Zed Head

Seems like @Carl Beck would have some thoughts.

It starts with 246's post, wasn't sure. 246's link doesn't go to the eBay page anymore either. I read the whole thread and nobody actually mentioned paint. 246 showed some paint and a painted cover. He seems to imply that it might be painted. It looks painted. But I don't think anyone ever really addressed the question. They got off on to judging issues. You probably want to stop using the lacquer thinner though. Interesting puzzle.

Your link doesn't go to a valve cover ebay page, just a "valve cover" search ebay page. Not clear what you're talking about. Edit - actually I see from my post that there is a "word skimmer" linking to ebay on the site. So, even more "not clear". Basically you're asking if any Nissan valve covers came painted from the factory..

That's sound like you have a float needle stuck off the seat. That can often be fixed by tapping on the float bowl, believe it or not. Give it some sharp raps with a solid object to vibrate the float and needle valve. When the bowl goes dry the float ends up in a spot it doesn't normally see, hanging down in the bowl. It gets stuck. I even found a video, I'm sure that there are more. It's a common problem. This guy talks too much, you can go directly to 1:30 to see the precision method in action. The concept is the same for any carb with floats and needle valves.

This would work in slide-hammer fashion also.

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Mike, I'm just having fun with Google AdSense. Because it makes no sense. Their algorithm is messed up, probably wasting Googlebits of bandwidth on useless promotion. That's why it's funny and fun to play with. I'm not logged in to Hybridz and it just toggles between Cuup and springs and Windex. Hilarious!!!! I know how to get rid of the ads and report the ads a "Inappropriate", etc. That's why I'm "chit-chatting".

Very deep... Maybe DF and DB. Drive Forward, Drive Backward. Or Devoe mode - GF, MA. F is too easy.

Reading the best of the script is almost better than watching the movie.

I tried "Animal Farm" and still got Cuup... “All animals are equal, but some animals are more equal than others.”― George Orwell, Animal Farm “Weak or strong, clever or simple, we are all brothers.”― George Orwell, Animal Farm https://www.goodreads.com/quotes/tag/animal-farm

You could check the wipe pattern. If it's the same you're probably fine. If it's off, it might howl.

You might be on the exhaust stroke. TDC happens twice per full combustion sequence. Rotate the crankshaft one full rotation and the rotor will be on the opposite side.

Here's Nissan's procedure for the rear wheel bearing. At those torque values things are probably deflecting and maybe affecting end play. But what does a person do if they can't hit both numbers/ranges? The preload is an exact number also.

Why did you remove the pinion nut? Might guide your path forward. They're whiny even with everything just right. Probably won't be able to tell. It's not going to destroy it just make it noisy. Nissan has several areas where they give two specs. and they probably cannot both be met at times. Like in wheel bearings they spec. both end play and rotation resistance/preload but don't tell how to adjust if the resistance is not met. They do the same here. A torque value and a preload but how do you adjust one without affecting the other. It's nonsense.

New cylinders can be bad out of the box. Pull the dust boot off of the slave cylinder and see if there's fluid in it. There should not be, it should be dry. p.s. how did you bleed the system? Maybe you didn't get all of the air out.

If he had a points distributor and the electronic system quit working, why not? A spark is a spark. Electronic can be a better spark but the first systems just made the same quality spark in a different manner. Brand new would be bright white. Those both look like they've been in a working combustion chamber. Sometime you can grab the belts and turn the crankshaft. Squeeze them tight on a pulley so they grab. If you have an extra pulley on the damper you can take a spare belt and make a handle out of it. A timing light would answer a lot of questions for you. But trying new workarounds is fun too.

I bought the stud kit from MSA and it came with 13mm nuts on the 8mm studs. Very annoying. Nut size does not determine stud size. (I know that sounds weird.) Forgot to say that maybe the torque values are determine based on gasket crush, not the usual ultimate clamping force. Determined by Nissan, not by the torque tables.

Recycled the page a few times and it toggled between springs and cuups, then this. Springs, bras and windex. Who is the customer? I'll stop now.

"Farm animals". Unexpected result. I don't know what's happening.

Now I typed "automotive springs" in to Google and got a new ad. It's scary.

It's (they're?) back. It was gone, but I tried an experiment. I typed "boob" in to Google. Now it's back. I think I'm learning how to control the interweb.

Since you just put in a new cam and rocker arms and they survived the initial startup, apparently, it doesn't seem like you can do much more to be safe. Seems like it's time to just run it and hope. Good luck.

I saw it on Hybridz also. I think it might be me. It happened right after I cleared my search history though. Maybe it's a default starting point for the world of internet.

If they don't extend off of the edge of the pad then they should be good. Hopefully the pads don't have too much wear, no bumps or grooves from past wear to cause problems. You're in one of those situations where it's hard to tell how far to go. People have replaced everything with brand new and wiped a cam lobe. Others have not paid much attention and used their old parts and come out okay. I'm going to guess that it will run fine. But, there's really no way to guarantee. What did you mean by "leveling"? And how/why did you decide to shim the cam(?) towers? Did you have the head shaved" Curious.