Leaderboard

Been working on the little details and getting very close to completion for the build. Drove the car around the neighborhood a little today. Once I get the back half of the exhaust made up and installed, I can dial in the carbs and rack up some more miles on the break in.

I’m need to work on my landings [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I live in NC and shipped a box them. When I was in San Diego for work I located them and went by to check them out. Zero prep required but they won’t remove paint. Contact is at the bottom of my last post . Here’s a link. http://www.anocotemetalfinishing.com/home.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think that he probably got some of that blue silicone hose at OReilly or Autozone.

No, 12V post is S, which would be the top of the T in your plug. Ignition key on is the vertical part of the T. I don't know which way that plug fits n the alternator so can't say which color is what. But, by your description, it looks backward. Here is an image from an 83 ZX Z, which used the S and L terminology. and Nissan used it in theri schematic. The T is upside down but that should be manageable.

I can't imagine anything but the urethane air dam being able to bend like that without breaking, so I'm assuming that's the urethane air dam. You need to just lay it out in the sun, since they're flexible they tend to fold them up to ship them.

I heard they were all damaged in Fed Ex cargo planes.

Same one. MSAa and everyone on planet earth is out of them. Waited 3 months for this piece of trash. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I looked for the Xenon air dams recently at Jegs. It doesn't look like they carry them anymore, at least for the Z car.

I got mine from Jegs. No problems and a good price.

Who here plays with photo software? What are your favorite effects?

Still i don't know what he's saying... oh whatever.. but then... Always weld them IN whatever you want to repair.. that way is a bit more work but it's rewarding to "not to see" the repair you did.

That's some crack in the pump case; I can see why you want it off. I can't help but wonder how long the engine has been sitting; from the look of it, it's been a while. With that in mind, here's a thought... Remove the bottom plate and see if the rotors are free and loose. It might help things if one could remove the bogey rotor. Withdrawal may be hindered by gunked/junked up drive gear engagement and/or a gummy bushing and/or poor conditions in the bore the shaft runs in. With that in mind, it would seem worth the effort to pull the distributor and fill the open bore with your favorite thin rust-buster and leave it overnite to steep. Bonus Luck points if the liquid makes it thru to the drive rotor. I would then be tempted to try a little rotation, tho I would favor providing some leverage for short, measured impacts as the applied force. At the same time, a little heat might add inducement. $.02 from the cheap seats.

I would think its like the other panels of the car, a couple of spot weld removers and a spot weld chisel (I like Lisle 51900) to start the party. I've been watching this guy remake a lot of panels by hand. It looks like he repairs the front cross member before moving onto the frame rails. Cross Member removal: Frame rail replacement:

I see what you did there.

So I got the missing hardware. It looks ok... These bits didn't plate The steering coupler also didn't plate but might have if I had strung a wire through it. The finish on this was very motly Some Clear zinc The finish on this wasn't stellar These also weren't as shiny or even as I would have hoped Overall it's ok and much of the hardware looks pretty good. At this point I'm just glad they found the hardware. That would have been really painful to have lost all of that yellow hardware

fyi, that pic of the liquid is in the same place the coolant would accumulate on mine when the front cover was leaking around where weep slot was located. this slot goes to a channel in the front cover that goes around the coolant flow passages between the block and front cover. Not saying these has ANY thing to do with you running issues, just an observation.

Agreed, it needs a different valence. I got a Xenon for mine, but I haven't pulled the trigger yet on the bumpers. I will do powdercoated to match my dark gray Panasport spokes.

Add me to the list of folks that doesn't think the 240z bumpers work with the 280z valence. Actually, I think the stock lower valence on both the 240z and 280z is kind of a miss. A replacement air damn or the BRE style spook air dam is a much better look. One more hot take: the placement for the turn indicators is better on the 280z than the 240z.

I kept the 280Z lower valence when I switched to early bumpers. I built a new lower grill out of a couple of spare grills. I drilled out the old rivets, stacked the extra bars, and pop riveted it all back together. Here's how it looks.

I did it in the beginning, but didn't like the protruding valence under the bumper. I'm with @cgsheen1 on the looks. I decided to go with the 240Z air-dam and 240Z indicators under the bumper.

I have this one from Vietnam on the rear, SS and a pefect fit. They have choices of with or without rubber. http://bumperautomobile.com/

No one, I hope... Just me, but I really don't like the 280 "bulb" valence with the 240 style bumper - screws with the line of the headlight bucket. To my eye, the bumper above is also too "high and tight". It accentuates the bucket / valence offset rather than minimizing it if it were a bit lower and protruded a bit farther. Well,,, You asked!

She’s alive! Didn’t take much to bring it to life. Slight rattle from the resonator in the background. A part from that sounds healthy, good oil pressure and no leaks. Few tweaks and she’ll be able to move under her own power and begin the break in process.

Few updates over the weekend. Cleaned up the ash tray on the Z. Was very fortunate this wasn’t broken in a million pieces. test fitted the muffler and mounting brackets. Fit looks great. Got the air cleaner finished up and installed. Few more routings jobs left and the engine bay will be buttoned up. I also pulled the steering rack out and swapped out the U-joints. Didn’t realize the slop there was in them until after the column was reinstalled. Now it’s as tight as a drum.

Couple details updated on the Z. Working on the exhaust system now, should have that wrapped up soon. For now, much of the body has been reassembled. New/replated hardware used throughout, and picked up an excellently restored set of side marker lights and license plate light from @jfa.series1. Original turn signal housings received a deep cleaning, lens polished, and new hardware sourced.

Cliff, you mean the Xenon? Wait until you see mine. It’s worse than terrible. New out of the box from the factory. I’m pissed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good discussion and timely for me. I recently bought the xenon front air dam. Bought it direct from Xenon and I’m so disappointed I don’t have words . It’s not even usable. It so warped that it’s unusable. It has flaws all over it. I’d avoid this product like Covid-19. I’ll post pics of this garbage later. My stock lower valance is banged up so I started looking for alternatives. I think I may have found it and might be something you like. I think it’s was used on the European 260’s. Take a look at these pics. Wish I had better one but this is probably what I’m getting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk