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All good here. Lots of wind damage around the neighborhood and my house took a minor amount of damage but Irma, a couple of years ago, was worse. We didn't get much flooding.

all clear, no damage.

Don't know how interesting this is, but I got my 280Z back in 2013, car had 337k miles on it, the story was the original owner was an air force pilot who drove the car constantly from California to Florida. 1975 280Z California model. Currently has 352k on the clock.

Thanks for checking in, all good in my area!

Not sure how interesting it is, but one of my old Z's was a '72 that I had to sell back in 2003 when I was moving. The new owner had it a few years and put a lot of money into it before he was forced by his wife to sell it. The next buyer got a job transfer to France and he took the Z with him to Paris. I lost track of him a while back, but it was cool to see my old Z with European plates in his yard. @Lazeum was a member here, but I'm not sure if he still has the car or is active on this site.

Got the gauges ready, clock converted, and right dial in the tach, and tested. I had a small paper gasket on the back side of the speedometer dial, around the needle shaft, that came loose, and it dropped down slightly covering part of the odometer, so had to take speedo apart to remove that. Cleaned lenses with Meguiar's PlastX, which worked good. As I was putting the clock back in the new dash, I noticed the dash holes were a bit tight, and had to pry the opening a little while pushing the gauge from the back. I didn't like the idea of prying on a new dash, even if it was a plastic tool. So, I found a plastic bottle, just the right size to fit through the dash hole, and fit around the gauge bezel rim, after cutting at a matching angle. And it was slightly tapered, smaller at the ending I poked through the dash hole first, wider at the gauge end. Once the bottle is shoved halfway through the hole, I put the gauge up inside the open end of the bottle and pushed gauge up against the back of the dash, and pulled bottle off. Worked great, plus no messing around the front of the dash gauge opening. I think it was a Clorox wipe bottle, but I'm keeping it! I'll bet the factory had something similar, but better. Gauges are mounted. Moved the old clock wires over to the new clock wiring, and have an adjustment switch ready to mount somewhere, not sure where yet. I also have this leftover part, that white spacer that fell out while removing the gauges. Can't for the life of me figure out where it goes, or even if it's needed. If anyone recognizes it, please let me know. 🤔 Now the fun part, connecting wires back up.

And don't forget about @Carl Beck

Couple tags off the top of my head: @Dave WM @Derek @Serban @tunesnxs @26th-Z

Have you seen this new release from Nissan? https://global.nissannews.com/en/pages/all-news-archive Lots of Nissan News publications dating back to 1963. Some cool stuff in there. Here are some samples......

Check out the first response to your post! AFM and CTS. My 83 gave me 7 weeks of the same thing you just went thru. I purchased the car as a non-running car for 3,000.00 after the PO spent 8,000.00 at 2 different shops trying to get it to run. This is the car and all I had to do was wash it. With there not being any way to test the actual ECU's in these cars it can be a difficult and frustrating road. Mine ended up being the ECU.

Thanks, now I feel OK with keeping the SUs and not dropping another $750 into the engine.

We are expected to get a good bit of rain and possibly some relatively high winds but shouldn't be too bad. I'll know more Saturday or Sunday

Looks like we may be wondering how @Patcon is now.

@dmorales-bello

Yeah, a lot of money! I wonder would a nice 55k miles (he's at 88555km last week.) euro version bring that too as these are also less made in euro version i mean? At the carwash.. Complete history, like 4th battery or so but original everything haha and also the exhaust!!. never driven in winter, i can prove this by all the registrations at our RDW!! if you look at it's reg. number you'll see all the winters since he was 5 yrs (in garage Nissan for 5 years..) For example the aircon or climate control is never refilled and never had a defect! It still works perfect after 30! years.. howcome? i start the car every 4-6 weeks!! VERY important for oil and for the clim.control!!!! (I can not emphasize how important this is!) Many papers with this car but few repairbills.. this car costed 173000 guilders in 1992.... pff it took about 5 years to sell in the netherlands haha.. for the same money you had a Porsche turbo.. so funny.. this i like more! Don't want no porsche on my drive! At his summer spot.. This one i have seen earlyer..

6,000 mile, one owner probably helped. And +373 pictures over the front page images. That is a lot of money though.

I see recent auctions for S30s have not been drawing the big numbers we saw over the past year or so. But today a low mile 300ZX twin turbo hammered at $95,000. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1991-nissan-300zx-twin-turbo-70/

I would not consider those webers an upgrade to the SU's! Even triples might not really be an upgrade. Properly tuned SU's can support a lot of motor Steve beat me to it...

I had the dual Webers on my 240Z when I first bought it. Andy Craig suggested I convert to SUs when I went to him to rebuild the engine 27 years ago. I agreed and never looked back. I think I sold the Webers about 18 years ago. When you consider a member over at Zcar.com got a Z into the 12 second range on SUs (https://www.zcar.com/members/norm-the-12-sec-dual-su-dude.1912/), I don't think the SUs are holding you back too much if they are in good shape and balanced properly.

Post a link to the bulbs you bought.

Lets hear from our Florida members on their status after the storm.

I'm not sure why so many people are obsessed with that. In about 40 years of driving, I can't ever recall seeing a need to use the dimmer.

Oops, Glad you got it figured out! Free/cheep is always a good fix.

Took off and then apart the old connector. Nothing loose nor viseably wrong. I had a quick disconnect AFM connector on the shelf from a long time ago. I was just too lazy to wire it in before. Wired in the new connector plugged the car all back up and it started up on the first crank. No surging, popping out the intake or exhaust, etc. Took it for a few mile test drive and drives like a dream all the way to redline:) Thanks again everyone for all the ideas and support! Glad it ended up being this over any of the dozens of other possibilities it could have been.

So let's agree NOT to post on each others' threads (and that includes Alan too) - OK ? Pax Britannica. 😊 I didn't understand until now the level of animosity you have towards me - someone you've never met and don't know.

Hi @kats, A place in Australia does the same kind of work and for half the price. https://www.dashboarddoctor.com.au/reskinning-and-restoration For LHD dashboards Hung Vu offers completely new remanufactured dash pads. @theguppies https://www.instagram.com/vintagedashes/?hl=en

Gentle Readers: Has no one else noticed that the current supply of Pick-Up Coils has gotten very dicey of late? In the course of this summer (Jun. and Aug.) I have purchased two such coils (from RockAuto), only to find that both were hopelessly inoperative. Both were sourced from Standard Products, and while both exhibited proper resistances (the only (short of oscilloscope exam) test promoted by the FSM), both were useless in actual operation. Of course, since the opportunity to test either occurred outside of the narrow "warranty" period, I've had to eat the cost of both, leaving me highly skeptical of Standard Products in specific and Rock Auto in general. Which leaves me to wonder; am I the only one to be in need of Pick-Up Coils, and if not, what are others doing in the face of this dearth of this part so necessary to proper ignition. I will note that the only thing that has allowed acceptable operation, has been the deployment of a No-Name, oddly configured coil out of a none-to-precise "rebuilt" distributor body purchased during my get-new-parts phase of problem-solving. So, again, what has worked for everyone else?

Carl is in Clearwater, not too far North of where the eye came ashore. Hopefully all is well.