Leaderboard

There has been some more progress at the paint shop. It looks nice from what I can see in these pictures. I see that they did as I requested with regard to painting the car without taping off the wheel wells and presumably, the underside of the floor also. My intent was to attempt to replicate the paint done at the factory originally. Those areas of the car received overspray as the primary body surfaces were painted. They departed from my instructions by painting the inside of the car and the outside of the car at different times, and by removing the hood, cowl panel, headlight housings, and fuel door. Those, I assume were sprayed separately (or will be) along with the rear hatch panel. It will be interesting to see the body in person. I am curious to see if the surfaces "moved" due to shrinkage of filler/primer over the last 6 months. Hopefully, it is straighter than when I gave it to them, as they certainly went over it as part of the work done. I have seen over and over how painted fresh from the shop, panels are super straight, and then months later, they aren't due to shrinkage. This car has had considerable amounts of time sitting, so hopefully there will not be additional shrinkage post paint having been applied. I am looking forward to getting it back and starting the assembly process!

most likely the 10uf or .22uf cap, Easy fix as long as you dont smoke the TINY wires of the coil when messing about with it. That was what it took to get mine going.

Not needed if you only get the back part. You can get to the screws on the back using the instructions I posted.

If any of the wire on the negative side of the pump before the switch gets pinched and grounded the switch won't help. Unless you mount it close to the pump. So, at least be careful with how you run the ground wire.

Wow... And "turbo lag"? 🙄 sigh... If you're not doing a turbo swap, at least go with ITB's and NOT SU's or Triples (I'd favor SU's over triples if you must). Jim's Swiss 240Z with just a mild cam and ITB's (and a good tune with a decent ECU) made 180 RWHP (prob a 110 HP engine before) - which is kinda stock turbo numbers but won't have the torque of the L28ET. Lastly, if you're not going to turbo swap, get those L28ET's to someone who will use them! Really lastly - why in heck would you ask about anything turbo in this forum???

Let see, an engine in another Z, a couple of 280ZX turbo motors and a V07 crank lying around. You know they have therapy for that kind of behavior🤣 No real experience with either option, but I'm leaning towards the turbo camp. Turbo with an aftermarket MS ecu or similar to aid in tuning. I'm also quite happy to sit on the fence and watch this develop.

turbo, just so I can follow along and get inspired to take mine off the run stand and install it in the Z.....

Is it really necessary to trash other people's car's on here. It's one thing to question if things are done correctly or not but outright criticism is really bad manners.

If it is noisy inside it will at least drown out the cries of dismay from anybody with good taste who is unfortunate enough to encounter it. This car used to be part of the 'Larry Steppe' collection which seemed to be in some sort of curious arrangement of elastic ownership with 'The 240Z Guild'. I note 'The 240Z Guild' has said that the car changed hands before this BAT auction, but I'd take that with a very large pinch of Sodium Chloride. What a munter it is. The overfenders appear to have been fitted in the dark and George Foreman probably doesn't want that dinky little grill(e) back now. Had a chuckle at the tall claim that the 'G' nose on the car was sourced from a Japanese police car, although plenty of people will probably swallow that one whole.

I don't recall ever seeing security screws on the ignition switch module, and that includes 2 new Beck Arnley full switches that had Nissan part numbers on them. (I never knew Beck Arnley was a Nissan supplier until I bought them.) On the other hand while it's security via obscurity, it is not a trivial task to get to those screws. It would be a determined thief doing that, and at that point he's going to take your car pretty much any way he can. I have replaced the ignition switch module on a car just as I described. It helps to have a stubby screwdriver or a mini ratcheting bit set like pictured below.

$85k reserve not met

Ahhhh, You provide more education here!!! And no tuition required 😂😂

Road Atlanta 1977. Taken by Paul Woodbury. Different Drummer Racing. Where is it now?

I used to have this little money pit and it had Turbo LAG! 1977 930 When I bought it the guy said "have it pointed in the direction you want to go before you put your foot in it, if you don't pay attention and skip this rule the back of the car will pass the front". It was a blast for a few years, but to rich for my blood.

Kind of a sexy Z behind Newman…

Thinking back it might be that I had found that I could not get to the two small screws of the electrical contact portion without removing the whole switch. Maybe I just didn't have the right tools. Meaning I had to grind one of the anti-theft screws. Whatever it was, it wasn't a simple process. Good luck to NightSpark. Edit - actually, it might be that I did what SteveJ suggested instead of grinding the screw. Who knows, can't remember. I do remember having a switch from a parts car that had a loose pin on the back though. That's the one that I restaked to fix.

Too funny! Because you're here! 😉

I few documentation pics from my 6/71 car: Left side front seat mount outboard, inboard: Right side front seat mount outboard, inboard: A couple of the back seat mounts: Interesting details, left side: Quarter windows - looks to have been applied after they were installed! Underside of front frame rails:

Could it be the module on the back of the switch? Yep. It could, and I know from helping other people that the symptoms can make it look like a bad ignition relay. The nice thing is that you can replace the back of the switch with an OEM part. The part number is 48750-E7705. You can try Courtesyparts.com or Nissanpartsdeal.com. Either site is reliable. To replace: Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the cover from the steering wheel. Unplug the connectors from the combo switch and ignition switch. You may want to label them for faster reassembly. Remove the 4 bolts under the steering column that holds it to the dash. Push down on the steering column so you can access the screws on the back of the ignition switch and remove the old switch. Install the new switch and reverse the disassembly process. Curse under your breath if you didn't follow my suggestion in step 3. Re-attach the negative cable and test.

@SteveJ, I spent some time with the car this morning and I have something interesting to report. I installed the four fusible links on the passengers side strut tower (mine were corroded at the wire connections, so I figured this would just be good maintenance at this point), and put the relay in. Upon turning the key to on, there didn't seem to be any difference whatsoever. I tried actuating the turn signals, and that just seemed like it put more load on the system and made the seatbelt light go off. I thought about what you had said regarding the fuses, and even though they had tested fine with the fuse tester, I pulled them all out and had a look. Turns out, the inside link of the fuses themselves had what looked like to me, oxidation and/or corrosion. I replaced the fuel pump level fuse, the turn signal fuse (basically what fuses you mentioned are in that fuse box that could be related to my issue). I turn the key to on, and the car came to life. Brake light was bright and shiny, fuel gauge went up to E (i only have four gallons in the tank assuming it was dry, so the sender might be off), the charge light illuminated on the volt meter, it seemed like the fuses themselves, while they tested good, were causing the issue. I tried activating the turn signals via the stalk. Left turn signal just illuminates and stays on, the right one will work inside and outside the car. I do not have reverse lights, and the AC blower motor doesn't work. At this point I started the engine, and the tach was reading about 500~ RPMs. The engine was behaving exactly how it did before though, running rough and dying when I would attempt to give it throttle. It did however restart when I tried, but I have no idea if it restarting a few times was just coincidental luck. One thing I did notice though, My thoughts are beginning to shift to the ignition switch as a possible culprit? I switched the key to ON and pushed/wiggled the key (it stayed in the ON position during this, I didn't change positions of the key physically), and the seatbelt light lost power. I pushed and jiggled it again and the seatbelt light came back on. I'm glad the fuses turned out to be the cause as to why a lot of things weren't working, but with those seemingly fixed, is it possible the ignition switch is malfunctioning with how it is behaving? I'm still stumped about the way the engine is running; It starts, but it doesn't run well and will die on throttle like I mentioned.

My car when I disassembled it in 1999 - the seat mount brackets look to have been spray painted as overspray is visible on the inner rocker.

From what I remember about ZX turbos it was all or none. I think I'd like the stroker motor best. 🙊

I'm firmly in the stroker camp, boo turbo. Ztherapy SU's are great but you could go for a set OER triples or the fuel injected triples 😁

I'd be partial to the stroker. Less in the wiring without the turbo and FI. The Z Therapy carbs are close to bullet proof. Also with the stroker there is no "turbo lag". Just my 2¢.

My 10/70 build had carpets..

mine is 5-71 and had the rubber mats... i think it's the same with all the changes that where applied through the months/years, some old stock was used on some later cars to, untill the left overs where gone, some earlier ones might have the rubber mats switched to carpet, and some not ?

That comment was in reference to the generic "exceptional investment opportunity for collectors" sales fluff that they all seem to trot out. When (and if) the new owner - or any future 'investor'/'collector' - check the car out thoroughly they will probably be in for a few surprises. What concerns me is - for example - a 1970 production-dated car being sold as a 1969 production-dated car (with, I'm convinced, some perceived value added for that 1969 cachet) and it being described as having the correct R192 differential when it arrived in the UK from Japan with an R180 in its place and it left the UK that way. There are many, many other examples. A simple Google search of the chassis number brings up a fair amount of past discussion of the car. If I was intending to fork out that kind of money for a rare car I think I'd do a little Due Diligence first. They could buy a much better car from Japan - without the irreversible issues and question marks - for not much more than they just paid.

And again…