zKars

Here is a decent one. It needs to be cleaned and likely repainted to make it pretty, but its straight, functional, has a filter and yes I have the wing bolts to go with. PM me or email me at z240@shaw.ca and we'll talk turkey. No wait, thankgiving is just over here, I've had enough turkey.

Do you have the original flat tops or an earlier set of round top SU's? Either way I can help you with a stock air cleaner.

Unfortunately no. The sound is forever entombed in my brain though. It is like no other Z I have ever driven. Deeper, richer, more inviting to make more of it at every chance. Spend some time ensuring the flanges are flat and in line. There was a bit of exhaust leak on #5 as evidenced by a bit of black soot above the port on the gasket, and you'll notice the support bar between 5 and 6 has been cut to also 6 to lay flat. I couldn't hear it under the hood, but it was clearly there.

I wish I had better news. Several things have conspired to prevent me from coming this year, not the least of which is the distinct lack of a Z to drive at the moment. Was looking forward to meeting some of you finally, but this will have to wait at least another year. Here's hoping next years extravaganza is a bit farther west. Enjoy your time, I will live it vicariously through your pictures and stories here. All the best.

I don't like to wrap headers due to the rust issues, but I was trying anything and everything to quiet down the exhaust noise. The wrapping made a lot of difference. I've even wrapped my muffler and piping in the rear on the 510 now to help with noise. That didn't help as much as I'd hoped, though its better.

Working??? I should have tested that one... What can go wrong....

The suspension bolts are mostly JIS grade 9, which is equivalent to SAE grade 12. Leave the pretty stainless to where you can see it under the hood holding on the fenders, valve cover or rad or something, or in the interior.

Finally. A Z we can put a sunroof into and and know its easy to fix when you decide that was a stupid idea in the first place. Ok, maybe there are other reasons to like this, but I can't think of any...

I'll bet its something electrical. Isn't that a wire attached to it in the picture? An extra insurance to get a ground connection to the rotating shaft, fixing an erratic spark problem? Guessing.... Have to dig one up and have a look

Clean and sand the back of the rubber to ensure whatever glue you use has a chance to stick. Weatherstrip adhesive should be ok. Good old contact cement (not the water based stuff though) would also work.

"All good things gotta come to an end". Isn't that how it goes? Thanks for helping to take the pain away. It went to a good home.

I seem to have 150 Amp-Fuel gauges, but only a single, and clearly valuable, Volt-Fuel gauge. PM me.

Have to laugh I guess. I'm getting great excercise shoveling literally tons of wet snow. Snowflake rims?

I know I have a few 240 models, which fit and work, but need to have wiring adaptation done. You will also loose the 'empty' warning with the early sender as it doesn't have the extra sensor. Let me see if I have a 280 sender. Would of course be better.

No need to search out unobtanium overpriced 30+ year old cranks. Engineered Performance is now selling billet L6 cranks made to any spec you want. As long as you have 3600 american green backs to get you started, you can build the engine of your dreams with new parts. Look them up on Facebook. https://m.facebook.com/NissanRaceEngineMachining/

That sounds like a possible contributing factor. The car gets used for big trips and very little for day to day use. It sits a lot. I had another member discuss the possibility of acid buildup due to non-use of a PCV system but I've always had a working PCV system on the car, either with triples or with SU's and I change the oil very often, like every 2000km. But this damage appears corrosive in nature, not mechanical. I use Shell Rotella Diesel oil. Maybe I should have used synthetic all along.

I have this intank unit in my 76 tank that is shoe horned into my 73 Z. It does fit in and snuggle next to the stock level sender without it rubbing on the intank pump hardware. If you put it in the right place. I got lucky. Let me see if I can find the pictures. I did have to cut a small hole in the hatch floor to clear the fittings on top if the tank. Maybe in a real 76 there would be room, but I doubt it. Okay here is a picture of where it goes.

I'd be very skeptical of a plug read based ONLY on a short period of idle. The car is not driven at idle. Put in new plugs and GO DRIVE THE CAR aggressively for an hour, THEN read the plugs. If nothing else you've had an hour of fun driving the car.

It a speed sensor I'm pretty sure. Either the ignition or ECM use it for some 'critical' function. Something on the speedo hooks up to it. I've seen them attached to speedo's

FIdanza 143281 flywheel fits all L6 and has bolt patterns to attach both the 225 and 240mm clutches. 10 lbs ish. Replacable friction surface. I even put one on my LZ 2,4L 510 motor! Zoom zoom

Would be nice to know the firm price..... Unless the $100 mentioned is for each?

Cool! Where did you find that beast? Must be some crazy person to give that up!

After going through a couple hundred, there are only two types of markings. The ones with the Trapezoid always have a single letter on the opposite side, and a variety of numbers and dots next to the trapezoid. The ones that start with S have NOTHING on the other side. I can't see any structural or size differences between the two types other than the markings. Given all the stock engines I've harvested them from, I guessing they are ALL Nissan rockers. Not exactly a statistically rigorous study, but a decent sample size. I do remember a couple of points from a variety of threads on hybridz about rockers. The first point was that Delta didn't always do it right so check every one for even parallel grinding. The second point was that there seems to be a bit of variety in overall rocker arm lengths. I don't remember if they measured the actual ball center to lash pad contact points for consistency but the overall castings can vary. Try to use a set of same-ish length ones if you can of course.

So I have a question about identifying Nissan rockers. While I have a 'few' rockers and have handled many, I have not studied the markings in detail. My "assumption" and memory said there was a nissan symbol on them. Now looking at the ones on this head, and some of the others, I see really only two patterns. One has a trapezoid symbol, then a 6 (most but not all) with a following dot pattern or number, or a 3 or 4 digit alpha string starting with S and sometimes a dot pattern. It was the little trapeziod I always thought was the Nissan identifier, but admittedly that is a very very old memory Since all but a couple of the 12 on mine where the S type, I assumed them to be ne non-Nissan, but I'm not sure. Anyone with experience in these markings? Cause if they ARE all Nissan, then the pitting and deterioration may be oil choice related or oil volume or something else.

Lash has been stable for a number of years. I'd never attempt to fix the pits, just get fresh surfaced rockers from Delta. I have a 'few' extra's laying around. I wonder if I get a discount if I send them a couple hundred..... Courtesy and couple of other Nissan parts supplies show ~$37 USD per rocker for new ones. Maybe the most surprising thing I see about this is how little damage has happened to the cam given the mileage and rocker condition.