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White ChriZmas here in Oregon for all Z big and small. Enjoy the season!

After I posted about changing out the inner bushings for the LCAs back in September, @Captain Obviousposed the question, "Did you remember to load the suspension before tightening the bolts?" If I had of bothered the RRTFM (That's re-read...), I maybe would have remembered. I figured that I should make a video of tightening the bolts since it may help someone figure out how they can do it. (Hint: Ramps!) I finally got around to editing it enough to post. This also gives you guys something to watch between unwrapping presents and watching football (or cooking the turkey/goose/ham/etc.). Merry Christmas!

Great video - it is important that people understand the need to tighten/torque suspension bushings with the weight of the car sitting on the suspension, so the bushing is clamped down at the center of its up/down movement. If nothing else take the car to a shop with a drive on lift - and pay them put it up in the air for you. My only suggestion is - get yourself a good brass hammer, to apply to the end of the wrench - and quite beating on your hands.

Hi, I looked at magazines in my room and I couldn’t find any clear pictures of the diff oil cooler installed on other Works cars. There is a picture of 1973 Safari Winner car’s fuel filters and pumps, and hand written diagram! By the way, I didn’t know the 1973 Safari Winner has extended seat brackets like a Fairlady Z series even that car is LHD. Is it unusual isn’t it? Note the steel protector underneath of the diff, the picture is 1971 Safari Winner. It has straight floors, unbelievable for the car won the toughest rally at that time. Kats

I could have used a rubber mallet if I had just been willing to crawl out from under the car and walk over to the workbench to get it. With my knees I have to economize on those trips.

I went a little different route with my rocker switch. Since the hand throttle was removed I repurposed the slot.

Haha! Try to stay warm, my friend!!

It's not a complex part. It just has to fit the hole and be strong enough to clamp the center tube of the bushing in place. Germany is metric. Looks like zKars gave the dimensions in post #2. Good luck. Merry Christmas.

The image on the zcardepot web page looks like a DIN metric bolt that has an larger hex size on the head and the thread length looks longer. Originals are JIS metric with a 19mm hex size. The zcardepot ones I'm sure will fit, I just wonder if the overall length is adjusted to compensate for the longer thread length.

https://zcardepot.com/products/front-lower-control-arm-bolt-240z-260z-280z

Wilkes, I have not touched the wiring to this particular bulb, so don't think it is a problem. Looking to attack this problem this next week, will report back!

It's been pretty cold here too. It went below zero last night, and hit about 20 today in the sun. Tomorrow I think is supposed to be slightly warmer... Like 26 maybe? In any event, mighty cold. But still way warmer than the north central US and central Canada, so I'm not complaining. That's brutal.

By the way, compliments of the season to all Works rally Z fans!

I was told that the advantage of the oil/fuel heat exchanger diff cooler was that - on a rally car - it was not so vulnerable to damage and/or blockage in the way that a traditional air-cooled 'radiator' would be. It gets pretty messy underneath the car in rally conditions. Nissan's Works team used traditional type coolers on their diffs for circuit racing duties. The parts were available to buy from the Sports/Race Options list and the Nissan Sports 'Yellow Books' gave advice on fitting:

Nissan had used the little fuel/oil heat exchanger (its actually a 130-series Cedric/Gloria part) as a diff cooler on the 510-series Bluebird Works rally cars (winning the East African Safari Rally with them in 1970) and engineered a similar system for the first batch of 240Z Works rally cars (entered in the 1970 RAC Rally). However, there was some debate over whether diff cooling would be an issue given that the RAC Rally was traditionally held in the depths of the British winter, and before the rally the team mechanics removed the heat exchangers and pumps from the cars in a quest to save weight and simplify. Cue trouble. Without the coolers the diffs got very hot indeed and that extreme heat weakened the thread locking compound on the crownwheels, causing bolts to loosen, back out and catch on the housing. Spare diffs were carried on the team service cars, but they used them all up. The replacements - of course - failed in the same way. Aaltonen and Easter managed to nurse their car to a 7th place finish, but Fall/Phillips, Herrmann/Schuller and Bloxham/Salt all retired with differential failures. Seems the diff coolers would have been beneficial after all.

My computer is 'frozen up'

Did someone say V-3 kit? Part2 A little color to what may be for some a very boring tale. As I mentioned - the Datsun dealer that was employing me circa 1972-1976 was in the heart of Bethesda, MD on a very busy main road. Bethesda, home of the National Institute of Health, and my birth place, The Bethesda Naval Hospital, is just outside DC. The dealership had been a Dodge franchise in its past life. The showroom could accommodate 5 cars and the service department had 10 bays and room for a a modest parts department. The chassis dyno and a flat stall were in a dedicated building adjacent to the main shop. For an early 20s hot shot mechanic like me and my mates the area had a very positive vibe. There were lots of excellent places for lunch well within walking distance. There were 2 high end stereo stores - remember them - only a couple of blocks away. AND, the streets were populated with lots and lots of attractive well dressed women! Think the Shelby Venice shop in "Ford Vs Ferrari" but with suits and dresses instead of bikinis. Final chapter to follow.

I suspect our resident librarian is too cold... Huddled up in a chair in front of the space heater with a warm fireball? Let me cover for him on this one: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/35919-new-challenge-anyone-had-warped-tail-light-flanges-before/#comment-644526

So I remembered another box in the shop... Looks like these came out of Australia in 2017... But they have their own issues. Something got spilled on them and it dissolved the lens So I figured what the heck. Some 320 -> 400 -> 800 -> 1500 paper Then the buffer I also have this box of US tail lights. The lamp housings all have the same part number. So I have 3 or 4 of each side. So I can pick the best of the lot to make a complete set. Also, here are some pictures of the felts in the bottom of the housing that John mentioned I would still like to know who have the jig for flattening tail lights flanges. @siteunseen Come on dude, where's the Google Fu?

Interesting - I would love to know exactly what diff coolers they were prepared to install for customers, and where they would put it. This is the point where we as enthusiasts wish the designers would be able to to start quoting part numbers, haha! For others who are following this thread: anecdotally (and I don't have the exact figures in front of me ), differentials seemed to play a significant role in rally retirements during the early years. As a solution, the "Fuel-as-diff-coolant" strategy does appear a bit outlandish to me on its surface, and it's effectiveness is clearly very dependent on the amount of fuel left in the tank, among other things. I can't really speak to whether it actually provided a noticeable reliability improvement versus not having it at all. But it is certainly a creative, compact solution!

No screws that I recall, except for the components that attach to the firewall. When I took the insulation off the firewall of my 7/70 I found that there was some adhesive, but not as much as was attaching the insulation to the transmission tunnel. I did notice that the cutouts in the firewall insulation were a tight fit to the firewall metal protrusions for attaching components, which aids in holding the insulation in place. Here are a few pics of mine, I am lucky in that I can reuse my insulation as it came off in decent shape.

I would suggest you use glazier's mastic 'rope' as the sealant between the tail light lens and housing. It'll provide all the seal that you need and it's not so sticky as to make future disassembly a problem. The alternative is liquid window caulking. There is a 'strippable' version (clear) that would probably be a better bet than the more permanent types. Don't overlook the little drain holes at the bottom of each lens. Each drain hole should be fitted with a small rectangle of felt (cut to shape from a sheet of 1/8" thickness, purchasable from a crafts store like Michael's). The purpose of the felt is to keep small, uninvited visitors (spiders, etc.) from setting up house inside your tail light assembly. The lenses will come up nicely with buffing. Try not to buff away the raised manufacturer's info. You'll need to leave that area as-is.

Progress on engine dismantling, everything came apart easily. No broken bolts or anything seized in place. Block stripped down to be boiled out before painting in Datsun "Blue". Started work on rear brakes. Have new Nissan/Datsun hardware and NOS Datsun Akebono brake shoes. Rear hubs disassembled and NOS Datsun bearings prepared to be pressed in place. Question, should the rear inner hub flange be black or gold zinc plated like in the attached picture?