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Track day at Road Atlanta. You might even get to be on the track with John Morton.
Autocrossing, karting, brewery night, mountain drives...You KNOW you want to make it.
Special guests include Toshio Yamashita, designer of the Z32; Yoshihiko Matsuo, designer of the 240Z; and Peter Brock & John Morton, two of the legends from BRE.
Go to http://zcon.org/conventions/2018/?page_id=132 to get to the registration link.
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Here is the episode.
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All - ZCON 2018 host hotel will be at the Sonesta.
In order to book your hotel, you may use the following link and Group Code. They promised to simplify the code after the new year, but this one works so you can get your hotel now.
The event is October 16-20 in Atlanta, GA - the website is www.ZCON.org. Event registration will go live 1/1/18.
Get booked now within the room block for $105/night with free parking and free wifi included. We've extended the group-block two days before and after the event for those coming in earlier or wanting to enjoy the area after the event.
USE BOOKING CODE: 10166823ZC
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Above shows broken stud. I've already center punched it to help get the drill bit centered.
Here was my first choice, screw extractor and left handed drill bits. Tried 2 different sizes, no luck. Plus I'm always afraid the extractor will break off and make further drilling a real pain, so I didn't crank on them too hard.
Since I already had the stock M8 1.25 stud kit, I opted for that size instead of going to a stouter 10M stud. Ordered a real Helicoil kit instead of cheaper knockoff. Kit includes some threaded inserts, a tap, and tool to install inserts into newly tapped hole. Didn't include the 21/64" drill bit, which I had.
Carefully drill, keeping hole perpendicular to surface, and no deeper then existing hole, and centered. I started with 1/8" hole, 1/4", 5/16" then the final 21/64".
Tap the hole, using oil to help get a clean cut. Work tap back and forth and remove a few times to clean out debris.
Insert is threaded in using the tool. There's a little tang at the bottom of the insert that you break off after you get it in place.
Done. Be sure to use anti sieze on the threads when installing new studs. I'm not sure how well this will hold up in the long run, and the repeated hot/cold cycles. I guess I'll find out.
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No such luck, the hole in the knob that fits over the metal tang is too small. Has anyone tride to modigy the knob to fit? The hole seems to be deep enough but either the width or the bredth of the hole would need to be filed to enlarge the hole to fit. My worry is that it needs to be a tight fit so as not to wobble, the set screw seems to do little more than hold the knob in place.
Has anyone tried this? Any advice?
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And it came with a few parts too! Believe it or not 99% of what you see was packed in the car when I picked it up. Who needs an SUV?
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So here it is, my new 1978 Z, as it looked when I brought it home:
I scoured CL for a while and any reasonably-priced cars were getting snatched up in hours. I checked out a handful of cars in my desired price range and
they were all projects well outside my budget or capabilities, so when I found this one I jumped on it. It looked pretty good, and I knew it would be some work, but have uncovered some unexpected surprises in the last couple weeks.
The starter died when I brought the car to the shop so someone more qualified could take a look at it. It failed smog with an illegal cat, gross polluter numbers and an EVAP leak, and almost every nut and bolt I take off has revealed some bodgy-at-best repair work by previous owners. All part of the fun!
I have a lot of plans and a whole lot of work to do, and I sure am grateful for all the helpful folks who have already walked this path before me.
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I've done the measurements and it will fit nicely into a Z.
What do you guys think?
Would I be creating too much of an odd ball?
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Enough talk, lets see your wheels!
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