zKars

Oh that's not right.....

The clutch feel in my 2017 370 was also horrible. Nearly impossible to start out smoothly, crazy long travel. The shifter itself was generally "ok" but I'd often find myself hunting for the right "next" gear when driving it hard and shifting fast. Pretty crappy overall for a modern car. All of my older Datsun's feel a million times better. Bit hard to comprehend.

Merry Christmas Mark.

Merry Christmas everyone from the snow bound and very cold gang here in Calgary. We asked for a white Christmas and we got one! 2018 is shaping up to be a good one. You-all stay safe and warm today.

Oh sure, now the ideas get pretty thin and sketchy... Didn't mix up the domes/piston sets? Check for the tinest burrs, nicks, spider webs, nose hairs, something that's causing the dome to go on crooked.... Lather it all up inside with tons of damper oil? Color the piston all over with sharpy then get it to stick, then look for where it's touching by where the sharpy is wore off. Enlarge those holes where the locator pins fit to give you more position adjustment. Make whereever locates the dome looser or freer

Oh oh. Start with checking if the needle is bent and rubbing on the jet tube. Try torquing down the dome screws in a slightly different order. Can it be put on 180 degrees rotated? Maybe hold the piston up with your finger as you tighten it down? Has the plating added thickness somewhere where it shouldn't have? Add some oil?

Maybe he's referring to the modern "struts" you can buy that are the housing/strut and shock cartridge (and often the spring as well) as a one piece bolt-in affair. No such thing exists for S30.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,suspension,strut,7584 If you want to maintain stock ride, the basic KYB GR-2 is hard to beat.

Good question. Three possibilities. There is a 510 specific two choke cable, which I "think" I have one somewhere that needs work. If I use a Z console like I did on my 69, I can just use a Z cable and mount it in the console. Last I've been trying to dream up a linkage "thingy" that converts the dual carb chokes into a single cable for 510's since the "right" one is nearly un-obtainium. Maybe some cold night the right simple design will come to me. I keep thinking of stepper motors.... Heat shield. yes, 6 gaskets, both sides of heat shield and insulators. The back of the heat shield has gold reflective foil on it You're trying to block radiant heat directly between the header and float bowls, can't stop circulating heated air from getting around the heat shield without getting really boxy around the entire carb/fender area. Line of site baby.

Engine is fine. Check the fuel supply.

Now how am I going to resist the urge to go for a drive in a Datsun to the mountians this winter? Not sure where to find knobby snow tires anymore to recreate this properly..

Oh sure, EXACTLY what I need and oh good lord, could you BE any further away... 8K Km round trip. In winter. Any body coming this way with a 1/2ton to say, Montana, North Dakota etc, for Christmas? I wonder what the maximun weight for airline carry on is?

Jolly good! Wouldn't have imagined there would be enough meat to do that. I'll see if that's an option on these miniature 38mm wonders.

Got these beautiful FLAT TOP carbs running on the 510 tonight. They run SO well. Took it out for a quick back lane romp and had TOO much fun. Here is proof of concept. Note. The idle is happening with the throttle blades 100% closed. I swear I'm going to get fake plastic hemi-spherical caps made that you can snap on your flat top bells so you don't have to be embarrassed every time you open your hood... And no laughing at the roof rack or the mack-tack paint job....

Make sure your manifold has the holes as well. And make sure the spacer goes on the right way. One hole is for water into the carb, the other for water leaving. If only I knew which was witch... And now for something actually useful, (harhumfff...) I can help you with a pair of spacers. Llet me know if no one closer can help find you one.

I know I know. If only parking space and money were infinite I'd have a 100 of them... We'll see what spring does to my attitude about this. Merry Christmas Richard. See you next year, hopefully more often!

Only disadvantage I've seen is it keeps making me think something is wrong when I look at an L6 sitting on one. Then I remember, should be tilted over to the left a few degrees. Looks very strange sitting upright!

I love this cradle design also have several in use. The simplist form is a pair of 2x6 long ones and a pair of 2x4's at the ends to let the pan hang down into the cradle at each end and allow you to position fore and aft as needed. 22 ish long 2x6's and 8.5" 2x4's inbetween the 2x6's at each end (12.5 total width)

I did say that in a moment of weakness...

oh oh. i kinda decided to keep her after a bunch of disappointing responses. We can talk I suppose.

Ashes to ashes, dust to dust. Don't even bother, and it ain't just the rust...

It would have been more usefull had I posted the F/R lengths, but I don't know them off hand.... Not in a place I can measure them right now..

The stock rubber lines are longer on the rear than on the fronts, maybe you got a set of fronts by accident.

Hmmmm, +50 F here in the great white north. My igloo is melting! Sorry to rub this in.

Ask member @Zupabout restoring a '73 with flat tops "properly". Carefully sole search your desire to have a totally original '73 restoration before continuing. The issue used to be the difficultly of restoring the flat tops to original like new condition, but rebuild kits have recently been found and returned to the market making it "possible". Tuned and in-spec these carbs are 'better" than round tops !! (sorry, couldn't resist... please don't fill this guys thread with rebuttles... ) PS, if you need some, I might have kept a few....