Zed Head

Washington D.C. has a 14 day quarantine for non-essential visitors now. I wonder if reporters are considered essential.

It's happened before. It's possible to install the linkage upside down or backward. Pivot points on the wrong side or something like that. Remove the linkage and install it "the other way". It's not the wiper motor it's the linkage.

So much of the early electrical systems on cars were(was?) developed around a deep understanding of the fundamental properties of the materials. Today, it seems like everything is handled with computer code. So, the ballast resistor works on the same principle as the filament in the bulb of the fuel light, I think, right? Using that increase in resistance with current for a control purpose. Here's a stretch, another cross-reference. Would a condenser/capacitor on the headlight circuit damp the spark across the headlight switch contacts, like the condenser on a set of points in a Kettering type ignition system? Just testing my brain, the switch will still get hot and break the solder joints just from the current, over time, I'd guess, so a relay is the best solution. But the pitting might be reduced, which contributes to the heating effect.

Thanks. But I have to confess that there was some calculating behind it. I knew my numbers and what should be left. Still, it was thrilling...

I've always wondered why the low fuel light on my other Nissan, a Pathfinder, would start very dimly then slowly get brighter and brighter as the fuel level got lower when I got down past "E" (sometimes I like to live on the edge). I could never figure out how it did that. Seems to make more sense now. That was a 1995 model. I'd guess that modern cars still use the technology, it looks simple, effective, and cheap. But, I still don't really understand why it would suddenly turn off, then begin the dim-brighter-brighter cycle again. Maybe it has something to do with that knee. Or maybe it was just a slosh of gasoline.

Long ago the high school kids in my area used to go to the coast in Washington every year for the Fog Festival. https://www.star-telegram.com/news/coronavirus/article244478462.html "At his own venue, Polone said a Centers for Disease Control and Prevention approved germicide will be fogged for extra safety."

One downside to using thread locker is that you can't retorque or tighten up the fastener once you use it. So if your exhaust gasket compresses a bit and you'd like to snug up the nuts, too bad. And, I don't think that Nissan used any threadlocker on those parts. I don't think that any manufacturers use them today on those parts either. Just an alternate view. Also, if you don't use it on the studs in to the head then those can loosen up anyway. But if you do use threadlocker on the studs then you can rip the aluminum threads out of the head. Then, ultimately, when you do eventually remove the exhaust manifold, you'll be removing the studs from the head but under tension. Which is not good for the head threads. Just seems like one of those keep it simple areas.

The dip stick confirms proper oil level, it doesn't measure quantity. Your 7 quart oil pan holds more than 7 quarts. Keep adding oil until the level is correct. Edit - unless you also installed an extended oil pickup tube with the bigger pan.

If they're the same you have one to experiment on. Results should translate. Today's electronics manufacturing processes are all about process control to produce identical parts. For that type of part you really shouldn't see a defect. I wonder how many they have sold, and how many have actually been installed. You might be the first. p.s. I say they but I think it's just one guy. I wonder if some of the delay is due to all of the metal surrounding it. Might be fun to hook it up to a battery and see how warm it gets.

I used to go the one in Wilsonville, by Portland. It was well-stocked but it's been years. Maybe they're dying too.

It's "new". I assume that the offending part is shown here. Maybe it has numbers on it. Just noticed that they put "copy of" in the url. https://zcardepot.com/products/copy-of-fuel-tank-gauge-sending-unit-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-78?_pos=3&_sid=b7ce84965&_ss=r

Fry's is like a super duper Radio Shack. Georgia is close. https://www.frys.com/ac/storeinfo/storelocator I'll bet that zcardepot used a battery to determine which thermistor would work, and didn't consider alternator voltage. Seems like at this point it needs to be determined if you're trying to find a fix that you can live with or trying to show that ZCarDepot used the wrong thermistor so that you can get a refund. Or go even farther and determine the right thermistor to use for the application. A cheap "pot" would be the easy experiment if you just want to know the answer.

That thought popped in to my head too. Maybe use the fuel tweaker trick on your fuel light. A potientiometer (isn't it actually a rheostat, as it's used?) that you can tune until you get what you want. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

Told you I didn't really know how they work. Mine never went on, I've never seen it. Here's the bulb specs. Maybe.

I thought it was worth a check. Most of today's regulators regulate about 13.8 to 14.3 so yours looks right. Edit - The following is wrong... Since "open circuit" turns the light on, maybe check your wiring connections. There might be one that is by something that gets hot when the engine is running. Maybe by the exhaust system or on the floor or even back by the tank. I know somebody that had a BMW with a fuse holder in the trunk that would get hot and go open then close when it cooled. It killed all electrical, he'd just have to wait to get going again. Took him a long time to figure out.

As I understand those sensors they are resistive elements that heat up to actuate the light. I don't really know how they work, but when they're covered by fuel they stay cool and when they are exposed they heat up. Something like that. I might be completely wrong. So, one thing that would cause more heat would be more current. And when the engine is running you'll have alternator voltage instead of battery, so, more current. You might check your system voltage with the engine running. Maybe your alternator is going bad and overcharging.

As I understand things the antibody tests are unreliable. The FDA allowed unproven tests on to market, then changed their ruling later. Beside that, it's still unknown whether or not it matters. Immunity is not guaranteed. Best to just assume that you haven't had it. The FDA has been hollowed out for decades. Trust the individual scientists if you can, the bureaucracies are corrupted. https://www.fda.gov/medical-devices/letters-health-care-providers/certain-covid-19-serologyantibody-tests-should-not-be-used-letter-clinical-laboratory-staff-and https://www.fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/coronavirus-covid-19-update-fda-provides-promised-transparency-antibody-tests

The end of the video is kind of spooky.

https://www.gorilla-auto.com/gorilla-tech-tips

I don't know if these sites are just getting better or if I missed them first time around. But this one is pretty good, it shows the increase in cases, and the cases or deaths per capita. Click on one of the three labels and the map changes. You can see the hot-spots and which way they're going. https://www.theguardian.com/world/ng-interactive/2020/jul/15/covid-19-coronavirus-us-map-latest-cases-state-by-state

The problem was supposed to follow the lug nuts, not go away. What kind of wheels do you have and lug nuts? Seems like you might have the wrong nuts for the wheel. And if the lug nuts actually got hot due to the thumping then your lugs have probably taken a beating. Just because the noise went away doesn't mean things are right. There might be some damage. p.s. I see your punishment Mark M... (that was a "nuts" pun, right???)

You're right site, but it's still worth keeping an eye on. New York's travel ban is up to 31 states. They have a set of criteria to judge against, for each state, and are a kind of barometer about which way things are going across the country. It was 22 for quite a while now it's jumped. https://coronavirus.health.ny.gov/covid-19-travel-advisory

Here's the latest on "surviving" COVID-19. https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2020/07/200714144739.htm https://www.cincinnati.com/story/news/2020/07/19/covid-19-smell-loss-brain-attack-depression-anxiety-university-cincinnati-research/5451349002/ "You can't smell anything. Taste is botched. How depressing, right? Well, yes, that is right. But the real question is, why do you feel depressed when you have COVID-19 with smell loss? The answer could be that the disease caused by the novel coronavirus might be attacking your brain."

The Senate could still change all of this. They're hiding too, hoping nobody starts talking about it. They are the ones allowing the craziness to continue. A few words in the hallways and it would all be over in a couple of weeks. They actually bear more responsibility than the guy at the top.

I'm surprised that they're not offering free hydroxychloroquine to kids.