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Here's the latest wiring diagram. I moved the horn relay to the interior side of the firewall. It was previously shown out in the engine compartment, but in reality it's actually located on the left side of the interior near the driver's left knee and the hood release pull. Changed the way the alternator and voltage regulators make connection to ground. And made a couple of minor wire color changes. And lastly... Thanks to the help from the folks here, it now has condensers. <V7.0> _obvious 240Z Wiring Diagram 7.0.pdf

I got the SU Carburetors back from the doctor. When they were done in 8/2000, with updated throttle shaft bearings at that time, there were 2 holes inscribed "inject grease". I believe the grease I injected caused the seal to leak. With the idle screws turned all the way out, I couldn't get it to idle below 1000 rpms, and I couldn't balance them. Ztherapy got rid of those older style bearings, re-machined the bodies, and plugged the old grease holes. I actually have to turn down the idle screws now to keep it running, unlike before.

I wouldnt touch it. That thing looks great! Supply the OE front lip and whatever else then "happy trails to you..." 😁

Yeah, weird. Another example of the original wiring diagram for the early cars falling short of accurate. The whole reason I started this journey! And I think I'm approaching the end. The mistakes being uncovered up are becoming less severe and less frequent. I'll have the new rev out soon. Changes to the horn system, some power distribution stuff (grounding scheme), and of course, the condensers.

My .02 cents on new alternators. Have it tested before you leave the parts store. I bought one and it blew the glass fuses, maybe not all of them but the car wouldn't crank and my gauges went limp. Ask the guys on here and found out it was "back charging"? Guys at the store were cocky but got alot nicer after it failed their test. Learned something new that day. 🙃

Colour matching is really important.😎

I had thought about making some slotted rubber pucks for the rocker panel seams but at home I just used the diff or the front cross member and the sub frames were dented anyway. I wonder how well a Z would lift using the four points shown in the Owners Manual. Is that not the ugliest drawing of a Z ever? 1973 Owner Manual. Looks like the summer intern did it.

I told my #1 helper and the look on his face was pure disbelief. "WHAT?"

"Anyone else"... Can't tell you how many of these we saw at our shop... Z owners REALLY need to know the lifting points AND make sure the shop or garage KNOWS where they can lift AND WHERE THEY CANNOT! Also HOW they can lift. That fender deformation is not that easy to repair and do it correctly. Unfortunately it's in a spot that's not that easy to notice and most owners don't see it before they leave the offending shop. Shops are famous for crushing frame rails and the flange under the rocker panels besides ruining front fenders...

I got my Datsun Z Car Series Oil Sending Unit Relocation / Remote Block done! I have only one for sale now, but more are on order. I am pretty proud of this design. Three outlet remote oil sending unit block. Metal 3D printed out of aluminum to look stock and mimics the 240z, 260z and 280z brake proportioning block design. Block has 3 outlets, all are 1/8 NPT. Comes with a custom length -3AN hose and one 1/8 NPT -3AN fitting and either a 1/8 BSPT or 1/8 NPT for the engine block side of the hose. Stock sending unit on a 240z is BSPT, this will require a NPT sending unit like this. [https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137](https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137) No sending units come with this order. Pictures of sending units are just for reference. Link: https://www.m2racing.com/shop/p/datsun-z-car-series-oil-sending-unit-relocation-remote-block

Glad it was nine years ago instead of nine months. My memory shelf life is not terrible but not fantastic either.

I agree, I wouldn't touch it

I think it looks Great!

The 240Z engine is a remarkably simple and well-built device... except for the emissions control system. The latter is a train-wreck, typical of the auto industry's late-1960's, analogue-era, pre-ECU/fuel injection, band-aid solutions. The problem was not unique to Nissan. Whether it was the USA, the UK, Italy, France, Japan -- they were universally bad. Why? Because the technology available to the industry that was 'ready for prime time' (i.e. wouldn't get the manufacturer sued for incompetence) was nothing better than a lash-up. In the end, the only answer proved to be a combination of electronic fuel injection + computer control. It took almost 10 years to get there. In Panama, you are re-living the 1970 Los Angeles nightmare -- high temperatures + traffic jams + complicated, ineffective smog equipment technology. Plus -- as I mentioned in an earlier post -- the pssibility that your local gas may be substandard. My advice: 1) Remove all of the emission control equipment; 2) Run the tank dry and then fill up at the biggest, brand-name gas station in downtown; 3) Place your trust in a top-quality auto shop that has a lead mechanic who has proven credentials with carburetors (preferably SU carburetors); 4) Only if steps 1, 2 and 3 can't get the engine running properly should you consider removing the cylinder head.

A good battery will be about 12.6-12.8 volts; 12.2 is very low and indicates it might not hold a charge. A good alternator will read 14-14.5 volts.

Went to Cars & Coffee in Steveston BC this morning, and met up with about a dozen members of the local Zed club I belong to. It was110 km from my house, so it was a great drive too. After the cars & coffee we did a scenic group drive for breakfast to a local Pub for the $5.99 special. Lol. Sadly this the last weekend they will be open, as they are closing after 130 years of service. Sometimes "progress" sucks, the Buck & Ear will be missed. On the way home I also stopped at my favorite, close to me, craft brewery. For some reason I was attracted to this six pack? I think this Dutch Pale Ale is my new go to beer. Lol. And it tastes good too.

I suspect that JAlex's problems may be the result of poor local fuel quality combined with local high-temp conditions. Not sure that any of us are qualified to provide proper guidance on that combination. Maybe not even Nissan. It may prove difficult to find qualified tech help in Panama. That said, I hope the new mechanic proves to be up to the task and this will end with JAlex piloting Panama's best Z on his local streets and highways.

The front end look great! It could easily be changed by the new owner. I suspect if he couldn't figure that out he probably would not be interested in buying a really nice z car.

If the mechanical timing sprocket is on hole #3 it won't rev up very good at the top. I set mine on #3 after I rebuilt the motor with new parts. That advances the the explosion somewhat. I run full advance with the ZX distributor on my '72 240. I think it's 17 at idle and 34 degrees at 3,000 rpms. But it won't go much over 6,200 rpms on the street. Why are you reving it to max sitting still? That's completely nuts. No wonder you are constantly complaining. NO OFFENSE INTENDED It's your car, do what you want.

So @Mike , I tried to delete the old obsolete incorrect previous version of the wiring diagram (version 6.0 on page five of this thread), and the edit privileges will not allow me to do so. I'm assuming there is a time limit on how far back in time one can go to edit something? And that post on Feb 11 has exceeded that time limit? Can we change that? Or at least, can YOU delete it if you won't allow me to do so?

Yes, that would indicate a failed to me as well. It failed open circuit. And by the way, for educational purposes... With the new digital meters, it's pretty much impossible to check diodes integrity using the resistance scale. It needs to be on the diode check setting. If you happen to have an old ANALOG meter with a needle sweep, you can often check diodes with the resistance scale. But analog meters, like the dinosaur, are either extinct, or headed that way. So what SHOULD you have seen? Using the diode check setting, you should have seen "OL" in one direction, and some small voltage in the other direction. Something like 0.50 to 0.80 Volts.

Zedy…..Glad to see you still wearing your steel toed safety socks!!!!

Its been about 4 days and it still keeps time, so I guess it was the bad cap on the working one that didn't keep time.

Since you're in experimentation mode and you have fabricating skills, you might remove the factory mount and fab up a new mount that gives the desired angle. It wouldn't need to be super strong or made for permanence if you're only evaluating cruising speed. Keep the strap in place in case of breakage. It could be a solid mount. If the angle is perfect but the vibration is the same, then you can start looking elsewhere. The RTz mount either gives a certain angle with the GM mount, or it gives a range of angles in use with the snubber, as the diff nose moves up and down. The GM version is an actual mount, the snubber version is essentially a solid strap. p.s. have you considered mounting a camera under the car to see what the diff nose is doing while driving? Maybe something is moving. Or, looking back at your pictures of the crossmembers, why don't you just shim the crossmember mount downward with some washers. Perfect the angle, take it for a drive. then you'll know if you should go further.

Hahahaha!! I've been called worse than stickler as well. And that was just today!! 😄 I'm confident with your attention to detail, that stuff I noticed has already been addressed, or will be in the near future.

Let's see, redline is 7,000 with the yellow zone starting at 6,500 RPM. Keep revving it to 8,000 RPM like you describe and your problem will eventually be solved when you have to replace the engine after it blows up! Oh, when that happens, you might want to select a different engine builder than whoever built this one. There is NO REASON for revving it like you describe, unless you have a death wish for the engine.

You'd better correct or explain this. Otherwise, the CZCC members will write you off for good. Specifically: No one (in their right mind) tries to rev their engine up to 6000 rpm at rest. Hot or cold.

I'm replacing the pump because of low fuel pressure. Looked like nothing back there had been touched since new. So that was the only problem. I alway suffer with the "while I'm at it" thing when I work on my cars.

I've been using slotted hockey pucks as lift pads for several years. They work quite well. Just make sure that the slot is wide enough to keep the puck from wedging itself onto the pinch weld strip and deep enough so that the load is taken by the rocker and floor panel metal on either side of the pinch strip (rather than by the pinch strip itself).

Motorsport Auto | Z Store Has the complete set shock absorbers and springs. For 625 dollar. when you see costs for a "today modern car" this is VERY VERY SHEAP !! I don't get todays cars they are stupidly expensive and brake down all the time.. and just to change a bulb the whole bumper has to come of???!! Welcome to todays technology it's crazy!!! And then all those stupid gadgets,, what? a auto windscreenwiper?? I DECIDE WHEN TO WIPE .. stupid car.. auto lights? going into a little tunnel.. the light flicks ON, and stay on for about a minute. pure waist of energy.. i know.. but if a million cars do this it's a LOT of waisted energy.. Lights on all day.. stupid waist of energy.. are people blind these days.. lights on should be there for motorbikes only during the day.. just my opinion.

Greetings friends!!! Been a while and I have been having lots of fun with kids and fishing and what not. But the Z car has been on a roll lately. I replaced the carbs with more carbs. and I finally have it back to running like a champ. In fact it is running and revving like it used to. Happy days! The peasants were happy! Having said that. I took her for a spin the other day to keep fresh fuel running through the system and just generally keeping it running. Old cars hate to sit. As you all know. Important factoid: I keep my cars on a battery tender any time they are not running to preserve the batteries. I pulled back into the drive way and light footed it and stalled it. After a bit of laughter, I tried to start it and had the annoying clicking of a dead battery. Which is strange as I keep the car on a battery tender all the time. I hooked up the charger for about 2 hours and then the car started fine and I Pulled it in. Now the plot thickens. So something was up. My thoughts are that the battery is about 5-6 years old and it is not unusual for a battery to be DOA after 5 years in the Houston heat. I left it on the battery tender all night and in the morning I disconnected it and it read 12.2 volts. Which seemed a tad low. But maybe not. So as I am oft to do, I started overthinking the issue and that leads to, (more times than not), spending money. Since I was using the original starter that came with the car still (it had never let me down), I talked myself into thinking that the solenoid may be going bad (even though those are usually working, or not, no clicking issue), so now would be a rather handy time to replace that old grimy and dirty Z starter for a shiny new gear reduction starter :) And since I bought a new starter I decided to go ahead and buy a new battery as well while I was at it. Surely that would solve the issue. Well a week later and both were procured and installed. First let me say the gear reduction starter is the coolest sounding starter EVER. Sounds like you are about to start a 1000HP Big block Chevy. LOVE it. Car ran beautifully and started each time. Fast forward to today. I was going to drive in to work in the old gal to bless those in the NASA area with something besides a black or grey SUV to look at. Again this morning I disconnected the batter tender and it started just peachy. But I started to think about many things. There was no reason for my battery to really die before. I had replaced everything BUT the alternator. So just to verify, with the car running, I whipped out my multimeter and checked the voltage of the battery. (I checked it by attaching the multimeter to the positive post and the negative post) With the car at a rock steady 900 rpm, the battery read 12.3 volts. When I revved the engine it read 12.3 volts. It would flicker to 12.4 volts. Now I am thinking my alternator may not be charging. It is my belief that a running car should put out north of 13 volts from the alternator. I am running an old MSA 60 amp alternator kit. My plans going forward are to start up the roadster and see what its alternator puts out while running as a sanity check. Any comments?

time flies guys. My new alternator comes in Monday. I will try just adding the regulator cap to see if that fixes things before I swap out the alternator. I have high hopes

Socorob, Your looking way to deep for the problem. 99% of the time it's a mechanical .Email me , ron@zclocks.com

Haha! I know what you mean. But wow... Was that really NINE years ago? I've been sitting in this same spot for nine years???

Glad to help. Hope you get some good use out of it! Well actually, that's probably not a good sentiment, since it implies you may develop electrical issues that would warrant needing a wiring diagram. So I hope you do NOT get good use out of it! Hahaha!! 😄 In any event, I'm glad to help!

Faulty PCV valve? Not surprised. The quality control for these 'consumable' automotive parts is atrocious (spark plugs may be the only exception). They can cripple a car's performance, but spotting a defective item is difficult. You really need to install your 'tune-up' parts one at a time. If the car's performance collapses, you know you've just installed a new-but-defective part. Moral: Buy only the best -- even though they're just 'routine maintenance' parts. Even then, be alert and be suspicious. The auto business is a low-margin enterprise. Even name-brand 'replacement parts' manufacturers have to skate close to the edge in order to keep their shareholders happy. p.s. They do a much better job when it comes to supplying parts for new cars b/c now there are new-vehicle warranty costs involved and their customers (the auto manufacturer) will pay more to keep those costs under control. In the auto biz, it's all about $$$. I will defer to others when it comes to your fuel pump circuitry. My thesis is all about making the system (your engine, along with its fuel and electrical systems) as simple as can be, so that problems much easier to diagnose. Once that's done, you can add back the complexity (emissions control equipment) as you see fit. If it were me, living in Panama and driving a carbureted 50-year-old classic, I'd limit that to the PCV system. All the rest of the 240Z's emissions control gear, viewed from a 2025 perspective, is -- not to put too fine point on it -- finicky crap.

Remember all the 280s with upward bent front bumpers? ☹️ I had one.

Bruce, Many thanks for all your hard work on this project. Jim

I'd make them pay for the repair

The pics are dead (Cause photobucket sucks!!), but yeah: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/51963-internally-regulated-alternator-trivia-bootstrap-current/ ?

There is no lamp on a 71. On the original 71 alternator, it would be a field wire and alternator neutral on the T plug going to the external VR. Since the car is modified, the field wire is jumpered to the ignition wire, and the neutral wire is jumpered to the battery wire.

Japanese company. Try searching in Japanese: https://atk.co.jp/rebuild/

Awesome. Thanks!! And your prolific use of pics and documentation has helped me on numerous occasions. Keep up the good work!! I'm currently working on a set of carb air cleaner attachment hardware stuff based on a sketch of yours from years ago. 😊

Hey CO, #6521 did originally have a condenser in all four locations listed above. Funny that two of your four pics above are of my car. The pic above with no condenser on the alternator, was from about 10 years ago when I pulled it to do some engine detailing. Prior to the detailing it did have a condenser there, but it was not connected. At the time I just left if off when I re-assembled alternator. Here's a before & after pic. Mystery solved, Lol.

North South it’s still Carolina!!😂

Thanks @Patcon I had not seen that before. It's on order. If heat is a problem maybe we can get a 2fer😃

Bottom line that’s not the way the engine was designed unless he thinks you had a defective thermostat.

You could look at the RT mount and customize the diff angle

Yesterday I gave #957 an overdue wash/detail, top and bottom. I've had six months of ownership, and been caught in the rain a few times during the 700 miles I have put on her so far.

I found these Skechers in Las Vegas on the weekend. The color looked very familiar so I just felt the need to buy them. What do you think of my new 918(ish) driving shoes. 🙂