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SteveJ

Patton Machine Fuel Injection

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Having done what I hope is enough research, I have started down the road on my next off-beat modification. I decided to pull the trigger to go with the Patton Machine fuel injection kit on my 260Z. I still think I'm going a little lean at times at the top end with my current SU setup, and I hope this will remedy that situation. 

The cost appears to be less than sourcing a non-egr FI intake, AFM, MS setup, etc., and it seems to be nicely sorted out.

I'll try to remember to take a lot of photos for posting. I hope to get the setup in March.

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One of the important things to integrate into the fuel injection ECU is the coolant temperature sensor. Since the 260Z doesn't have one, I need to figure out how to incorporate this sensor. 

  1. Use a 280Z coolant temperature sensor in the port occupied by the temperature switch. (The consensus is that it won't fit.)
  2. Use a 3/8 BSPT male to 3/8 NPT female adapter to put the sensor in the port occupied by the temperature switch. (I got the adapter. It doesn't look like it will fit.)
  3. Use a 1/2 BSPT male to 3/8 NPT female adapter to put the sensor in the port that is currently plugged. (This still seems viable.)
  4. Take advantage of the CHTS port in the Maxima N47 head and use the Nissan CHTS in lieu of the coolant temperature sensor.

In order to do number 4, I have to know whether the sensors have similar resistance curves.

The 82 FSM EFEC section provided me the CHTS curve. Based upon a measurement I took today, I think the middle curve is the one I need to focus on.

CHTS resistance curve.jpg

And a little searching on the interwebs gave me a data sheet on the GM coolant temperature sensor.

GM Coolant Temperature Sensor.jpg

Unless I am misinterpreting the FSM curve and the table, I believe I can use the CHTS for the temperature sensor data for the ECU.

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10 hours ago, SteveJ said:

The 82 FSM EFEC section provided me the CHTS curve. Based upon a measurement I took today, I think the middle curve is the one I need to focus on.

The middle line is the "typical" (perfect) measurement. and the outside lines are range "limits".

So if you are designing a system, you should probably aim for typical (halfway between max and min), but since any sensor you might purchase could be anywhere between those two points, you have to either characterize the sensor and trim the system for that sensor, or your system needs to be able to work acceptably with any sensor within that range.

Those sensors are RTD's and they are available with different curves. And looking at the data for that GM sensor, it looks like it's a different curve. Doesn't the EFI system you are putting in place already expect a specific certain sensor curve? Is there any info in the documentation about what it's expecting?

And lastly, here's a chart I put together for the 280 coolant temp sensor. I didn't look into it, but I would assume the ZX is the same?
sensorchart.jpg

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I took a closer look at the approximate values on the FSM chart and compared them to the GM data. The CHTS appears to run a little lower through the operating range (0 deg C to 80 deg C) than the GM sensor. However, a better evaluation would be to run the engine with the CHTS and monitor the resistance while taking temperature readings at the thermostat housing. If the CHTS resistance is too low through that range, I know it could be the source of problems with the fuel injection. The nice thing is that I can test on the car before I get the kit.

The challenge with the GM coolant temperature sensor is to make sure it is immersed while using the adapter.

Whatever the result, I get to learn something...and maybe the lessons learned will benefit our community.

Resistance vs Temp.jpg

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My original temp sensor was looking quite ragged around the edges, so when I adapted that 260 thermostat housing to my 280, I also took the opportunity to replace the temp sensor with a new one. I bought a new sensor off rock auto and to confirm that it had the same characteristics, I compared it to my original on the stove in a pot of water.  I just wanted to be sure.

They were slightly different, but well within the accuracy limits laid out in the FSM. Here's my "test rig":
P1130317.JPG

And here's a summary of the results:
results.jpg

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I put it off until the first week of July. I'm off the whole week, so I figured I could focus on it. 

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11 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Somewhere I think I read that it was Time to refocus on your Zs.

That was about three years ago?  LOL

          :ph34r:

I think it was longer ago than that. Life gets in the way if you let it.

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3 hours ago, SteveJ said:

I think it was longer ago than that. Life gets in the way if you let it.

I know this. It took 25 years.

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33 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

I'm just back on the radar a couple days ago after a sports injury.

I hurt my back a week or so ago trying on sneakers at Academy Sports.  It's a lot of bending tying those laces. B)

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Anyone know if those 3 screw adapters from Patton Machine can be made to fit/work in 4 screw bodies?  I know the mounting screws are an issue, but what else? I like the idea the original carb look with injectors hidden in them.

Edited by jwtaylor
added more

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They really won't look like original carburetors. The plates go in place of the domes. It would be reversible in theory. I'm not sure what happens with the fuel bowls, yet. If you want to use the Z car fuel rail, you would want to get another fuel rail because you would have to open up the orifice in the downstream side of the fuel rail to allow the proper fuel pressure.

Anyway, if you are wondering if he has plates for the 4 screw carburetors, you could always email him to ask.

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