Zed Head
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Everything posted by Zed Head
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I just noticed that it also has the diagonal "Datsun" emblem on the hatch over 280Z. My 1/76 build has the horizontal "Datsun" over the 280Z. The paint code looks like an ink stamp put on either before or after painting. Maybe it's an error and adds value, like a miscoined coin.
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It will still have the usual problems of surface rust in the engine bores and corrosion in the hydraulic system. Both are open to the atmosphere through open valves and vents. Don't try to start it without getting it ready to start, and even if the brakes and clutch work they'll probably fail quickly. Good luck, nice find. You could probably flip it to a museum or collector and use the money to buy a drive-ready car.
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If he hasn't put a wrench on at least one to try and remove it, it's all conjecture. There are many grades of SS. Just don't know enough to say either way. Has anyone broken a stud when it's free and clear like these? They break when they're under tension, clamping, but I've never broken one when it was exposed like that. Good luck CO. I can't imagine that you'll leave those monstrosities in there after the work you put in to that valve cover bolt hole. Doing one but not the other doesn't fit inside the same brain. The manifold clamping is much more important than clamping a valve cover down. Hence my zip ties joke. It's been 8 hours, they're probably all out by now...
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On the other hand, if they are so weak that they can't take a little torque then they'll probably break in use. The only bolts I've broken are the thermostat housing bolts. I've has studs that were difficult to remove but I was more worried about pulling the aluminum threads out of the head than breaking the stud. Beside that, aren't they too tall to clamp? They don't look fully threaded. Unless they're made from cut pieces of all-thread. Did the PO have a stack of washers under the nut?
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There are only two oil passages and they have their own copper seal. The copper probably contacted the surfaces before the sealant started squeezing too much since they have some crush to them. The sealant won't cause any deterioration once it sets up. The non-hardening ones use ethanol as a thinning agent and that's gone almost before you assemble. Probably not a concern, although "it couldn't hurt" is concerning all by itself. That's where many problems start...
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What brand? Most have instructions on the old internet.
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A couple of threads about the green stuff. http://www.fidanza.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/NEW-GREEN-COATING-ADDS-STYLE-PROTECTION-.pdf Not sure where this guy ended up -
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I'll bet he did it so that he could replace the intake/exhaust gasket without removing the exhaust manifold, or just to make it easier to install. Or he got those from the hardware store and that's all they had, and he didn't have a hacksaw handy. If you decide to replace them beware the odd nut sizes from some of the kits out there. Some use a 12mm and some use a 13.
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You might have more than one problem. The Fidanza flywheels are known to stick the disc to the flywheel, that green coating doesn't always wear off like it's supposed.to. So it might be that one problem is the sleeve height and the other is the flywheel coating. If you take it apart again, we can show you what to measure and what to check, like Eurodat suggests. Here's a few threads about the 92 mm meausrement - https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=oswsXdywKfGCk-4Pnuid8As&q=site"classiczcars.com+92+mm&oq=site"classiczcars.com+92+mm&gs_l=psy-ab.3...1010.9742..10494...0.0..0.83.1539.27....3..0....1..gws-wiz.....0..0i131j0j0i22i30j0i13j0i13i30j0i13i5i30j0i8i13i30j0i8i13i10i30j33i160j33i299.qjmk9MsnnnM
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Sleeve/collar, not bearing. The sleeves are different. Sometimes called collars. Look at Post #9 here - https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58235-trans-id-help/ Don't pay any attention to the years and models of the cars described, it's the pressure plate and sleeve that matter.
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You do know that you can daisy chain zip ties, right?
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We've produced several threads describing the measurements you should take to be sure your parts will work correctly, before installing them. 92 mm. Not clear what you mean by the fork is "hitting" the bell housing. Also not clear which throwout bearing sleeve/collar you're using. You put the old pressure plate in but did you use the old sleeve? There are a bunch of bad combinations of sleeve and pressure plate out there. Clutch problems are common with the Z's. You're doing a lot of stuff but not providing much info to work with. Numbers. Good luck.
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So it's the US government then... You're saying that the US government should control the behavior of US companies. Like in China.
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Have you popped the slave cylinder dust cover to check for fluid?
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This is a big clue. More bleeding probably won't help. Something is getting hot. Could be fluid, could be seals, Not likely mechanical, there's not much to the pressure plate and disc.
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Home Depot and Amazon are the biggest drug dealers in the world by that theory. Two giant American companies.
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Sounds like you might have one of your hydraulic lines next to a heat source. The exhaust manifold or headers.
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That's a new one. How about chimping? Which is worse...
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Edit - actually I can't tell what you're measuring. I measure to the bolt head. Edit 2 - it looks though, like your fork is bottomed out on the hole it sits in. Can't go any farther. This is at rest, no foot on pedal.
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It's kinda looking like you might have a ZX or Maxima engine, or head, in your 78 280Z. They use a cylinder head temperature sensor in place of the water temperature sensor. It does the same thing and has the same temperature profile. Those engines also had several extra temperature switches on the T-stat housing. Take a picture of your engine's serial number area, and the head ID area. You'll know more about what you're working with.
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There are several threads out there about Pertronix quality diminishing over the years. New modules dying, while thirty and forty year old modules spark on.
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Don't confuse from with function. If it doesn't leak then, technically, it's fixed. If you can get the hole properly aligned and threaded so a valve cover bolt works correctly, then, technically, the problems are solved. You could be heading down a worm hole trying to fix something that is only aesthetic.
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I think that you might be measuring power at the injectors incorrectly. Looks like you're probing across the pins in each connector instead of from a single pin to a ground point. The fact that your tach doesn't move and it starts with fluid implies that the Pin 1 circuit from the coil to the ECU is broken. Check Pin 1 continuity to the coil Or you have a funky ignition system like a an MSD or Crane. They don't work well with the 280Z EFI.
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Measure each end and you'll also get an idea of the tolerances for an individual head. If they're not tight within a head, they won't be tight across many heads.
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What's the backstory on the car? I wonder how deep the PO got in to the engine.
