zKars

Excellent, thank you. I will post some pics of the differences in the guide tracks for later reference. I'm pretty sure I knew which was which, but I think I have confirmation now. I'll wait for Steve to get his 73 pics taken to be sure. I want to start a new topic group called something like "One of these things is not like the other" and then post definitive pictures of various items (like windows, regulators and doors) across all of the years for later reference. Then I won't have to ask silly questions anymore. Or at least less often

I'm confused (again) and need a bit of help. Does anyone have a window (either side) door glass out that they can post a picture of? I need absolute confirmation of what year that glass came from. The two guide tracks on the window frame are unique between the early and late glass, and I can't for the life of me remember which is which. I need a picture of the side of the glass mounting frame that has the two short guide tracks where the regulator wheels ride. Either a early 240 or 76 or later 280 is best. Don't bother if its the later 77-78 glass, it's so unique I know what it looks like. Tanks!

I have these https://groupharrington.com/product/datsun-240z-and-260z-bumpers/ and they were terrific. Still look great. They were being manufactured in either Thialand or Vietnam IIRC so maybe these from bumperauto are from the same place? Just looked closer, the rear is a three piece like the stocker, the groupharrington rear is one piece. What price did they quote? The GH is on sale for 816 brit pounds.

I got tired of fighting this fight a long time ago. I keep a stock of longer cheap generic 5/16" or 3/8" hex bolts that completely solve all this struggle. Standard hardware store items. You just leave everything slack until you get the nuts started, then snug it all up. Also helps to have the control arms jacked up kinda horizontal.

Also a perfect fit offset wise for 510's! Not too ugly with a fresh powder coat and DATSUN emblems on the caps.

Due to unforeseen circumstances, 3798 is back up for sale. All is good, no need to be concerned. If you are interested, please let me know.

It is a bit of a puzzle. Many have struggled with this. You sort of have to hold the filter into the housing, drop the rear a bit, and slip the rear of the filter past the rear air horn to get it all out. Yes the front bolt has to stay in the housing while you do this. When you finally get the housing clear, turn it upside down and spill the bolt onto the floor where it will roll under neath the car. At least that's how I do it. Once you get the technique, you'll wonder what all the fuse was about.

Engine, trans, diff. Headlight bulbs. wheels, license plate, various bulbs, upper rad hose, yeah, that's about it.

This is incredible. Summit want $79.99 for a Pilkington windshield!! Even more incredible, I just bought one, and the shipping costs are quoted (Fedex Ground) as $32.27! All the way up here to the great white north! I just can't wait to see what shows up! I've bought pilkington and "asian" windshields in the past and they were more like $400 and $100 respectively. Will let you-all know when it gits here.

Just put a screwdriver/chisel in from the shifter fork hole and whack it. MUCH better angle of attack. If you're chicken, err, I mean, cautious, just use a long chunk of wood and hit the lever ball thingy instead.

The original picture is what 280 senders electrical connectors look like. They are not designed to be taken off or to be removable. The 240 senders had the slide on terminals and could be better insulated and water proofed by the rubber caps referenced above.

I was un-aware they were cupped to start with! as you can imagine, I have quite a few laying around and none exhibit any cup-ish-ness. Can't imagine why they would want them to be cupped, I would think that would consume a good part of the torque you're putting on the bolts or some such. I'm confused. again....

I would think the old washers you have would last for all eternity. Unless you lost a couple of course.

I have a crazy idea! When the gas gauge gets close to E, put more gas in the tank. Don't worry about the light that tells you the same thing. Sorry, couldn't resist. Now that I've had my fun at your expense, maybe there is a sender with that part in my collection. Somewhere.....

A hard pedal where you get immediate excessive braking at very distinct pedal point, has historically been commonly caused by the loss of the "reaction disk" in the booster. It's amazing how this thin little disk of rubber gives you the soft pedal and modulation control that utterly lost without it.

Wish I could help. I don't have a stock wired 510 anywhere handy.

Cat's out of the bag. New owner revealed!

Well that was easy! Seems 3798 will be going to new good home out east. It will be well cared for.

Well here we are, Spring 2018. if you call this "spring"... Spring = green where I come from, not white... Well I've decided to let this one go to a good home. Anybody want a very restorable 5/70 that is currently running and safe, let me know. Comes with a solid roof section to solve that skylight problem too. Have lots of S1 donor items from 2744 as well that can go with it as well at extra cost. 95% of what you need to make a very nice early Z. Just add hours, welding rod, and $$. You can have it for what I paid and the labour and parts I put in it to get it running and safe. PM me or z240@shaw.ca

I'll drop my asking price by the cost of the truck transport. Now THAT's determination.

I just wanted to update some pictures and provide some links that will make it easier to see the car and what's been done to it over time Have a look here for general pictures: http://www.zkars.com/cars/1973_240Z/ and here where I dug up some pictures I took during a partial restoration of the underside in 2012. http://www.zkars.com/cars/1973_240Z/2012_resto/ Also read this document to full history and details of what's been done. http://www.zkars.com/cars/1973_240Z/240Z_Details.pdf

Yes she is. PM me or send me a note to z240@shaw.ca.

I'm going to regret not going to this, aren't I.... One trip to Georgia a year I guess

Stupid ancient tachs. Good reason that all tachs from about that time on-ward went to coil negative terminal trigger. Much more predictable waveforms to trigger on and count accurately There may not be much you can do to get your tach to trigger properly. Anything you "add" to the + side of the coil will reduce voltage and/or current to the coil and reduce spark strength. MAYBE go get a 0.7 ohm blaster coil and put the stock ballast resistor back in line and see if that helps? Use the stock coil and ballast? All of the modern tach adapter modules are designed for the negative trigger mode. No way to predict how any one of them might help or hurt, mostly likely will make it worse, unless you find one that specifically designed to handle the + coil power supply counting tach issue. Replacing your tach guts with a later 280z tach that uses the negative trigger is one common approach that tends to be reliable.

Just cuz you have nothing better to do, have you checked that the throttle butterfly is closed all the way with foot off the peddle? Just in case 'someone' may have tweaked the little adjuster screw on the side to get some idle bypass air via butterfly offset, rather than adjusting the official idle/air bypass? Just pointing out one of the assumptions one makes when doing tests like this that may escape consideration.