Zed Head

And surviving it is not the only thing to worry about. Useful numbers are finally being generated about how many people actually come out the other side in the same shape they were before they got it. Not many. https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2020/jul/06/coronavirus-covid-19-mild-symptoms-who "Another troubling phenomenon now coming into focus is that of “long-haul” Covid-19 sufferers – people whose experience of the illness has lasted months. For a Dutch report published earlier this month (an excerpt is translated here) researchers surveyed 1,622 Covid-19 patients with an average age of 53, who reported a number of enduring symptoms, including intense fatigue (88%) persistent shortness of breath (75%) and chest pressure (45%). Ninety-one per cent of the patients weren’t hospitalized, suggesting they suffered these side-effects despite their cases of Covid-19 qualifying as “mild”. While 85% of the surveyed patients considered themselves generally healthy before having Covid-19, only 6% still did so one month or more after getting the virus." The "here" translation - https://www.biomax.com/lib/press-releases/Initial-Result-Announcment_English.pdf

Smoky burnouts? There have been questions about overall quality of the OBX units. They are the typical "knockoff" part from offshore. You'll probably know more when you look at the drain plug or the fluid that comes out. Good luck

As it stands, things are very clear, I think, on what's going on with the COVID-19 pandemic. It's not even being addressed as a health issue anymore, by those at the very top. But it's still interesting to keep up with what's happening, like watching a tsunami wave growing. Remember when various state governments were going to ban travelers from New York state? Ponder these graphs from MDMetrix. A person can make the increased testing argument but the graphs should drive a person to learn more. Hospitalization rates are up too. https://covid-19.mdmetrix.com/grid.html?list=all_cases New York state is going to be the safest place on the planet pretty soon. 16 states on their 14 day quarantine list as of now. It started at eight, on the 25th of June. And one of those, Washington, was apparently a mistake, it was removed a day later. https://coronavirus.health.ny.gov/covid-19-travel-advisory

There are definitely different gland nuts that can affect thread engagement. Some strut inserts/shocks come with a spacer that fits under the gland nut to get a proper fit. Most of them come with their own gland nut that centers the top of the shock too, as it provides proper clamping force. The gland nut fits like a cap over the top of the strut. It is essentially an extension of the tube when it's all put together. Think of it that way and you can probably make things work. Don't forget to check the bottom of the strut tube also. Crud/rust can build up in the bottom. It wasn't really designed for the replaceable inserts. They just happened to work well.

The place that rebuilt the engine was still around three years ago. Not many posts, looks like they got bored with Facebook. Might still be a going concern. https://www.facebook.com/RisingSunPerformance/ http://sehlers.tripod.com/risingsun.html/ Edit - I added this earlier but it didn't stick for some reason. They're still around.

Did you install the better Belleville springs/washers? The OBX's needed some prep work before installation to get the best results. There's a guy that was even making new washer/springs (they're actually springs, but look like washers. Or maybe they're both...). I think it's R. C. Bryant. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88099-obx-differential-inspection-and-installation/ https://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm https://www.centuryspring.com/products/disc-springs/

I think that you have the math down about perfectly. EuroDat supplied the final clue to your problem early on. There is no "70-74" pressure plate (tall plate) available in the common low budget aftermarket. There are only two kinds now, a 225 mm plate (coupe) and 240 mm plate (turbo and 2+2). If this forum had stickies this would be a good one. That's a nice illustration of where to measure.

Looks like you've got the math figured out. You could probably measure more on your old collar and bearing and use the illustrations from MSA and ZCarDepot and figure out if their product would work. Have to do some scaling and rithmetic and ratios and thinking... It's probably this one. More bad illustrations. Good luck. Hopefully somebody out here has one. @zKars https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/21-2122

This picture is confusing because the measurements shown are only valuable for comparing between them, and because the type of transmission, either type A or B or number of gears, is irrelevant. It's just a bad illustration. The measure that has value is not shown, from the surface of the bearing to the surface of the ears. Even the aftermarket guys are confused about the sleeves/collars, every one of them shows a worthless dimension. I would forget about "A" collars and "B" collars. Figure out a way to get the distance from the surface of your pressure plates springs (where the TO bearing contacts them) to the flywheel (which you almost did, but never finished) and post that up. Someone out here probably has the collar you need, and knows how to get the measurement that will add up to 92 mm, and will send it for a few dollars.

Is the car level? If the back end is high you might have overfilled, the fluid is sitting in the front of the case. Or if it's tilted sideways, the fill hole might be high. I've always used less than the capacity shown because of fluid that didn't drain out. I always lift both front and back end also to keep things level.

You should ask about the front mount also. Why not? The tools are probably all in the same spot. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/16

zcardepot might be interested. @zcardepot.com

Here's a shorter thought - Nissan got rid of the mustache bar design when they went to the ZX body. And they modified the parts a few times over the years. It's really just a bad design from the beginning. Simple ideas should be possible for easy improvement.

No offense intended to anyone that has posted on this topic. But some of these things just need to be experienced to be understood, I think/guess. Carving up a piece of solid metal leaves an obviously strong part behind, made of metal. But, if you go out and buy a piece of Steel Stick, or one of the other metal-filled epoxies, and try it out you'll understand how strong it can be, if prepared properly. "Epoxy" is a nebulous word, the variety is large. The same goes for polyurethane. Rubber is used in the automotive industry because it's cheap. If you've ever worked for a company that supplies automotive parts you'll understand how every fraction of a penny matters to the automakers. They'll spend hundreds of thousands on engineering staff to design a part made from the cheapest materials. Because the volume of parts is so high. Making rubber parts cost quite a bit in tooling also. Rubber parts are not poured, they are formed via pressure from rubber sheet or other solid form, and cured using heat. I don't think that anyone is going to reproduce the rubber parts, in rubber. I'm just posting options. But nobody can really discount them off-hand without taking a closer look. When I was messing with my mustache bar I bought some big rubber washers from the local hardware store and stacked them up to take up the space that the worn out scalloped washer used to fill. AK260 could try that instead of carving up a PU bushing. There are endless ways to get the big old chunk of mustache bar steel to stop moving around, clunking, but still avoid transmitting sound.

Here's a biased article from a company that makes PU products. http://harknessindustries.com/rubber-polyurethane/#:~:text=Polyurethane has higher abrasion%2C cut,has better load bearing capacity.&text=Finally%2C polyurethane looks better than,better than its rubber counterpart.

I think that the commercially available replacements bushings were all made from a hard (high durometer) PU just because it was easy and cheap. Probably chosen for a single application like the smaller front control arm bushings then they just started looking around for any rubber part that could be replaced, using the same material. You can get PU in super-soft to brick hard. An 80A would be pretty soft but firm. PU's are very versatile, you can't discount all PU's because somebody in the past used them for the wrong purpose. You just have to pick the right one. https://www.polyglobal.co.uk/a-guide-to-shore-hardness/#:~:text=Polyurethanes are most commonly used,maintain their profile under pressure.

Here's a start along the lines of what CO has been suggesting, the google search below. It might be distasteful to many, because it seems "hacky," but a person could fill the void of an undersized bushing with metal-filled "space-age" epoxy (AKA JB Weld) and probably have a nice solid bushing assembly. https://www.google.com/search?q=motor+mounts (browse the images) https://www.jbweld.com/product/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick https://www.jbweld.com/products

I can't remember who it is (anybody?) that is reproducing the small rubber parts but he would probably have the experience to make an attempt at it. Here's another good link. Understanding how to create a good mold, following instructions, and knowing what can screw things up (moisture, contaminants, etc.) are the key. https://www.fibreglast.com/product/introduction-to-urethane-casting-resins/Learning_Center

Is that the same car? Bumpers, wheels, side trim, and dent look different. Still, both look good. Thanks for answering the 5 speed question.

You could pour your own. https://itwperformancepolymers.com/products/devcon (type urethane in to the search box) https://www.flexsealproducts.com/

I bet if you looked at things like the brakes shoes and pads and rotors and wheel bearings and general grease buildup on the diff and axles you could feel better about a guess. The talk about rust and mileage is kind of overlooking the replacement cost of those interior parts. You could probably put a list together and price each part individually and $8,000 would seem like a good deal. I kept a list of my costs just to get an old 76 in decent shape and I was over $5,000 pretty quick. $50, $200 there....it adds up.

This is the one that should be connected to pin 13.

Weird though, that it's not where it says it is. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/10-tech-articles/

There's this -