Zed Head

Weird, I looked on that page but didn't notice it. It's just hanging out there in space with no reference to it at all. Like a giant typo.

What's the voltage? You might have a bad regulator. More volts = more current = more heat.

Nissan used the first three numbers to distinguish between manual and auto. D611 and D612. They're both -54. Just an observation. That would put -53 at late 72 or early 73. Or not a Z car.

D612-53 might not be a US market model. Take it apart and look at the numbers on the weights if you want to know more. -53 seems to be about 1973 . Might not even be a Z distributor, could be any L series engine of that time period. 1973 FSM numbers - Yours -

Was he pounding or using a press? I got fooled on one because the pin was actually stuck in the ribber bushing. So it would move in the cast housing when I pounded on it but the bushing would pull it back. Looked it was stuck in he housing but it was stuck in the bushing. You can put a lug nut on the end of the pin and spin it. Same thread. This will break up rust and get some lubricant moved around. In the end though, many people cut it like he wants to do.

You need to remove all of the clips. I think. It becomes clear as you press the joints out. You do press on the end caps but you really need a good fixture to do it right. Sometimes people bend the yokes trying replace the u-joints, then the whole half-shaft might be ruined. If you're near an auto shop they might press them out for you for a small fee and it might be worth it. They can be very very tight. I had to use heat on mine to get some of them out. It's a simple job in concept but difficult in practice.

They actually have a little bit of carbon buildup starting on the exposed metal at the ends of the threads. Where it's cold. The insulators look good and so do the grounding straps. You can see some ash on the grounding straps and a little color on the insulators. They'll be nice and tan in a few hundred miles.

Depends on what your "matter" criteria are. This sub-discussion is really just about people's opinions of how they like their engines to run. But the PCV valve is an interesting thing. Why are there are so many models of them? They all look about the same.

I think that we're just disagreeing on levels. It's a matter of degree. Tolerating and running clean aren't the same. Many of us have felt that our engines run just fine but they won't pass emissions. The system tolerated the dirty coolant sensor connections or high fuel pressure or whatever the problem was. I like what wheee! is doing but there is a small bit of irony in having a catch can to keep the oil out but possibly running rich at time and carboning up the combustion chamber. But, it's a matter of what you want. The whole point of EFI was to be cleaner. Carbs worked fantastically, but were dirty. Good old Holley double pumpers, squirting loads of extra fuel whenever you hit the pedal. I can nasalize the smell...

Nissan used internal clips. Similar concept except the groove is in the u-joint bearing cap. It's an external circlip instead of internal. On the other side of that yoke in your picture. Don't get them mixed up if you plan to reuse the u-joints. They are precisely ground and come in various thicknesses. Nissan u-joints are very durable, high precision pieces. Better than new aftermarket, in my opinion.

Lots of things "work". Without good feedback of air flow to the Haltech computer the system will vary between lean and rich. I think that it will not be a clean-running engine. Kind of like a carbed engine. EFI is about precise air flow measurement and metering of fuel appropriately. I'm saying that it could be better. Haltech sells Haltech.

With the passage to the intake manifold open at the PCV valve there will always be high flow through the crankcase to the valve. The valve cover is really just an air filter for that unmetered air. It's only going to act as a vent if blow-by overwhelms the PCV valve. All I'm really saying is that the PCV system was not designed for constant high flow rates. It's a giant vacuum leak with the breather on the top. Sorry, I'm a little bit robotic on the logic stuff. How much oil do those guys catch in their catch cans?

If the PCV valve is still connected you'll have a straight shot of outside unmetered air through the valve cover and through the crankcase to the intake manifold, carrying oil vapors with it. The system is designed to be balanced, with only metered air or combustion byproducts in the intake manifold. Better, I think, to block the PCV valve opening and just use the breather as a vent, like it was in the old days. As the engine wears and you get blow-by you might find the breather blowing oil vapor at high revs. Or even early in break-in while the rings are seating.

It would be essentially moot. The ZX distributor has the same functionality, in a smaller package. They're both "high energy".

Since you've found it you might as well check its continuity to the coil's negative terminal. You can do that by turning the key on and checking for voltage at the female part of the bullet connection after removing the resistor. It's more likely that you just have a bad tach though.

It looks like this, below, but if it's intact it will just be a squarish lump in the wiring harness. If the harness is broken open and you only see the wired piece, with the bullet connector bare, you'll know.

Might be for assembly in the factory or servicing. A lifting bracket might install there.

It's a "knockoff", not actually made by Standard Motor Products. The eBay ad is a lie. The one on Rockauto shows a true manufacturer, Ultrapower. The eBay ad says SMP, but is false. Notice how they avoid defining "manufacturer" and instead use part number or brand. It's a con and eBay is enabling it.

I edited Post #19. It's the front case that causes the rods to move.

It's a performance modification, adding an extra head bolt. The PO is actually an expert in Z engines.

This is not the same as after it's together.

Lots of good ideas here but they all say the transmission will probably need to be removed to find out. It's still not even clear that the gear shift lever moves. The OP hasn't described moving the lever. It might not even have a lever. Trans rebuilt, installed, key turned to Start car jumps, clutch pushed in car doesn't. That's all we really have. The only conclusion is "transmission stuck".

That looks like the right part but I think it's a scam like "New" alternators. It should be flagged as deceitful on eBay. Look at the words and compare it the real part on Rock Auto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=LX516

Using a block of wood is a good idea. I've messed around with removing and replacing those pins and they are difficult. You can build a little holding jig, two blocks of wood next to each other, to sit the piece in the groove between, to keep it from rolling. Filing the end of the pin down to a sharper point to give it a better start helps also. The end of the pin doesn't matter once it's installed.