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Made a little more progress today: I received this from Japan on Friday I also got these in on Friday. Thanks to @w3wilkes he gave me a link to 18racing.com. There were about $75 cheaper for the set than anywhere else I found them. I bought some new Rota RB's. These are 7x16 +10. I ordered some lugs and valve stems today They are really hard to describe. They are "Hyperblack". They look black from certain angles but have a lot of metal flake in them that makes them look metallic grey. I was going to buy Konigs but I really like the look of the Rota's so I spent the extra. I may try to run a 225 tire. I would really like to end up in a 245 tire one day if I can make it fit. One step at a time... I installed the heater valve today. You have to get the clamps all oriented correctly because there is not a lot of room in this location. I also put in the heater fan. I used a little peal and seal at the outside air vent to close that up I am using the ratty heater fan for now. I may upgrade the fan to the Honda unit, so I was waiting to see what needed to happen until I had it on the road Here is the label on the windshield Same as @emccallum I believe Here are the 300zx turbo wheel axles. The drivers side is 16mm shorter than the passenger side. I also got the hatch on the car. I did it buy myself because I wanted to see if I could. It's still too high and needs a little more adjustment, but it's on. I will install the strut soon and work on the glass and inner weather strip soon. I hate doing weatherstrips because I always struggle to get them to stick... I also worked on the parking brake cable some more. I need to weld the other end and then see if my re-engineering worked. Also does anyone has any good defroster tubes? @Terrapin Z?

I'm happy to say this car is an unrestored example, other than a respray several years ago. Well documented 50,000 mile car. Sat in storage most of its life.

I'm a professional pilot flying Boeings, but spent many years as an A&P mechanic on the DC-8 and DC-9s for a couple different airlines. I used to fly DC-9s, which was another fantastic Douglas product. That's one tough airplane to work on, but have fixed many with a Leatherman.

The stamp on the back of them has a number and a R or L for right or left. These are 55L on top and 55R on the bottom

I was wondering what those bosses were for. I couldn't find any internal feature that would explain the necessity for those on the outside. I got it now. So you were talking about tapering the fins so the part would release from the mold. In molding speak, they call that "draft", as in... "Are you sure you have enough draft on those surfaces so the part can be removed from the mold?" I'm no mold expert, but it's my understanding that you only need draft if you are splitting the mold open into reusable pieces such as opening a die after die-casting. You aren't doing that with sand or investment casting. With sand and investment casting, you remove the mold in little pieces and don't need to salvage any of the original mold. And because of that destructive (to the mold) process, draft is not required. Now, it might help for other reasons like better feature definition or mold filling without air pockets or porosity, but I don't think you specifically need draft like you would with a die-casting. As to the specific question... "How thin can I make the fins?" I would ask the foundry for guidance on that. And about the holes... I'm assuming you will be drilling all those in post-casting. You aren't going to to try to have any through holes cast right into the part, right? And about accuracy of "as cast" surfaces, I'm assuming you'll be machining any critical dimensions into the finished part. If there's a sealing surface or bolt hole, etc, you'll be finish machining that and not counting of that coming out of the mold with enough accuracy. The thicker the material, the greater the shrinkage. Lastly, have you talked to the foundry about the locations of gates and vents? In my experience, things to consider... Locations for gates and vents for proper fill and prevention of trapped air bubbles. Uneven or too rapid cooling. Sink marks on thicker sections or where different cross section thickness intersect. Porosity in the final part and how deep you need to machine precision surfaces. Warping or twisting of large parts. Sorry for the novel.

I highly recommend the contact adhesive I am using. If you let it sit for about 2-3 minutes after applying to the body and the rubber, it sticks extremely well.

Cody worked on the parking brake some more. We made some bushings. We took bushings and turned the outside down on sandpaper using a long sandper roll on an arbor and then we made to enlarge the ID to make them work. He also put a end on the cable \ He lost one of the clevis pins. Luckily his dad is a hoarder and had a freshly plated one that I made him a deal on. 😉

Small things again today. Primed some stuff inside, added some pegboard near the door, and since the sun was out the past couple days, the snow cleared outside. I started putting the siding up while I can, even if it was only 30ºF in the sun. Supposed to rain later in the week, so I'd like to get it done before then

That adhesive is about $100. I actually have some conductive adhesive for attaching aluminum heat sinks to electronic components. I might give that a try and see if it helps during an Auto-X (and see if they stay attached).

Some quite hare-brained 'solutions' being offered here. The original question was answered in period by the factory in their Race & Rally Preparation manuals. They recommended cooling of the oil by means of a pump and small heat exchanger, giving data for drilling the diff housing and rear cover for the insertion of tubes to collect the oil and then spray (cooled) oil on the CW&P: A similar electric pump & cooler system was adopted as standard equipment on some of the S130-series variants and up into S31-series. Rear covers with extra oil capacity and cooling fins are all well and good, but positive circulation, cooling and the directed spray of cooled oil are going to be more effective. A lot depends on on how 'tight' your LSD setting is. Generally speaking, high breakaway settings generate more heat.

It's a nice car, I'm lucky to have it. It waited its entire life for me to drive it, and I do.

Lovely Datsun 240Z, love the airport setting. Used to fly 727, 757 and 767 in a previous career for a defunct airline down under. Know lots of pilots that had 240Zs. Still have 4 240Z but build drones now that go bang or peep!

Looks like you added fins inside the cover. Here's an interesting video from a guy who has a bunch more on the topic on his Youtube channel. He's selling parts of course, but he does raise some interesting points.

Once an insult shows up the rest doesn't matter. That's what it boils down to, for me. Maybe it's a cultural thing. We have different values. You seem to be saying that a person who contributes to a discussion gains the right to insult other people in a discussion. The more they contribute, the more insults they're allowed. That's just not how I work. You're focused on the punch. I'm saying that the turd is still right there where everybody can see it. The punch is ruined. Stop defecating in the punch bowl please. It's pretty simple. It just takes a small amount of self-control. Read your post before clicking "Submit Reply". Remove the insults. I have written whole paragraphs myself but not posted them. I knew that they would not advance the discussion, or add to the forum, whichever one I was participating in. It takes some objectivity though. It can be difficult. Good luck. There's really not much more to say on this matter.

It must be my tired old eyes, can't even see them! lol

Looking great. Its game on now. My defroster hoses had been modified by mice. I got some decent replacements from datsun rescue. I need to go through my "extra" box and get you some pictures to see if you can use any of it.

With some help from a friend, I put the windshield in the car today. I have done this on a 240Z only once before, back when I was restoring my track 240Z in 1993. I also have put a couple of Datsun 510 windshields in. For the "rope" in the channel, I use 12 gauge insulated multi-stranded wire. Perhaps rope would be better, but I like the solid feel of the wire rather than what I imagine might be a "stretchy" feel of rope. Additionally, I use dish soap (slightly watered down) and an acid brush, applying it onto the frame of the car and the windshield rubber gasket where it contacts the body. I try to eliminate friction so the rubber lip that has to be pulled inside the car is free to move. This time, I used black urethane adhesive and put it on the windshield frame where shown in the diagram in the factory workshop manual. What an mess it made during the installation procedure! I got it all over the place, and it easily took 2 hours to clean it off the car and off of me. I decided to put the stainless trim in after installing the windshield. Wish me good luck on not tearing the rubber as I install it. I have yet to examine it and correct any scratches, so that will have to come first.

My guess is that the Datsun garage dash is supplied by Vintage Dashes. Perhaps they got a bulk order discount at the time. I know that Jay, owner of jdmcarparts.com, distributes his parts to Motorsports and other Z suppliers. I think Vintage Dashes does the same thing. Not a lot of people out there making Dashes. Datsun Garage dash may be a blem. Also, FWIW, I love the Vintage Dashes. I have assembled and installed 4 of them and they look great. I have done 2 Just Dashes and they are good, but do not maintain the shape of the original dash. I was not happy with how they shaved the foam over the 3 center gauges. The foam was thicker in that location than the original. I posted pics of the difference on one of my blogs here. Both companies use the same black plastic overwrap and have the same grain, which is different from the original but not a big deal. Only nerds like me pay attention to material textures. Also, I can relate to your windshield loss. I accidentally dropped a head onto an original Z windshield when working in tight quarters at my old house. I was crushed.

Yeah, that looks more like it!

That’s what I was doing - look much better. Appreciate everyone’s input

It took me a few minutes to reconcile things since you are only showing one part of the circuit. Yes, that looks correct to me. Since you have pulled the ammeter out, yes, you could pull the power for the B terminal from the B terminal on the alternator. I suggest putting a 10A inline fuse into the circuit near the alternator to protect the wiring if that's the direction you go.

Yes, the hose is usually held in place on the air cleaner with this clip.

@HusseinHolland What you've done is amazing. You should design the layout for the next Space Station. Just looking at your shop is like a museum, awe inspiring the way you make use of every available inch of space. Cliff

ITB update! I got the dog bones/ rods shortened, design and had the cable mount made plus the fuel rail mounts. It’s almost ready to bolt in! I might try some surface finishing on the cnc intake. I don’t love the look of it.

6' doesn't sound like much but in 18' it's 30% and in a space that tight inches matter. I love the feel of an organized shop! One day I might have one but I will probably have to be closer to retirement too.

He said he's going to Pertronix II, so there won't be points.

Funny. You've been adding Likes to one side of it...

Apparently it's OK when you do it first. EG post #2547 on this thread. Not in any way hypocritical though, right? Noted that you keep referring to me as 'HS30' rather than 'HS30-H', despite me pointing it out to you. Tic? Purposely passive-aggressive? Dyslexia? Whichever, noted (again). This is not the first thread that you've done it on, either. Curious, that. Are you perhaps a little... er, Special..? The Swift quote is - I think - perfectly appropriate. It refers to Carl Beck who, despite the careful writings of Chief Engineer Hitoshi Uemura, chooses to believe advertising and sales-related flannel over hard facts and - yes - logic. Cognitive Dissonance, perhaps? Of course, the few of us who really get it love him just the way he is. Any kind of St. Paul-style Damscene volte-face would leave us bereft. He's our Wizard of Oz and we don't really want to see what's behind the curtain. Reasons un-imagined - let alone unknown - to you, Tonto. Ever thought of that? Probably not. Both @Gav240z and myself ('HS30-H', get it?) were active on this forum at least seven years before you pitched up. Maybe you need to do a little revision? A fair bit happened before you blessed us with your advice on the best spark plug gaps. Not that the technical advice isn't valued. Just that you might want to step away from the background Japanese historical stuff before you get into trouble. The water is a little deeper than you might expect. Haven't you even got a M*A*S*H meme? Poor show. Here's the thing. You seem more interested in me than the topic in hand. You have not made any attempt to address the differences between my* claims and those of Carl Beck. I'm talking about Z-related history, you're talking about me. By all means engage on the topic and refute my claims. I welcome reasoned debate. It is the very essence of the forum format. Think of me - if you don't already - as a messenger boy, sent by grocery clerks to collect a bill. Challenge the bill, not me. (*I say 'my', but I'm quoting Chief Engineer on the S30-series Z project Mr Hitoshi Uemura. A man whom I have met and conversed with in Japan several times on the subject. The words are - essentially - his, not mine). Yes, the digression is off-topic and I have already agreed that it would be better if it was moved, but the best person to do that as far as I can see is @Mike and I defer to him if he wants to set up a new topic to address that. Meanwhile you've obviously got a hard-on for me. I'm flattered (*blush*). Maybe you need to start a new topic too? One tip: Make sure to get my user name right. It's 'HS30-H', not "HS30". Actually, here's another top tip: For Full Effect (note those capitals) read my posts out loud in the voice of Stewie Griffin. Yes, loud. Wear a diaper too, perhaps? You're probably already half way there anyway, but give it a shot. Close the door so your mother doesn't hear you though. She might think you've lost the plot.

No, we are not reusing any molds, these are new molds made by us over the last 3 years from NOS fender samples.