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DannDZ

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About DannDZ

  • Rank
    Registered User

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Indianapolis, IN
  • Occupation
    Retired

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    Series 1 1971 240-Z. As original as possible, down to the original "D" wheel covers. I've owned it since 1975. Second owner. It was the first Z sold by the dealer. I need to drive it more!

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  1. I went out to the car and checked. You are exactly right! All the comments are helpful, but this is (I think) the root cause. The rest is tuning.
  2. Yes, while I wasn't bothered by it, I was idling at at 3,000 RPM. Not a problem on a well-worn engine. Thanks to all. Lot's of information to process. I do wish someone had produced a manual with this information. I guess I should not have forgotten how it was put together in the first place!
  3. @CanTechZ @siteunseen I just uploaded a 1:17 video of the areas of concern. Don't know if will bring more suggestions to mind, but it will probably help. Please forgive the sound, just off of my phone and I am squeaking against a fender protector!
  4. @CanTechZ I thought I'd start by showing you the things that I don't believe are right. You might be able to just tell me what I did wrong or you may have to post some pictures of your own. Thanks again.
  5. A few pictures of the area between the carbs would be very helpful. In particular how the pieces that connect from the throttle mechanism that remains on the car and the linkage between the carbs is what I am looking for.
  6. This looks helpful. I should be able to step through it and get some good ideas. My challenge is connecting the parts that stayed on the car with those that were removed with the carbs, that is the linkage between the two carbs. BTW, you have a great looking Z. The video will be a good reference for detailing my own engine compartment.
  7. I've rebuilt my carbs and am now reinstalling the pair on my '71. I should have taken better pictures! I am having difficulty properly installing all the the linkages. This thread has some good diagrams and even better pictures. But they are for the 510. I have the Factory Service Manual, I've search a number of forums but have not seen a picture or exploded diagram that will allow me to ensure that it is reassembled correctly. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks
  8. Both carbs are rebuilt and back on the car. It took a bit to get the fuel supply, but it fired up nicely. Of course, much tuning still needed. You are right about the needle jet lengths. I found that someone had replaced the rear jet with the long jet! The one that came in the Walker kit were right. They were the shorter version and I now have them in both lids. After a lot of discussion help and trying options, I have to say that the Walker 15566 is the correct carb rebuild kit for my early Z. The gaskets fit and the jets are the right length. I tested three fuel lines. 1) Braided fuel lines were a failure. Too large and inflexible. 2) The set of ZTherapy lines were supple and easy to install. 3) The kit's fuel lines were only slightly stiffer than those from ZTherapy. I recommend that you give them a try.
  9. That's what I learned from this process, if it works, you don't need to fix it! 😉
  10. My carbs don't have a drain plug, so I can't use this method. However, I've heard that you want the float bowl level to be the same as the "bridge" in the carburetor. The bridge might be thought of as the part that the carb piston rests on or where the needle and jet first meet. If you fuel level is at that level, you should be good to go.
  11. That's what we did. The biggest change was the float was not tipped up quite as much as in the picture and the level was slightly higher. We set both carbs to the same level and that is where we will begin the tuning process.
  12. @siteunseen Here is my current state. I purchased a "cylinder jar" for $3 at Hobby Lobby. The cover and float fit perfectly without any additional support. I measured 23mm down the jar and marked it with tape. I then set the level using a 3mm syringe, one drop at a time. This the level of the water when I can no longer blow into the tube. The water is low and I need to bend the float tab to set it. But which way do I need to bend? Thanks for helping with this. I hope we can make it easier for everyone.
  13. Looks like I need to go out and buy myself some dried beef! 😁 Thanks for all your help. Have a great weekend.
  14. Sure thing. I put a rule in the background and tried to minimize parallax. I think it looks pretty straight to me. Are you measuring the distance from the fluid to lid? That makes sense. Also, you mentioned the size of the glass, should the volume be closer to that of the carb bowl? Thanks!
  15. So, are you measuring from the lid to the "fuel." The distance of the float from the cap is less important? 23mm is about 0.9 inches, significantly larger than the commonly heard 0.55 inches. How important is it to make sure that float is level when properly adjusted. EDIT: I added photos of my rig. At this point, the valve has closed. I cannot blow past it. The final level was set using a syringe and adding water drop by drop. -Dann
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