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    rcb280z

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/05/2020 in all areas

  1. The most common problem that I've seen is dirty/corroded battery connections. Clean them up and try again before buying anything.
    2 points
  2. Hood/fenders and headlight covers looking like liquid gold. The rear bumper is finally done and was easily the 3rd most difficult part. It's intended to look like a shortened and shaved 87-89. But it's the 86 that has been sectioned into 7 pieces, shortened 2-3" and shaved. Everything is finally wrapping up now and all that is left for paint/body is to finish making the front carbon JDM front spoiler fit tighter and then paint the front/rear bumper, side skirts and rear mud guards safari gold. Then all of the trim in the OE satin platinum gunmetal. He will cut/polish the entire car and then wi
    2 points
  3. Well my friend, my original system didn’t have the centre resonator - it was merely 2.5” pipe back from the MSA collector to a Magnaflow turbo box (and later the Z-Story classic muffler) at the back. Apparently this is the classic hot-rod setup that the PO had installed. I merely ceramic coated the lot. Sounded way louder and more aggressive with delicious popping sounds on the overrun. Sounded very race car like, but alas, the droning drilled into your brain when cruising in 4th/5th between 50-70mph and became unbearable for anything more than 5 mins. The popping sounds are still there but
    2 points
  4. I would start with compressed air. Maybe some brake cleaner
    2 points
  5. Negative Effects of ZDDP Generally, high levels of ZDDP result in volatile phosphorus being transferred from the combustion chamber to the catalytic converter. Phosphorus can blind over the catalytic reaction sites in the converter, making it less efficient in turning carbon monoxide (CO) into carbon dioxide (CO2). Beware if you have a catalytic converter.
    2 points
  6. No one feels the pain we feel mbz "almost"
    1 point
  7. I was waiting for that ^^ I had to wait over 3 weeks just for the cat to arrive. Make sure when you order one it's carb approved. If you do it yourself. I'll have to read up on the ZDDP additives again. Don't recall what the hoopla is about. Memory isn't what it used to be I guess. My 77 has nearly 300k miles and I have owned it since 50k miles and have always used Castrol 10-40. The head looks really good, no abnormal wear of any type anyways.
    1 point
  8. Yeah, I kind of figure that since the Royal Purple that the PO has been using for years probably has already affected the Cat. That said, it costs less to replace the Cat than the engine, so I’m going to protect the engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  9. I know it all too well. Except I don't drive it anymore.
    1 point
  10. Unless your car can run clean enough without a functioning cat, for emissions testing, then you'll need a new one to pass emissions. That is if it was damaged by using ZDDP additives. I needed to replace mine and it was just under $300 IIRC. My Z needs it to pass. 0.5 percent CO is hard to get out of these cars without a fully functioning cat.
    1 point
  11. you west coast guys have the nicest places to drive. One of the reasons I want to leave florida is the exceptionally BORING drives. Still hoping for at least some action up in NW Ga as soon as it stops raining every other day.
    1 point
  12. BTW.... had a really nice drive in the Z through Decker Canyon this morning. Decker Canyon Road Anyone familiar with the area knows that drive, and if you haven't driven it, you can take the 23 South from the 101 all the way to PCH.... LOTS OF TIGHT WINDING ROADS AND HAIRPIN SWITCHBACKS.?
    1 point
  13. Exhaust drone, anyone can google it to know the cause but it IS sound freqencies not only from the exhaust but combining with tire noise vibrating up through the chassis too. This is why it's only heard/felt at highway speeds. The simple addition of a resonator eliminates this by allowing the gas to expand therefore altering the freqencies. But a resonator does much more. Not only does it curb the dBs leaving the rear (still plenty loud if wished !) but it encourages exhaust chamber scavenging (again, please Google it) to help release more torque and power. Alis' swap to my Race-Sport header o
    1 point
  14. New batteries can and do fail. I would check the battery voltage first. You can find battery charge/voltage charts on the web. Low horn would/could be another indicator of a low battery . After running and shut down the battery would have been charged some and the engine is warm.
    1 point
  15. You should have mentioned this from the beginning. Side to side, the engine is fine. Front to back is your concern and, as grannyknot said, your driveline angle is important, although it's not the driveshaft angle that matters the most. It's the match between the rear diff pinion shaft and the engine's crankshaft, they need to be parallel. You can jack the ends of the car up to get the oil to drain, if that's a problem. There are how-to's all over the internet. Here's some examples from the past. jmortenen's link to the hybriz site has a bunch, in detail. https://forums.hy
    1 point
  16. Starter solenoid may be going bad. They can go bad even when they sit
    1 point
  17. This is what I used... Car ran great. But the tach was just bouncy when I got on it at all.
    1 point
  18. The "levelness" of the engine isn't anywhere near as important as the driveline angles for the driveshaft. As I understand it you are swapping in a different trans and have to make up a new or modified trans mount so just concentrate on the driveline angles, you want to make sure that you are not altering the angle on one end of the driveshaft without compensating on the other. Unequal angles can get you some terrible vibrations at certain rpms as well as wear out the ujoints prematurely, if a few ounces of used oil remain in the pan after an oil change that is not going to hurt anything.
    1 point
  19. Yeah, I’m about 30 mins south of you, so we have the same draconian California overlords telling us how to live our lives. [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  20. I know how difficult it is to pass smog (Ventura County) so I don't chance it. Your emissions testing is the same as mine, PITA.
    1 point
  21. I don't use it for the reason above. Hopefully someone will chime in if they have some info contradicting it.
    1 point
  22. I have been using it 4 yrs now and love it, bit expensive but I get distributor pricing, I use it in Datsun and BMW engines and down in LA you would have no problem with the viscosity, it's also available in 10w40.
    1 point
  23. That's interesting, opening up the system decreased the drone. I have been fighting drone for yrs now and all my efforts seem to do is move it up or down the rpm range.
    1 point
  24. Frenchie, I hope you don’t mind me commenting here - happy to delete if you object. Before buying Sean’s full Race / Sport system, I ran the MSA header with 2.5” back to a turbo muffler on both my L26 and it’s replacement hot L28. Due to a shotgun sounding misfire I managed to utterly blow the baffles and Sean very kindly and speedily (at his cost!!) sent me his Classic muffler to help me out of a hole and able to get to an event I really wanted to go to. The classic is a straight through (spot the Z I worked hard to get into the pic!! [emoji12]) I was absolutely jaws on the floor
    1 point
  25. For #1 ... the driveshaft length with yours should be fine. For #2 ... in the spirit of "light restoration" examine the u joints for play carefully, replace if any is detected, not costly and easy to do yourself. If you put in greaseable joints, be sure to orient the joint so that when the half shaft rotates to give you access the the zerk fitting, it is accessible.
    1 point
  26. Get a new tail shaft seal I thinks it's called. I used one of those rubber end caps, 2" I think" on my trans end to keep it from spilling out. That stuff is nassstayyyy!
    1 point
  27. https://www.healthline.com/health/erectile-dysfunction/zinc#zinc-deficiency
    1 point
  28. Okay, I am back! And it has been a productive last couple of days. Propane torch and the jack worked great to break it loose and I was able to drain the differential of oil. I have now dropped the differential, mustache bar, cross members, drive shafts and a few other miscellaneous parts and pieces for clean up and powder coat prep. Few questions: 1. Is the propeller shaft different from the 4 speed to the 5 speed on the 77/78 280z? Saw a note of this on the Haynes manual related to 240z and 260z, but wanted to verify it was the same for 280zs as I was under the impressio
    1 point
  29. I would unhook the lines from the rail and try to blow compressed air into the rail from the return line end. See if it's debris stopping up the end of the rail. The rail may be fuel of garbage or rust even
    1 point
  30. No, it should be open. That being closed off will raise the effective pressure on the float valves
    1 point
  31. Some more work on the nacelles today. After I got them coated with truck bed liner on the inside, I prepped them for paint. The last picture shows the high gloss clear coat and you can even see the ceiling filter and burnt out fluorescent bar! Very happy.
    1 point
  32. I have a later copy that lists more 280Z stuff. Haynes is usually one of the better non-OEM books. But on important specs, I always check against the FSM.
    1 point
  33. Just checked my book shelf and I found that I still have a Haynes manual but it's older than yours, has only 240Z and 260Z content, no 280Z at all. However I found this on the Haynes website, it now lists the 280Z on the front cover. I wonder if they added more content. https://haynes.com/en-us/nissan/280z/1975-1978 This one has 256 pages, my old one has 229 pages. How many pages in yours? Cheers and Happy New Year Mike
    1 point
  34. In 2020 I will have been producing performance exhausts for 10 years ! Firstly, I would like to thank all my loyal customers over the years to make this happen and I’ve been rewarded in return by having many of you as friends. I’d also like to thank all those Z-professionals and track, rally and hill-climb competitors who continue, respectively, to sell and exploit my parts ! To celebrate this I’ve produced some exclusive super-goodies which I’m including as gifts* with each 2020 order and so as to be clear : Silencer, muffler order = free keyring (your choice) Manifold/hea
    1 point

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