Leaderboard

Maybe so, but the thread title might be seen by a potential DS customer who then doesn't take the time to read through all the posts to get to the truth. It's not fair to DS to have their brand tarnished for what was at most an unfortunate misunderstanding. The customer and DS should have done a better job detailing the expectations, but the customer should have never moved forward without funds in hand to pay. Hoping you have funds in 12 months is a recipe for failure which is what the end result was.

If my spare S20 goes into my HLS30-02146 , these racing parts will be assembled in the engine. The highlight of these parts is the Nissan Works titanium con-rod which was not listed on the sports option catalog . I don’t know this set of six con-rod was raced in a Works car or semi-works (private ) car , or even not assembled . Some one says not good for daily driving, because it primarily was for one chance victory , Alan will know more about it, please tell us what you know about . I sometimes feel I don’t want to assemble them because I will never see them again one by one after the engine completed. Kats

Kats, make sure to mount a dash camera with external microphone so you can capture the noise the engine makes with those rods installed, if you go that route.

Thanks Gavin, yes their products are outstanding! I already have one for Fairlady Z series in my hand , looks exactly as original from any angle. I just want to re-use the old dirty tank , but it is possible to have a new perfect reproduction tank for HLS30-02146. Kats

I moderate the zcar.com forum. When a new seller pops up with a list of stuff within hours after they join, I watch them like a hawk and warn members about paying before they receive any merchandise. When someone responds to a "parts wanted" post within minutes or hours of joining and offers the needed part, and especially if they say "contact my friend Bob, he has the part" I immediately delete the post and ban them. The Z-car forums seem to pull a LOT of scammers. I have no patience and no mercy.

That is just the start, as with the case of this OP took the next step and sent money for the parts only to have the person not answer back and no parts shipped. I know we all started at one point with no post and no feedback, you have to build a reputation of be an honest seller, If you just start scamming people, you'll be called out (like this thread). Then you change you name and start over.

Here you go @ETI4K! Each table is its own connector. I copied and pasted from my excel doc so hopefully theres no major formatting issues. A few of the colors didnt translate well but highlighting the cell makes it readable. I didnt mark what was removed though, although I'm sure its fairly easy to see 🙂 I did notice one connector where the colors of two cables look to be swapped (highlighted red) so I will double check that circuit. Lastly, I fused based on a quick google search, but I may be off in some cases. So far nothing is under fused as I havent had any pop. ECU 12 Pin ECU 12 Pin Checklist Working? PIN ECU SIDE ENGINE SIDE FUNCTION PIN ECU SIDE DASH SIDE FUNCTION Main power Yes 1 Green Orange Horn 1 Red Pink Switch Panel Power Starter Yes 2 Yellow Purple Reverse light power 2 Brown Brown Ignition Switch Fans Yes 3 Blue Blue Inspection light 3 White White Fuel Pump Switch Fuel Pump Yes 4 4 Blue Blue Fan Switch Ignition 5 Black Red Headlight negative 5 Light Green Light Green Low Beam Switch Low Beam Yes 6 Blue Blue Fan power 6 Blue Red Blue Red High Beam Switch High Beam Yes 7 Black/Blue Black/White Ignition 7 Blue White Blue White Cigarette Lighter/Map Lamp/Brake Switch Map Lamp Yes 8 Grey Grey Starter Solenoid 8 Green Green Black Horn Brake Lights Yes 9 Orange Pink High beam 9 Grey Grey Starter Switch Horn Yes 10 Brown Brown Headlight R 10 Blue Blue Water Oil Gauge Gauges Lights work 11 Light green Grey Headlight L 11 Red Green Turn signal switch power Reverse Light Yes 12 12 Green Green/Blue Running light switch power Parking Lights Yes Oil Pressure Tachometer Misc Connectors Gas Gauge 2 pin - Dash Engine Turn Signals Yes Pink White Main power Hazards N/A Purple Black Main relay Inspection Light 12V Radio N/A 2 Pin - Dash Engine Alternator Need internal regulator Yellow White Purple Thermostat Temp Green Green Temp Relay Power 1 Pin - Fuse Box Engine Black Black Ground Top Bottom Fuse Box 3 Pin - Body Dash Starter relay 10 amp High Beam Power 7.5 amp Switch panel 7.5 amp Green Red Green Red Turn Signal LH Gauge power 7.5 amp Cig lighter 10amp Green Black Green Black Turn Signal RH Fuel pump relay 15 amp Headlight Relay 7.5 amp Water gauge 5 amp Green Tellow Green Yellow Park Brake Light Reverse light 5 amp Fan relay 20 amp Ignition relay 10 amp Hazard 5 amp 4 Pin - Dash Engine Running light switch 10 amp Blue Light Blue Tach Signal Horn relay 5 amp Inspection light 3 amp Yellow Black Yellow Oil Pressure Turn signal switch 7.5 amp Green Black Blue Turn Signal RH Green Red Yellow Turn Signal LH 4 Pin - Dash Body Red Blue Red Blue Dimmer Yellow Yellow Gas Gauge Black Yellow Black Yellow Brake Switch Green White Green White Running lights 4 Pin - Fuse Box Engine Green Yellow Red Brake Switch Black Red Pink Reverse light XXX 12V Signal XXX Grey Alternator lamp Green White Orange Running lights 3 Pin - Fuse Box Body Blue Blue Hazard Power White Green Fuel Pump Power Black White Black Fuel Pump Ground 4 Pin - Dash Fuse Box Red White Light Green Headlight switch power Red Black Orange High Beam Black Blue Green Low beam Green Blue Gauge power edit: mobile site does not work well with this table! 😂 use your desktop if you want any readability

They're exploiting the community trust that comes with a forum. A lot of requests for parts are from new and occasional users, and when a "mikegreen008" pops up with a PM saying, 'hey, I've got what you need', they just trust, assuming they're the newbie and mikegreen008 is an established member of the community.

There is a trick, have someone with small hands do it for you 😆

Oh your hands gonna get jacked up. It might be easier to remove the window and tighten it up, maybe dab some thread adhesive. If you remove the window you get a shot at cleaning the rails too. If the rubber insulator is messed up between the mirror and the body it’s a great time to fix that too.

The other ZMEFLY thread is educational in that it shows that just because you hide what happens over here doesn't mean it stops happening elsewhere. The focus of the previous thread here was educating RabbitZ about how things are done in the automotive hobby world and about how Datsun Spirit was not a crook. Anybody who had questions about RabbitZ or about Eiji/Datsun Spirit could have read the thread and learned the truth. Now the truth has been buried. RabbitZ will probably continue on various other internet discussions to vent his frustration at Eiji and sully his reputation. Anyone reading or hearing the stories might do more searching and would have found the truth here on classiczcars.com. Not now. Burying the thread doesn't really help anyone. It just hides an uncomfortable situation.

I remember the whole James Burgess mess. I have no problem with the thread in question being deleted. I thought it should have happened a few pages sooner.

Excellent. Thanks for the closure write-up, and hoping the replacement AFM gets rid of the lean boot. At least you found something tangible! Let's hope that was it!

1970 Datsun 240Z Series I - $50k (concord / pleasant hill / martinez) I spotted this early 240Z (HLS30-02022) that has a matching numbers engine on the San Francisco Bay Craigslist. Looks to be a very solid California car. The badly faded blue carpeting is hideous, but that is an easy fix. The seller is asking $50k for the car. Here's the Craigslist link: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/concord-1970-datsun-240z-series/7446569044.html Watch on YouTube:

Edited - Disappointing. It was a good conversation. But it's Mike's forum at the end of the day. We just hang out here.

Did that Datsun Spirit stealing an engine thread get deleted. I can’t find it now and tried to post on it and it failed, I think it was deleted. That was the most insane thread I’ve read on here.

I must have missed this thread. I had no idea. I should call him.

I picked these vintage ones up years ago at a garage clean-out, and I'll never use them. They probably aren't what you're looking for, but you can't beat the price - cover the cost of shipping and they're yours.

Hi Kats, Reproduction fuel tanks can be bought here. https://s30.world/

Some good and some bad , I found the both tail lights are an early one (220-24152) which don’t have markings on the lens corner like other later ones . And they can be beautiful after some cleaning. The fuel tank is full of rust , needs to be replaced or cleaned. Kats

Hi Mike, that is a good question, we can think the Factory A/C was available from the beginning, I mean from Oct 1969 for Fairlady Z series. Because, the very first catalog listed the A/C as an option for S30 (Fairlady-ZL ) , and the Service Shuho ( service bulletins)which Alan posted is dated at Nov 1969 . Mike , I was wondering too , the book dated July 1970 . Why ? Then I red the Forward again . It says “ the car S30-C which is designated for this A/C has been installed the system in the assembly line . However, cars other than S30-C are going to have the A/C as an option, then installation must be done at dealerships. So please refer this book for your installation “ . This leads to me a picture in my mind like this , when S30 cars were introduced A/C system was not so popular. But gradually people tended to have it for their S30 ( Fairlady ZL ) after purchased . Even some people would have wanted on their S30S ( Fairlady Z ) or PS30( Z432) which were regarded as cars they “ can’t chose A/C “ on the catalog . To accommodate those cases , Nissan issued this book making the installation easier for dealership mechanics. I think like this , what do you think of it? About S30-C , I studied a little bit . In the Service Shuho , we see Nissan gave a specific variation code for the car equipped the A/C on S30 , that is S30C ( C stands for air-Con I think) . Type code ,classification code , these are the matter of Japan Motor and transportation ministry. And those are interpreted into specific numbers and they are indicated on the registration/certification paper . A variation code is Nissan in-house code thus not shown on the paper . Having the A/C in S30 had nothing to do with Type code and classification code , so no need to declare for amendments of the paper. ( if you swapped Engine, or changed length/ width etc that is going to be a subject of the amendments ) About S30-00002 , I don’t know when the car had the A/C, I am very curious about it too . Kats

Hi Kats. Interesting that it is a rare manual. I got it on Yahoo Japan a few years ago and it wasn't very expensive. I got lucky I guess.. My 1970 Fairlady Z had an aftermarket AC system added in Japan before it was brought to the US in the mid 1970s. I wish it had the factory AC system. I'm sure that was a very rare option due to the cost. Do you think S30-00002 had the AC system when it was built? I recall a thread about that car years ago that said it had some later modifications on it when it was found. Maybe used as a test car? Was AC available as an option in Japan from the beginning of production? I believe the AC manual has a publishing date of 7/70 but I don't have it in front of me right now. -Mike Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

Hi Mike, where did you get the book ? I am so surprised that you have this copy which might be one of the rarest things I’ve ever seen. ( I had to buy a set of six books to buy just only this copy for 100000 JPY! I sold the other five books for 60000 JPY, so crazy expensive 😰) . Anyway , we will see how wonderful Nissan factory A/C for S30 series is . And interesting to operate! First , we need this face panel to have it in our cars. Kats PS : As you mentioned above, this A/C can’t be installed on Z432 series (PS30&PS30SB) , it is described in Forward. Literally, no you can’t. But That doesn’t mean “never “ because the system was designed for L-series engined car , however piping and assorted parts under dashboard area are nothing changed. So it is possible with some hand craft works for engine Bay Area . All the things in the system can be installed as they are , except compressor mount bracket, condenser ( need to be much smaller to avoid the air cleaner box and the coolant reservoir tank ) and the FICD (it was only designed for L-series) .I don’t know why Nissan quit making A/C for Z432 , but the A/C pulley for S20 is a good souvenir for us . Kats

Front lower edge of the drivers door appears to have problems. I don't see the seam at the doglegs in the rocker panels and that always makes me nervous. I agree with the others about getting it on a lift and looking around for evidence of rust or poor rust repairs

Looks like more Bondo on the bottom of the hood. Do yourself a huge favor and take it to a body shop with a lift. You might be surprised what you find.

Great progress today on engine bay prep. Here’s the drivers side frame rail before...in between...and after. I used Eastwood’s 2k epoxy primer (thanks for the tip Jim) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk