he's in the "might as well" zone now. Might as well do some work on the head while it's off. Might as well check that oil pump for wear. Might as well put a high performance cam in it. Might as well buy another engine so I can work on this one....

So, "now what?" is the question.

It might help to get in to the basics of the engine and its lubrication system. There is no "pressure" that would force oil in to the combustion area. High oil pressure might lead to high oil volume, flooding the top of the cylinder head, but there is plenty of room for the oil to flow back to the crankcase. You could have excess oil flowing through the main bearings, splashing up n to the cylinder walls as it gets thrown off, but the oil scrapers would have to be seriously overwhelmed to have that oil get ni to the combustion area. In short, oil pressure and smoke from the exhaust are not connected. It's actually more likely to see low oil pressure and smoking on a worn engine, with worn valve seals, than on a low mileage engine with high pressure and good valve seals. The two problems could be coincidental but there's probably no cause-effect relationship.

Could be that the guage in the dash wasn't reading right. It seems possible that the oil pressure was never really too high. When you installed the gauge on the engine block you disconnected the dash gauge. The high oil pressure reading might be a coincidental distraction from the real problem.

You didn't give any "higher" numbers so the 60 psi that follows has no point of reference. It is possible for oil to pass the rings and still get good compression. The oil scraper rings and the compression are two different sets of rings, with different functions. Not really clear what the "problem" is. High oil pressure or running rough or smoking. Seems like you're assuming that high oil pressure is going to cause problems. Reminds me of all of the effort I spent trying to solve a "problem" on an old muscle car in high school. In the end it just need a new set of plugs and points. No offense, you described several things happening but they might not be connected.