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Oceanzide

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About Oceanzide

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    Oceanside ca

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    240z
    Z fanatic but no car right now

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  1. Thanks, that's a great idea! BTW, apparently the nut is no longer available either.
  2. I planned to replace synchros this weekend, but found a mangled locking plate behind nut on "output shaft". I'm guessing this plate used to have a tab - the one I found stuck to the magnet on drain-plug. The locking plate is simply not available. The nut is a bit loose but mangled plate prevents it from turning. I'm thinking of just putting everything back together, as is, but wondered: perhaps I can purchase another nut and lock the two together? I also read that someone FOUND this nut "lock-tight"ed. Any suggestions?
  3. I certainly would not spend time on the transmission if it was shifting well. Years ago, my neighbor gave me a drum of 85W gear oil that he used in his Peterbilt. Thinking all gear oil was the same, (and new was better) I put it in the Z transmission and differential. Now (20+ years later) it's a chore to get the trans into just about any gear but 2nd, and fast shifts are impossible.
  4. Thanks Jim! I see some pictures that show a grey bearing surface (mine don't have); there may be better quality synchros out there. Removed trans this weekend, but won't crack it open until next Sat.
  5. Until last week I'd never heard of these folks, and I was ready to spend $20 EACH plus shipping, for 4 parts. Their website turned-up when I searched the part#. NOTE: It's important to search the part#; using the home page Mfr/Year filter didn't show ANY parts for pre 1980 Zs. Also note, the web price (~$8 at this moment) is slightly higher than at the counter (see counter receipt below).. They said they also sell bearings. I hope to drop F4W71A trans soon and promise to post-back regarding whether these actually work.😉 https://www.anaheimgear.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=32604-P0100
  6. Yes Zed Head, you're right! PN: 32604-P0100 (AKA: "RING-BAULK) Items 39 and 44 in schematic. (Apparently less than $10 at a "local" place). I only read Jim's reply and started hunting for information. (After a couple of hours searching; also chasing our cat to give him meds) I stumbled across a large pdf with lots of part numbers. Would anyone be interested in the rest? (it's ~40M ). I included section 177 because it shows the Nissan publication number. By the way, how do I delete a duplicate copy/pasted image? Edit, thanks Z.H. BTW, I see the same microfiche publication "C-0010V" is already available under Resources tab.
  7. Hi, I'm looking for brass synchronizers for my early 4spd. I found one that supposedly fits a 240 through 280 (1st though 4th). Are the synchronizers (1st through 4th) for early 4spd (1970 through mid 71) really the same as those in later transmissions? Can anyone recommend a source?. Thanks in advance!
  8. Thank you for that - will certainly check the float setting. I know there's a robust attachment being sold for dynamically monitoring the bowl/fuel level, but I'm thinking about temporarily inserting a "T" or "Y" between bowl and nozzle, using a clear tube on 3rd branch (which will just be suspended above the bowl). It kinda depends on how easy it is to remove the stock tube (which I don't want to cut).
  9. Just wanted to follow-up, as the engine is idling smoothly now. Turns out the front-carb nozzle was quite stuck as well. The main problem with idle was that I'd managed to completely back-off the rear throttle adjusting screw while trying to balance carbs (with both nozzles stuck). By turning rear throttle-adjust clockwise a few turns, the idle smoothed-out considerably. I'll need to go through the carb-balancing again. By the way, the default mixture adjustment of 2.5 turns down seemed OK for the front carb but seemed to be way (2+turns) off for the rear (as indicated by a Colortune). I'm not sure whether to worry about the apparent lack of symmetry.
  10. Thanks guys. Last couple of weekends have been cool and wet here, so I didn't work on it until today. I checked the three (rear) plugs, which looked a little dark brown, but otherwise practically new. Gap was OK on all. The front bowl was clean last time I looked, but there's usually a fine dust at the bottom of the rear bowl. Re: nozzles, Huge THANKS for mentioning it! Rear nozzle was _really_ stuck. Re: valves, I have heard some valve noise (tapping under valve cover), so was considering this too. I balanced the carbs a few weeks ago. I'll focus on mixture-adjustment again, next weekend, weather conducive. Thanks/Cheers.
  11. Thanks Mark, Dismantled the brass check-valve including spring-clip which retains a tiny spring and "plunger". Squirted everything with WD40, Swabbed-out brass seat with Q-tip. Bent float-tab slightly to lower float. Assembled. Still hard to start and idles like crap. Re: Adjustments: At this point I've disconnected the rear fast-idle(AKA"choke") which (as far as I could tell) wasn't pushing on anything anyway. I've twisted the mixture adjustment and put them both 3/4 turns clockwise from bottom (near where I found them). I've seen posts that advise a coarse tuning of 2.5 turns clockwise from bottom, but mine only have about 2.5 turns total adjustment!(?) I've now changed the float level in the rear bowl. Now the front carb seems more prone to cough/backfire than it has on the last couple weekends. That is, when trying to start the engine - on front 3 cylinders.
  12. Greetingz! Since starting my Z recently - after 10-15 years of mostly sitting - it hasn't been idling well. At first I tried starting the car on 10-15 year old gas and quickly discovered the fuel line was clogged because the tank was full of rust. The gas tank has been cleaned/treated, and I'm using fresh 91 octane fuel. The first indication it was a rear-carb problem was that starter fluid had almost no effect on the rear carb. Then gas came out of the rear-bowl overflow; I rapped the bowl with a screwdriver handle, that stopped the gas pouring out, but the next time I pulled off the air-cleaner, there was gas pooled at the bottom of the carb's air-inlet. Motor runs great when I accelerate, it's just difficult to start and has rough idle. So, I plan to pull apart the rear float-bowl check-valve (yet again) and, this time, focus on the inlet side aluminum cylinder and seat (part of cover). Does anybody have any tips regarding "refurbishing" these check-valves? I've seen several threads regarding stuck check-valves, but not much on how to refurbish the old parts.
  13. There's a check-valve built into the (front of) rear piston. It's supposed to close when applying brakes. When pedal is released, if there's less pressure in front of piston, fluid can move from slotted part of piston (reservoir) forward, past the front seal (of rear piston). This was stuck open. I tried to dismantle the front&rear orifice, but don't have a bench or vice and was never able to unscrew the large fittings. Thank you for the that link Zed Head - I'll check it out (later, when not constrained to phone GUI).
  14. Thanks for the pic! I have two old Chilton manuals that cover 240 to 260 and 240 to 280, also a Clymer covering 240 to ZX - none of them shows cutaway of early MC (To be fair, Clymer shows the most accurate diagram of early Tokico MC.) Where did you find this pic? Re: "Rear Orifice" (not to be confused with PC virus "Back Orifice") If that's the little plunger under the "dome" on the end of the rear piston, then that was the problem! It wasn't a stray rubber fragment, though... It appears these parts are anodized aluminum, and the anodization was chaffed off the plunger right behind the rubber seal. So that's where some sort of corrosion developed and the plunger was stuck/glued about 2mm away from being closed. Am able to bleed MC now - what a relief! Hopefully the vacuum booster is OK. I stuck my finger inside and felt the rubber which seemed very pliant but not wet. Thanks to all for the help and suggestions.
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